JUNI

iTrader: (9)

Thank you again for sharing your setup. I did have one question how much droop do you have front and rear.

dmcguire

iTrader: (37)

Glad to help. Instead of using the droop screws, I set droop by shock length.

For the front, i used the long shock bottoms and outside hole on the arm. You measure from top of the shock too to bottom of the shock bottom (overall length of shock) and it was 62.9mm.

If you use the normal shock bottom and inner hole in the arm, set the shock to 56mm.

Rear is done the same, set at 56.5mm

How I really came to those numbers is, set your ride height with the shocks long, then tighten the bottoms until there is very little play in the spring on the shock. Adjust from there.

gabc

iTrader: (15)

Hi David, for the upright spacers, you wrote brass, may I know how many mm are these? I saw a pic of the M05 of another fast guy that I can't remember who, and he had brass spacers on his car that's looks at least 4mm tall. I wonder what these do for the car n where we could get them? Appreciate it!

Gab

dmcguire

iTrader: (37)

Hi Gab, you are right, those are what I meant. They are the tall brass ball studs that came with MO5 blue aluminum steering knuckles and the M03 cars. These here:
https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod...eK2RoCkKDw_wcB

These are the specific hardware parts:
https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/it...uct-id=9805825

I think if you're running the stock plastic m05 knuckles, you won't need them.

Raising and lowering that ball stud effects bump steer in the car. You want the steering turnbuckles flat at ride height. That should give you the most-neutral bump in/out on the car.

Core Creations

iTrader: (108)

M07 parts showing up on eBay...no kits yet though.

nova2015

iTrader: (5)

Has antone used the HPI Toyota Corolla Levin body (HPI-7213) on an M05? Saw these at my local and they look cool.

gabc

iTrader: (15)

Thanks very much David! That helps a lot.
I've just assembled my first mini which is a M05V2R, n i gotta say it's a very charming n lovable car!
I added 4mm to the stock uprights with spacers n this removed the bump steer in the stock setup. This increased the Ackerman also. I'll post some pics when I've the chance.

Will appreciate greatly if someone here has a starting setup for medium grip asphalt to share.

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

4mm is a lot to add. Out of the box, the M05 V2 R shouldn't really have much if any bump steer.

AM03GT

iTrader: (13)

They fit but they're a little narrow so you'll need to run 4-5mm hexes. I built a M03 for a friend a while back with this body.

dmcguire

iTrader: (37)

Gab, I have to agree with giaplex here, I would try without the spacers first if you're running the stock knuckles. The setup I posted should be a good start for medium grip asphalt.

Don't forget too, try playing with the exponential/curve of your steering as well as your dual rate on you radio. Often overlooked, but a huge item. And do circles and adjust your endpoints so that your car can turn the same diameter circle left and right. Will make the car feel much more consistent.

I know most know of this practice, but just in case, I follow these steps:

1. On the transmitter, set dual rate setting to maximum
2. Set trim so so that the car goes straight.
3. Set balance/endpoint left and right so that at max throw the servo is not straining or flexing parts.
4. Put the car sideways against a track board (wall, whatever) and do a half circle, put your foot where the car ends up.
5. Turn the car 180deg against your foot and turn towards the board doing another half circle.
6. Adjust your balance/endpoint until your circles are equal and the car sideswipes your foot and board in each direction, making sure the servo is not straining or flexing parts.

From there you have your maximum steering in the car, use dual rate to dial out as needed (less is often better). You shouldn't ever have to worry about over straining your servo or parts this way. I do this on EVERY car I have.

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

Been wondering when we'd start seeing stuff show up!

...and yes, end point adjustments are key and agreed often overlooked.

To be honest my M05 handles so well and I am literally doing so well with it that its hard to imagine the M07 performing better. I think I may get an M07 and take my time building it and just ride out the rest of this season w/ my M05.

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

Wow, there are eBay listings for many body parts for the M07 as well, including the chassis.

Okay,
sorry if this has been answered, but is the new M07 called the "M07 Concept" ...I had thought "Concept" was because it was not a final design. But I am seeing the word attached to the M07 moniker on many of the parts listed on eBay. -on the actual packaging of the products.

So its not just the "M07", but rather the "M07 Concept" ...is Tamiya attaching a name to the M series now? Maybe a future M08 can be called the "M08 Idea" or "M08 Consideration" ..or something along the lines of "concept"

OSherman

iTrader: (3)

I'm guessing similar to the NSX Concept bodyset.. All the Honda (Acura) Race Teams were able to enter a car based from a 'Production Car' that hadn't quite made it to production yet... RaceCar came before the Production car..


...or not.. could just be internal Tamiya-humor and/or pride as it is quite a step away from the 'convention' M-chassis we have grown to know..

tony gray

iTrader: (7)

Correct Tim. So many people make the mistake of panicking because the observable bump steer over the full length of travel looks alarming.
But...on track the car actually only uses about a 3rd of the available travel and the bump steer effect is inconsequential really.

Papi

I would say that Tamiya calls it "concept", because it differs from other chassis too much. It might be start of new line. But maybe, if M07 won't be succesfull, Tamiya releases another M07, with more traditional design