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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 03-06-2017, 02:50 PM
  #28756  
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Originally Posted by ruebiracer View Post
Thanks for this info Sosidge!
Can you explain a bit more the difference? I thought about reducing the rear toe to get more steering, but I also think, rear toe helps to warm up the rear tires especially on the first 3 laps and get a stable rear end...

Will definitely give your tip a try, as Ive lying around the plate for some time now, but never tried it so far!

Br,
Matthias
Easier to drive, more confident in corners, no noticeable loss of steering.
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Old 03-06-2017, 06:21 PM
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I always run the diff very loose in RWD cars. They tend to turn into drift cars when they have a tighter diff. There's AW grease in them, but only enough to coat everything.

I think if I chose to run RWD again, I'd likely get an M06 and run an aftermarket gear diff, or maybe a ball diff with ceramic balls.
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Old 03-06-2017, 09:09 PM
  #28758  
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Spent 2 hours for shimming these slops (arms, Upper arms, lingkage etc)
I think tamiya should remake formula for plastic casting material. they're really bad.
anyone have experience boiling these plastic, people say it will make it more durable ?
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Old 03-06-2017, 10:28 PM
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Shimming the slop out makes most most Minis virtually undriveable.....
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Old 03-07-2017, 01:21 AM
  #28760  
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The only places that you really need to shim are the steering posts and between the hex and the bearings on the 4 axles.
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Old 03-07-2017, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
I always run the diff very loose in RWD cars. They tend to turn into drift cars when they have a tighter diff. There's AW grease in them, but only enough to coat everything.

I think if I chose to run RWD again, I'd likely get an M06 and run an aftermarket gear diff, or maybe a ball diff with ceramic balls.
I can't speak to the M04, when I had one 10 years ago.. I had no idea how to set up an RC car.

I do however have a lot of experience with racing the M06. In my opinion, common mistake is a loose diff. It is not an F1 car.

I have always ran the M05 ball diff and on asphalt I had the diff screw backed out somewhere between 1/4 and 1/8 if memory serves me well.

I presently run on high grip carpet the tighter the diff, the higher the corner speed.

This week I started to prepare the car for upcoming tcs race and on the hairpin I could hear the car diffing out a little bit, so I tightened the diff even further and wheel spin was gone.

If you ever do decide to pick on up, PM me for tips.. will gladly help out.
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Old 03-07-2017, 11:37 AM
  #28762  
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I have an M-05 Tamiya Ball Diff question.
Is it possible to purchase the Tamiya Ball Diff Gear by itself instead of buying the whole set again?
I accidentally ruined mine and I don't want to buy the whole set again...
Thank you in advance...

EDIT:

Found it...
https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/prod....asp?p_id=8765

thank you...
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Last edited by unwritten; 03-07-2017 at 11:50 AM.
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Old 03-08-2017, 12:18 AM
  #28763  
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Does anyone know how much longer to build the dampers when using the optional outer lower mounting points? I build to 55mm normally.
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Old 03-08-2017, 01:11 AM
  #28764  
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Our local Tamiyacup organization was very quick with their reply to the Yeah racing diff:
https://sites.google.com/site/betami...greglementmini

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Old 03-08-2017, 03:25 AM
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Originally Posted by ErikJan View Post
Our local Tamiyacup organization was very quick with their reply to the Yeah racing diff:
https://sites.google.com/site/betami...greglementmini

Huh, I didn't realise it had a different number of teeth. Has anyone tried it out and checked how well it meshes?
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Old 03-08-2017, 10:41 AM
  #28766  
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If anyone is around the Carolinas this weekend and wants to race their minis there will be a great race at Bush River Raceway in Columbia, SC

https://www.facebook.com/events/978761328896357??ti=ia
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Old 03-08-2017, 01:57 PM
  #28767  
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Originally Posted by gigaplex View Post
Huh, I didn't realise it had a different number of teeth. Has anyone tried it out and checked how well it meshes?
Hmm, even I didn't pick that up. So essentially that makes it completely useless in 99% of competition! That's a real dumb arse decision from Yeah Racing and they've effectively reduced their potential market to zero.
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Old 03-08-2017, 01:59 PM
  #28768  
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Originally Posted by gigaplex View Post
Huh, I didn't realise it had a different number of teeth. Has anyone tried it out and checked how well it meshes?
Oh, that is interesting, did also not spot the difference!

@ Erik Jan: Are you allowed to use any aftermarket diffs in the cup?
Just asking, because there is a special prohibition for the Yeah racing one...
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Old 03-08-2017, 02:19 PM
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I wonder how the gear mesh is going to work. Did they just make the teeth a little longer? I'm guessing these will get banned from a lot of race series, but who's gonna do the tech?

Anyway, about that shock length question...
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Old 03-08-2017, 02:48 PM
  #28770  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
I wonder how the gear mesh is going to work. Did they just make the teeth a little longer? I'm guessing these will get banned from a lot of race series, but who's gonna do the tech?

Anyway, about that shock length question...
Hi Jim,
last carpet race I ran outside front and rear, Front shocks with long ball pin 64mm from outside to outside measured, rear 60mm with short ball pin.
Not sure, if I used longer piston rods in rear to achieve the 60mm, though.

Br,
Matthias
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