edwintklee

iTrader: (23)

some details photo about HPI switch....after looking....hmm....still prefer my M03

http://translate.google.com.my/trans...&sl=auto&tl=en

niznai

I think that's actually what's going on in those pictures too.

tony gray

iTrader: (7)

All they did was confirm what we told everybody 6 weeks ago...and also confirmed by Grahoo-san.

If you paid good money for a Switch, this what you'd be doing now..

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Mini battery question: I'm looking at two different lipo batteries for my mini. One is rated at 20C and the other is rated at 25C.

In a mini using a plain old silver can, will this have any effect at all? I suspect not, because a silver can won't draw nearly that much power anyway.

Or am I missing something?

Jim

Skitee

You should see no performance difference with the silver can.

MTX3-B

iTrader: (5)

any difference with a bigger capacity?

edwintklee

iTrader: (23)

i guess....its will stay "power" for longer period if using higher capacity battery.

MTX3-B

iTrader: (5)

how much more capacity would it take? assuming 3200 20C vs. 4000 20C. for a 5 minute racing, would u feel any noticeable differences in "power" for high turn motors such as those of silver cans & sport tuned?

thanks

edwintklee

iTrader: (23)

tony ...you probally mean should be doing this..

edwintklee

iTrader: (23)

hey...hang lipo...

frankly i really dunno, i only know that IB4000 25c lipo very punch and have good top end as compare to yeah racing 3200....also max power 4400 lipo also quite good...all about was tested on a same car, same tyre, same motor(HB13t)

MTX3-B

iTrader: (5)

so i can safely assume that for high turn motor applications (relatively low amp draw), higher capacity LiPo will be advantageous since a higher capacity battery would be able to withhold the voltage a lot longer period of time?

i couldnt gauge the actual performance vis-a-vis the 3200 vs. 4000 as the 4000 battery is relatively new and the other one is almost a year-old. but it would be nice should the difference is not that significant as one would save by opting for the lower capacity batt. Yeah Racing is one mighty pack if it is new.

Old Tech

iTrader: (3)

I'm dusting off an old M03 chassis that had only been driven "slow in the driveway" (to quote a famous movie) and trying to bring it up to race spec. It has full bearings, and at one point I did buy the aluminum c-hubs and uprights for it. I never did get a ball diff or oil filled shocks. I started to read through this thread, but getting through over 600 pages! So, let me just ask.

1) What is the difference between the TA03 and Manta ball diffs, and which is the preferred to use in the M03 chassis?

2) What is the shock of choice for the M03 chassis? I see there is now availalbe an "M-Chassis" Damper set. Is this the way to go?

The car will be run on a carpet track with a failry defined groove.

Thanks

OT

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

The Manta ball diff is heavier.

Your best bet for dampers are the Tamiya Mini CVA ones. They're very good, made of plastic and affordable. If you want to get something aluminum and don't want to spend money, 3Racing makes a good set for about $20 (usd). If you've got money to spend, then Tamiya does make alloy dampers for the M chassis.

Given a choice, I'd take one of the first two options. I have to admit though, the Tamiya aluminum dampers are nice.

jmhub1979

iTrader: (1)

Is it worth my time/money to invest in a ball diff? Any performance advantages?

Old Tech

iTrader: (3)

Thanks MR. Don't mind saving a few bucks at all.

jmhub1979, not sure how much improvement there'll be with the ball diff. My gear diff is surprisingly smooth and free, actually.