Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Tamiya mini cooper >

Tamiya mini cooper

Like Tree288Likes

Tamiya mini cooper

Old 01-03-2009, 11:27 PM
  #8056  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (7)
 
tony gray's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Posts: 3,549
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

Yet virtually every single major race down our way in 2008 has been won by a SWB....

Feel free to believe what you want, but we still say it makes NO DIFFERENCE.. Hee hee

Actually, I'll quantify that - it MAY make some difference to your perception of how the car handles (i.e. it may feel easier/harder to drive) but it does NOT make the car any quicker/slower.
tony gray is offline  
Old 01-04-2009, 12:52 AM
  #8057  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (8)
 
Drifting101's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Melbourne, Aus
Posts: 2,199
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by tony gray
Yet virtually every single major race down our way in 2008 has been won by a SWB....

Feel free to believe what you want, but we still say it makes NO DIFFERENCE.. Hee hee

Actually, I'll quantify that - it MAY make some difference to your perception of how the car handles (i.e. it may feel easier/harder to drive) but it does NOT make the car any quicker/slower.
YGPM
Drifting101 is offline  
Old 01-04-2009, 01:19 AM
  #8058  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (12)
 
xrayroooahhhh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: CALGARY
Posts: 792
Trader Rating: 12 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by k_h_d
The surface is carpet and smooth. So you put more than just the one spacer?

Here is a picture from rc-mini.net which shows the spacer I used. If after I add about 200g and my ride height is still not any lower then I will think about more spacers.

My toe is pretty neurtral.

Kenny
We roll our carpet out onto a tiled floor in a Bingo hall......so the only slight bump is the joint between carpet sections....if it's that smooth....slam it!!!

Now like Tony....and others suggest.....your driving style and the traction you get from the carpet are going to determine some of the set-up changes you make.....

someone suggested to use CA on the sidewalls of the tires....I've never done that.....I understand the idea but why wouldn't you just find a front tire that washes out a little on it's own.....if that's the principle? (I'm sure someone would like to answer!!)

The most important part Kenny is that you have joined the rest of us in this mystical.....magical.....adventure most of us call Mini!!! Don't worry we'll save you a room in the sanitarium down the hall from Tony, Jim and myself!!!!

R
xrayroooahhhh is offline  
Old 01-04-2009, 04:52 AM
  #8059  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
 
raycerZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Posts: 220
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by tony gray
Yet virtually every single major race down our way in 2008 has been won by a SWB....

Feel free to believe what you want, but we still say it makes NO DIFFERENCE.. Hee hee

Actually, I'll quantify that - it MAY make some difference to your perception of how the car handles (i.e. it may feel easier/harder to drive) but it does NOT make the car any quicker/slower.
Maybe it's the aero quality of the Swift rather than the wheelbase? Some tracks in Japan allow only the SWB chassis and I wish ours would do the same.
raycerZ is offline  
Old 01-04-2009, 06:19 AM
  #8060  
Tech Regular
 
Low_E's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Flanders, Belgium
Posts: 361
Default

Originally Posted by xrayroooahhhh
...
someone suggested to use CA on the sidewalls of the tires....I've never done that.....I understand the idea but why wouldn't you just find a front tire that washes out a little on it's own.....if that's the principle? (I'm sure someone would like to answer!!)
...
Because we are limited to Tamiya-tyres in our Tamiya-competition and look for a maximum of traction in the front, but the CA just limits side-ways traction a bit and thus eliminates grip roll
Low_E is offline  
Old 01-04-2009, 06:44 AM
  #8061  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (108)
 
Core Creations's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Back in the booth
Posts: 6,284
Trader Rating: 108 (100%+)
Default

You CA the walls because the sidewalls are the reason the car rolls....not the contact patch. You want all the forward momentum and steering the softer tire gives without the rolling the softer sidewall creates. And you can use a firmer insert to stiffen the sidewall, but you will still roll on high bite carpet.

On asphalt things are different.
Core Creations is offline  
Old 01-04-2009, 07:48 AM
  #8062  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 538
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

I was reading this... and thought that one would still require the step screws and ball nut connectors. Wouldn't the TAM53303 TL01 adjustable arm kit with a set of 4 10mm turnbuckles would do the job for all 4 ends? What do you guys think?

Originally Posted by TryHard
Hey guys,

I noticed a while back some posting about the "ring of death" that occurs on the mini front tyres with the standard links, and if there's any way to stop it. Well, I thought I'd pass on this tip given to me a while ago.

