Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Tamiya mini cooper >

Tamiya mini cooper

Like Tree288Likes

Tamiya mini cooper

Old 06-26-2017, 04:05 PM
  #29296  
Tech Apprentice
 
Toyota Tom's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 63
Default Build notes M-07

A few notes from my build. The motor plate hole is too small for a
24 pinion. A round file fixes that issue. The left front chassis brace
won't allow a brushless motor, no room to solder the ESC wires. Left
that brace off. The stock plastic shocks use a 28 mm shock shaft. If you
are trying to use the short option shocks, they are not long enough.
You can use the long shafts from the kit, or use the front M-07 shock tower
on the rear, and for the front, I modified the M-05R rear graphite shock
tower for use on the front of the MO-7. In both cases, the shock tower's ball stud holes are about 2mm lower than the stock M-07's. Also the after market non-Tamiya 35 and 33 spur gears are a perfect fit. Although you don't have to split the chassis to work on the gears, You still have to disassemble the front of the car. The kit diff oil is not labeled but in the directions it indicates 100,000K. In any case, I used 30,000K. We will see how it runs next week.
Toyota Tom is offline  
Old 06-26-2017, 05:09 PM
  #29297  
Tech Adept
 
Laguna Bozo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Beach
Posts: 244
Default

Could you please explain what "after market non-Tamiya 35 and 33 spur gears" are?
Laguna Bozo is offline  
Old 06-26-2017, 05:18 PM
  #29298  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
 
gigaplex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Posts: 6,233
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Laguna Bozo
Could you please explain what "after market non-Tamiya 35 and 33 spur gears" are?
Third party spur gears with different tooth counts - stock is 37. Commonly referred to as speed tuned gears.
gigaplex is online now  
Old 06-26-2017, 06:18 PM
  #29299  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
 
monkeyracing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 6,305
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

The word you're looking for is "cheater" gears. I've got some nice delrin ones.

Build is going well. Bearings are filled with rendered hog fat out of the box. Sticky.
monkeyracing is offline  
Old 06-26-2017, 06:22 PM
  #29300  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Tustin,CA,USA
Posts: 420
Default

Originally Posted by howardcano
380 brushless motors tend to have less torque but more RPM than 540 brushless, which is exactly what a mini needs.
So this why the TA-05 M-four is the most awesome mini ever...
torg is offline  
Old 06-26-2017, 07:07 PM
  #29301  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
 
monkeyracing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 6,305
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by torg
So this why the TA-05 M-four is the most awesome mini ever...
Someone pass me the ban-hammer.
monkeyracing is offline  
Old 06-26-2017, 07:30 PM
  #29302  
Tech Adept
 
Laguna Bozo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Beach
Posts: 244
Default

Thanks guys for the "cheater" info. i didn't know the M07 gears were the same as 3/5/6.
Laguna Bozo is offline  
Old 06-26-2017, 07:48 PM
  #29303  
Tech Champion
iTrader: (2)
 
gigaplex's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Melbourne, VIC
Posts: 6,233
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Laguna Bozo
Thanks guys for the "cheater" info. i didn't know the M07 gears were the same as 3/5/6.
The spur is the same but the rest are different.
Laguna Bozo likes this.
gigaplex is online now  
Old 06-26-2017, 08:17 PM
  #29304  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (5)
 
nova2015's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 455
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Default

So if I've seen correctly elsewhere, a 20T pinion in the M07 gives same FDR as previous M-Chassis cars? I'm thinking of compatibility within the class with older cars.
nova2015 is offline  
Old 06-26-2017, 08:38 PM
  #29305  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
 
monkeyracing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 6,305
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by nova2015
So if I've seen correctly elsewhere, a 20T pinion in the M07 gives same FDR as previous M-Chassis cars? I'm thinking of compatibility within the class with older cars.
Yep. Difference of 0.01% That's less than tire wear.
monkeyracing is offline  
Old 06-27-2017, 11:10 AM
  #29306  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
eR1c's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,479
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

so w/ a 24t pinion the M07 should be much faster than the best M05's ...shoot, ..my M07 is on order and will not have it built for my next race. ...I know a few guys are already running the M07's at my track for our next race .... double rats
eR1c is offline  
Old 06-27-2017, 11:21 AM
  #29307  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (38)
 
dmcguire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 424
Trader Rating: 38 (100%+)
Default

I'm not sure if I missed it, but for TCS races, is there a pinion limit for the M07 to keep the playing field level with the M03 and M05?
eR1c and KA2AEV like this.
dmcguire is offline  
Old 06-27-2017, 01:16 PM
  #29308  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
KA2AEV's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Tottenville, NYC
Posts: 2,344
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by monkeyracing
Someone pass me the ban-hammer.
Here you can have mine, I have two of them and don't need both of them!

k_bojar likes this.
KA2AEV is offline  
Old 06-27-2017, 03:22 PM
  #29309  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
 
monkeyracing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 6,305
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by dmcguire
I'm not sure if I missed it, but for TCS races, is there a pinion limit for the M07 to keep the playing field level with the M03 and M05?
I think it's safe to assume TCS will limit the pinion to 20t max. It's very easy to check on the M07. The little hatch covering the pinion just pops right off.

Weird thing from my build - tried using the heavy duty rear axles, like you'd use on any other mini. They caused a very slight binding for some reason. I tried removing shims, different bearings, different set of he axles, etc, but the only way to get smooth axles was to run the kit ones. The funny part is I can't see any diffrence between the old and new. Weird.

MORE: Motor fitment is a bit of a pig. Ended up filing a little bit to make room for wires for Hobbywing 13t style motor. I'm guessing at some point, someone will come up with a replacement stiffener bar for that spot that's bent differently. Fitting the rear suspension mounts requires minor juggling abilities. Oh, the thing with accessing the gearbox by undoing 8 screws also requires popping off upper links, steering links, swaybar link and dampers. I think you could do some work with just the screws out, but it's tricky.

Still, I like this car so far. Nice plastics, stiff chassis. Still pondering shorty battery attachment.
dmcguire and miha like this.

Last edited by monkeyracing; 06-27-2017 at 11:44 PM.
monkeyracing is offline  
Old 06-28-2017, 06:38 AM
  #29310  
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Calif.
Posts: 92
Default

What body are you guys going to use for your MO-7s?
TheOtherBill is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.