gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

At least there's a carbon rear shock tower option that matches.

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

Our club voted to continue allowing any 21.5t roar approved motor in our mini class.

So, that means I am selling my NIB Sonic Reedy 21.5 TCS spec motor which I purchased last season in anticipation of us following TCS rules. The motor has never been used/never taken out of the box.

Look for it in the classifieds or PM me if interested.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...21-5-spec.html

RevolutionM

iTrader: (1)

What are peoples thoughts on adding a rear or rear and front sway bars to an M05 and what are the benefits and tuning aids offered. Also with the way the rear sway bar just lays in between the chassis and cover plate and isnt tight will this offer any benefit?

Mini35

Think you mean the 996 911 (the boring one) on the M02L chassis. We have one that comes out on vintage nights at our club. It has absolutely comedy amounts of body roll but goes round the track very well.

Mini35

I run a rear medium bar on mine originally because full size FWD car theory said it'd make the front tip into corners more enthusiastically. In practice it's only really made the rear end more planted but I'm happy with it. I found running both took off what steering I had. The bar isn't meant to be clamped tight so the rear fit isn't a problem. Side to side wiggle is taken care of by the chassis being wide enough to pin it in place.

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

I've run the sway bars front and rear on and off and just rear ...currently I've settled on no sway bars front or rear. I don't feel it makes much a difference w/ my setup. ...I suppose w/ various setups it may make more/less of a difference in handling.

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

I also tried those swaybars on my m03, and took them off fast....

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

The swaybar on the rear (in our club racing situation) tends to make the rear rotate a little easier. We also often run rock hard springs and kit tires on the rear, as they're a little slicker than S or M Grips.

rccartips

iTrader: (3)

Effects of swaybars is noticable on track even if sloppy fit. Makes my mini easier to drive

Raman

iTrader: (94)

Can someone direct me to a link or post on how to make the TA03 ball diff as tight as possible.

I have tightened mine as far as it will go and secured it with thread lock. I'd like to have it even tighter of possible.

I have done my research and have treid some suggested tricks but nothing I have tried has made it tighter so far.

tony gray

iTrader: (7)

We're baaaaack...

https://www.facebook.com/rcmini.net/

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

Have you cleaned off all the grease and used AW grease instead? I've also heard that removing one of the smaller cone washers lets you tighten it a bit more.

Tim K

Have you tried replacing the thrust bearing with a normal 1150 sealed bearing?
The rest of it is built as per instructions, just replace the bearing. That's usually too tight for most people.

gigaplex

iTrader: (2)

Don't you also need to lose one of the large clam shell washers? Oherwise it presses down on the seal rather than the inner race, and becomes more like a glorified bushing.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

You could always run the 3mm delrin bushing Tamiya makes for this purpose. You'll end up with something very close to a slipper spool. The bushings replace the diff balls and allow you to run as tight as you want.

https://www.tamiyausa.com/product/it...oduct-id=54424