Basically, you make some adjustable upper links for the front of the car
What you need are;
TAM53892 3x10mm turnbuckle shaft
TAM53662 TT01 turnbuckle tie-rod set

Then you need to take the 4 of the 5mm connectors from the TT01 set, and remove from the end 3mm of material. Then thread in the 10mm turnbuckles, and waa-la, you have a very short adjustable upper link. Set the overall length of the link to 24mm, and you'll still have a ~1 negative camber when the car is on the ground, although this can be altered a little if you cut off more of the connector joint. Then just mount the link up using the ball connectors supplied in the TT01 set, and your good to go. (pic 1)

Having the longer front link removes most of the negative camber present on the front, this is pretty much the big contributor to the very biased front tyre wear. I've attached a pic showing how the my new front S-Grips are wearing... with the normal setup, you'd expect most of the inside treads to be worn. However, with the longer front link, the wear is smack down the middle of the tyre

Another good thing is this aids forward traction, simply as the tyre is more upright when in use, meaning more the contact patch can be used for acceleration. A benefit for sure with a FWD. In my eyes though, the bigger benefit is the more even wear, so longer life from the tyres

Last edited by stocker; 01-04-2009 at 08:11 AM.
stocker is offline  
Old 01-04-2009, 01:41 PM
  #8063  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (38)
 
caltek1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,422
Trader Rating: 38 (100%+)
Default

stocker,

I have never tried the tip below, as it is against our mini rules. For club racing you may get away with it.

I am pretty sure that 3Racing have released a tie rod set that replaces all of the plastic moulded parts on a mini.

regards,

Calvin.

Last edited by caltek1; 01-04-2009 at 01:42 PM. Reason: xtra text
caltek1 is offline  
Old 01-04-2009, 04:32 PM
  #8064  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (2)
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 538
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Yeah, I saw that 3Racing has a set too, that includes the steering links as well. I suppose the links and ball connectors are fully compatible with Tamiya's?
stocker is offline  
Old 01-05-2009, 09:28 PM
  #8065  
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
 
edwintklee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: wonderfull place called, MALAYSIA.
Posts: 1,592
Trader Rating: 23 (96%+)
Default

Originally Posted by caltek1
k_h_d,



Make sure you turn your steering rate down on your radio. This should make the turning slower to react to your input. This will not affect your steering endpoints.

Regards,

Calvin.
please correct me if i am wrong, i know that controllers have D/R(dual rate) and EPA (end pointadjustments,)

on my 3pks, i notice its i reduce the D/R, the steering will be less.(is it similar to reduce epa??)
actually i still can figure out different between D/R and epa

which to reduce to reduce traction roll.

thanks in advance cal...

btw i am using 26mm hpi x pattern front and sorex 36r rear. running on asphalt track which its also shared by gp car on foam and other mini on foam.

Last edited by edwintklee; 01-05-2009 at 09:38 PM.
edwintklee is offline  
Old 01-05-2009, 09:39 PM
  #8066  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (35)
 
cannon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: A total distraction
Posts: 7,266
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

The idea on steering is as follows:

On a normal set up radio the steering is linear. That is you get equal steering response across the whole range of movement of the steering wheel.

For Minis, you need to reduce the steering rate to a negative exponential. That is , the movement of the steering is reduced for small movement either side of straight ahead. The steering rate increases as you turn more. This eliminates the twitchy feel around no steering input (straight ahead)

On KO radios it is called steering curve. I dont know on Futaba
cannon is offline  
Old 01-05-2009, 10:40 PM
  #8067  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
 
jonest's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Johor, Malaysia
Posts: 3,142
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by cannon
The idea on steering is as follows:

On a normal set up radio the steering is linear. That is you get equal steering response across the whole range of movement of the steering wheel.

For Minis, you need to reduce the steering rate to a negative exponential. That is , the movement of the steering is reduced for small movement either side of straight ahead. The steering rate increases as you turn more. This eliminates the twitchy feel around no steering input (straight ahead)

On KO radios it is called steering curve. I dont know on Futaba
negative by how much?? -10% or -15% or -20%
jonest is offline  
Old 01-05-2009, 10:42 PM
  #8068  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (35)
 
cannon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: A total distraction
Posts: 7,266
Trader Rating: 35 (100%+)
Default

I run -30% Makes for a smoother driving Mini
cannon is offline  
Old 01-06-2009, 03:45 AM
  #8069  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (38)
 
caltek1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 3,422
Trader Rating: 38 (100%+)
Default 3PKS SETTING

edwintklee,

I use a KO Helios Ex-10 and am not that familiar with the 3PKS controls. I run mine at between -30 and -40% on the steering curve.

I downloaded the manual for the 3PKS and you need to go into the STEXP program and reduce that using the minus button. This will change the steering response time of the servo, conversly you can press the + button and make it faster. This does not change the EPA of your servo.

This information is on page 52 of your instruction manual.

jonest,

The amount you reduce the response time of the servo is up to you and your driving technique.

Regards,

Calvin.
caltek1 is offline  
Old 01-06-2009, 11:01 AM
  #8070  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
 
monkeyracing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 6,305
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Tony, pal, help me out here! I'm a little confused about some of the race set-ups listed on rc-mini.

I thought the usual convention was to run harder springs up front, and softer springs at the rear. I noticed in the race set-ups, it was consistently soft front and hard rear.

What's up with that? Did I not get that memo?

Jim
monkeyracing is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.