Moole

hi all

here are some pics of my first mini...

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

Hyde

iTrader: (1)

the rear uprights have two holes. one for 0 camber, and the bottom hole for camper[not sure about much dagree of camber sorry] i set the car up with added rear camber from the firs time i built it. I DO think it makes a HUGE difference. then proper tires tires makes the car dialed.


the m03r is all around a very good car. all tamiya hopups so the car is ready for an all tamiya track

Core Creations

iTrader: (108)

For carpet I put 5mm front internal spacer in the shock and 3mm in the rear. Thats with the standard TRF shocks. If you use the new M-Chassis version TRF shocks you will use much less spacer wise.

In mine and several other local mini racers opinions the sways are a must on carpet. If the car is setup right it makes a HUGE difference. As do other small things...but I am only allowed to tell so much.

Low_E

are the black swaybars the stiffest?
(That's what they seem to me)

BILKO1

Hi , i've just got a mini pickup bodyshell and was wondering how you mount the shell at the rear as the standard tamiya mounts are shaped and too long.

ChattyMatty

I'm gunna pick up one of those bodies, and Patrick has mentioned the issue but I have never heard how to solve it. I was assuming these would do:

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=50855

Core Creations

iTrader: (108)

No the black swaybars are the softer of the two. I use the blacks most of the time. You can use them to tune a little from there. If the rear is too planted you can run the silver rear. And if the front seems to dump over too much you can use the silver front.

A couple carpet tips:

Glue the sidewall on the front tires. This will reduce the rollovers.
Start with 70wt oil 2 hole pistons in the front with a 5mm internal spacer. I'd start with a Blue short front spring and tune from there.
Dump the car low...like 2-3 mm max ride height.

In the rear I'd start with 50wt 2 hole pistons and yellow short springs(TRF Shocks) and a 3mm internal spacer. Ride height about 0.5mm higher than the front. A safe tire combo is S-grips up front and A slicks in the rear.

Hyde

iTrader: (1)

yep those would work perfect. or you could mod some tc3 rear ones or even maybe straight ta03 posts

BILKO1

[QUOTE=ChattyMatty;5568201]I'm gunna pick up one of those bodies, and Patrick has mentioned the issue but I have never heard how to solve it. I was assuming these would do:

Looks like they would work i'll try and get some.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Try a set of M-03 front body mounts on the rear. I did with a body that was too low and it worked. Don't know for sure if it would work for you, but it's worth a shot.

Jim

[QUOTE=BILKO1;5568311]

sidecarphil1

iTrader: (1)

i used TL-01 rear posts

fits loverly

axle182

iTrader: (18)

OK ill post up my setup that worked pretty darn well at the local big race last weekend. M03R kit.

Front -
Tires - S grip Radials
Insert - Hard tamiya foam - no double stuffing
Tire Sauce - Niftech - Inside first line of radial blocks, no more
Ride - level lower arms or go higher, try the feel
Springs - Blue short springs
Shocks - TRF Mini shocks, setup as instructed for the M03
Toe - dead ahead at ride level
Ball diff - TA03 tight as i could get it (still a little diff action)
Camber - Fixed Links

Rear -
Tires - Type A slicks
Insert - Hard tamiya foam - no double stuffing
Tire Sauce - Niftech - Full
Ride - as low as you can go before dragging.
Springs - Red short springs
Shocks - TRF Mini shocks, setup as instructed for the M03 (double check you have MINIMAL droop)
Toe - M03r rear uprights - 1.5 deg
Camber - roughly 1.5 deg at ride level

Other mods, i placed a TONNE of lead in the bottom of the rear compartment, not all the way to the back tho, and a big strip across the underside of the lipo, full width. electronics were placed ontop. My car was one of the heaviest. I could still traction roll if pushing way too hard, but it was FAST. I ran no sway bars, didnt touch the car at all during the entire weekend, i just tried a little more sauce on the front, and it started to traction roll more, so kept it to the first inside line of radial blocks. It was a little rocket, and it held TQ most of the weekend, even with my rusty driving. If i wasnt super rusty and shaking in the final, i think it would of done very very well. Started 2nd, and was 7th by the first corner, but caught back up to have an epic battle with 2nd place, ended up 3rd overall.

This was on medium grip carpet. I would have glued the sidewalls if the grip had of come up alot (if you have alot of foam cars at your race), but the current setup about was perfect. With a little more practice, i think we would have won it.

mach51

iTrader: (31)

I was thinking of getting an M03. I was looking at the M03R but from what I can tell it does not come with a body. So, it might be cheaper to get the base version that comes with a body and upgrade it? Id also rather have threaded shocks than clear shocks. Is there a list somewhere of what shocks do and do not fit these cars?

Hyde

iTrader: (1)

get the m03r. it comes with a huge amount of tamiya hopups. you could get a body and some nice tamiya alloy shocks for about 60.

if you get the m03 base model. you'll have to pay about 150 for everything the m03r has and you'll still have to buy alloy shocks.

another thing to think about.... if you want a stock car for cheap get the m03.

if you like easter egg hunts and you wanna hunt for tamiya hopups then get a stock m03 and start hunting!

its way more cheaper to buy a m03r if you want a hopped up mini.

NOTE: the blue alloy bling the m03r comes with makes this car stronger and it has more adjusting points on the uprights and other cool little stuff. also its "cool looking" lol

m03=big bang for you're buck
m03r=HUGE bang for the buck