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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 12-20-2008, 02:00 AM
  #7921  
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Originally Posted by cannon
The blue alloy horn replaces the part of the hi torque servo saver that wears out. And is the correct length for the Mini
Oh, I thought the part that wears out is the part that connects to the servo output gear. I see Tamiya also has one for the touring car as well, but sure is costly...
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Old 12-20-2008, 02:02 AM
  #7922  
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stocker,

The Hi torque servo saver used to flog out where the three springs used sit against the plastic. On the new aluminum horn this is moulded into the part which has made it stronger. I don't really want to remove from the car, but the only parts used from the original Hi torque servo saver are; the servo adaptor plate, the three springs and the front retaining mount.

The new aluminum horn, comes with two blue anodised 5mm ball studs and four 5mm half cup adjusters.

So far I have nudged a few boards with no signs of wear or slippage on the servo.

BTW,

The tyres fitted to the front of the mini are the control tyres to be used at TITC for the mini event in Feb next year. These had seen three heats at my local track and showed signs of beading. Also attached other photos.

Regards,

Calvin.
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya mini cooper-dsc01491.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-dsc01493.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-dsc01494.jpg  
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Old 12-20-2008, 03:44 AM
  #7923  
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Originally Posted by caltek1
stocker,

The Hi torque servo saver used to flog out where the three springs used sit against the plastic. On the new aluminum horn this is moulded into the part which has made it stronger. I don't really want to remove from the car, but the only parts used from the original Hi torque servo saver are; the servo adaptor plate, the three springs and the front retaining mount.

The new aluminum horn, comes with two blue anodised 5mm ball studs and four 5mm half cup adjusters.

So far I have nudged a few boards with no signs of wear or slippage on the servo.

BTW,

The tyres fitted to the front of the mini are the control tyres to be used at TITC for the mini event in Feb next year. These had seen three heats at my local track and showed signs of beading. Also attached other photos.

Regards,

Calvin.
What front wheels are those?
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Old 12-20-2008, 06:24 AM
  #7924  
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Originally Posted by stocker
Is the quick release battery holder #53346 useful other than a quick release? Does it keep the battery in place better (stronger)?
Originally Posted by Drifting101
It is stronger because when you get hit from the side it doesnt bulge out wards
I got the part, but it seems a little too short for my YR 3200 lipo... looks like I have to shim the fixed end maybe 6mm or so? It fits when I'm using the plastic pieces on the widest setting on each end...

Help, anyone uses the part with Lipos?

Last edited by stocker; 12-20-2008 at 04:36 PM.
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Old 12-20-2008, 07:44 AM
  #7925  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
Steering servo I read something this morning about someone using a mini servo in an M-03. I've tried this, but the servo is too small to reach between the two mounting points. Any ideas how I might accomplish this one? I thought about just building an adaptor of some kind, but haven't actually tried it yet.

Any ideas you guys have would be appreciated.

Thanks!
Turn the mounting blocks inwards,so that the back of it is facing the servo, you'll have to drill new holes(use four screws); this gives a little extra reach. Also, extend the oblong hole in the right hand plate inward to get the rest of the way.
I've used the Hitec 235AG(same case as the 225) in my mini with no problems.
I use the Kimbrough large servo saver, never had any problems with it & no need to assemble an expensive solution to Tamiya's inability to make a decent servo saver.
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Old 12-20-2008, 09:09 AM
  #7926  
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You da king! Thanks. I'll give it a try.

My point in this exercise is to reduce the amount of weight that high up on the car. Every little bit helps.

Jim
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Old 12-20-2008, 01:15 PM
  #7927  
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oldrcer,

The front tyres are Ride, non belted, temp range unknown. These will be used as the control tyre at TITC in Thailand in Feb 09. I ran these at night on an indoor track with a abrasive surface. They have the standard foam insert fitted.

I believe to fit these front and back, the rears would need to be sauced.

Regards,

Calvin.
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Old 12-20-2008, 03:36 PM
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Thanks caltek1!
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Old 12-20-2008, 05:24 PM
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I'll go with Calvin here, the Alloy servo saver piece is spot on. I've been using a similar part on my 416 for ages with zero issues.... and then having had the servo saver probs with the stock part, decided to swtich over to this bit. Obviously, my mini was in need of some more blue bling...

Oh, and just finished my latest mini shell, a Corsair Ironboy... find some front body mounts for the rear deck now
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya mini cooper-dscf0729.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-dscf0721.jpg  
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Old 12-20-2008, 08:06 PM
  #7930  
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Originally Posted by stocker
I got the part, but it seems a little too short for my YR 3200 lipo... looks like I have to shim the fixed end maybe 6mm or so? It fits when I'm using the plastic pieces on the widest setting on each end...

Help, anyone uses the part with Lipos?
Check my solution to this....

http://www.cochesrc.com/foros/modifi...battery+holder

Tell me if you need me to translate it...

Hope it works...
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Old 12-21-2008, 01:20 AM
  #7931  
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What in the world is this....



And could there possibly be any more?

Click HERE to find out about the complete silliness of CARAVAN/TRAILER racing at our final race meeting for the year!
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Old 12-21-2008, 07:24 AM
  #7932  
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guys....

just wondering, if i were to use those standard touring TRF shocks, what should be the best shock sharf spacer size??

as for spacer material, better use plastic or rubber fuel pipe?

thanks in advance
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Old 12-21-2008, 02:01 PM
  #7933  
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edwintklee,

I would use the 5mm plastic spacers or two/three o rings. I find that the fuel line does not always cut straight and may not be equal in each shock.

My two cents,

Calvin.
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Old 12-21-2008, 02:29 PM
  #7934  
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I am looking to get into mini racing. I am trying to figure out which base model to start with to be most cost effective. I have read just about every available piece of information on rc-mini.net. What a great resource.

One thing I am a little confused on is which model to start with. There are several M03L options. I don't think I want to go with the M03R because after reading through rc-mini.net it sounds like it has a lot of upgrades which are not needed and will be more expensive. However, what is the difference between the two M03R models?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&FVSEARCH=m03r

I think the one I want to order is the 2006 Mini Cooper part number 58400. Is that the same thing as the LWB Mini Cooper that rc-mini.net recommends? Other than wheel base is there anything different about it than the M03M swift that the past threads have recommended?

One thing I do want is modern mini body to fit so I can finish it to look like my 2003 Mini Cooper S. So from research I think I need the M03L version.


Thanks,
k

Last edited by k_h_d; 12-21-2008 at 03:21 PM.
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Old 12-21-2008, 03:05 PM
  #7935  
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The MO3L or MO3M are the best kits to get. Both can be made into a short by removing the spacer. If you get the MO3L this can be made into a M by purchasing Tamiya F parts which come with the spacer, front and rear hubs as well as the C hubs. This is Tamiya PNo 51238.

The MO3R can be assembled as any of the wheel bases, due to the inclusion of the M and L extensions. The MO3R comes with all of the hopups, except for a ball diff and the shocks are brittle. If you have the money, these are great kits, however the standard kit with the ball diff and super mini CVA's are just as good.

The short wheel base,(210mm) has the option of more after market shells, than the medium(M 225mm ) and the Long(L 240mm). Some say the MO3L is more stable, less twitchy to drive than the short, but this comes back to car setup.

At the end of the day,the choice is yours. The M or L would be the pick.

Regards,

Calvin

Last edited by caltek1; 12-21-2008 at 03:10 PM. Reason: poor grammer
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