Tamiya mini cooper
Tech Adept

Hi, I am looking for a solid, easy and fun car to drive on road a bit everywhere, mostly at the carpet indoor track around here. I already own and race 1/8 ebuggy and 1/10 touring cars. These are awesome but I would like to build a new kit and practice with it in the spare time, without worrying about set up, sauce, breakages, tons of equipment etc...
I thought a fwd or rwd simpler model would do the trick. I noticed this lovely m3/m5 chassis and I like Tamiya.
I wonder then if these model cars are fun to drive "no stress" as they look beautiful. Opinions?
I thought a fwd or rwd simpler model would do the trick. I noticed this lovely m3/m5 chassis and I like Tamiya.
I wonder then if these model cars are fun to drive "no stress" as they look beautiful. Opinions?
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)

Thanks for the replies. I figure I pretty much can't go wrong with the Tamiya ones and I'll probably heat shrink them to be extra sure they don't come apart. The only downside is they don't appear to be spring steel. None of my other axles are other, so I think it'll be fine.
Let that R collect dust, Scott. You've got enough runners...except for the one Walter tweaked for you.
Let that R collect dust, Scott. You've got enough runners...except for the one Walter tweaked for you.

Hi, I am looking for a solid, easy and fun car to drive on road a bit everywhere, mostly at the carpet indoor track around here. I already own and race 1/8 ebuggy and 1/10 touring cars. These are awesome but I would like to build a new kit and practice with it in the spare time, without worrying about set up, sauce, breakages, tons of equipment etc...
I thought a fwd or rwd simpler model would do the trick. I noticed this lovely m3/m5 chassis and I like Tamiya.
I wonder then if these model cars are fun to drive "no stress" as they look beautiful. Opinions?
I thought a fwd or rwd simpler model would do the trick. I noticed this lovely m3/m5 chassis and I like Tamiya.
I wonder then if these model cars are fun to drive "no stress" as they look beautiful. Opinions?
Tech Rookie

For the money the "R" was the best kit ...I never picked one up as I never thought it would have been a limited edition. Plus I have an M05 (which I've upgraded from M05, to vII to pretty much an r). But thought it would be fun to build another.
Speaking of,
has anyone driven an M06, how does it compare to the M05? I get its rear wheel, -does the rear want to spin out like an f1? I've seen some interesting vid's w/ M06's beating M05's on YouTube. I've always assumed the M05 was the better handling and performing car ...is that assumption still true?
I do think the M06 has an interesting looking design, which appears to have a lower center of gravity (than the M05)
Speaking of,
has anyone driven an M06, how does it compare to the M05? I get its rear wheel, -does the rear want to spin out like an f1? I've seen some interesting vid's w/ M06's beating M05's on YouTube. I've always assumed the M05 was the better handling and performing car ...is that assumption still true?
I do think the M06 has an interesting looking design, which appears to have a lower center of gravity (than the M05)
I have the car set up as a LWB w/ beetle body on it. Running gear it has a Tekin 21.5 w/Hobbywing 60a ESC. The car handles very well. I am wanting to put a 13.5 in it. I think it handles better then my mo5proV2 with a 10.5.

I pulled the ball diffs out of my TA03 last night to see if I can get them running smoothly for my mini. They were always pretty crunchy, even when brand new. I tried installing a standard 1150 bearing in place of the thrust bearing as has been suggested a while ago, and it felt pretty smooth, so I guess both my thrust bearings were duds. One thing I noticed though while trying the standard 1150 bearing, is that the large Belleville washer isn't large enough to rest on the outer race of the bearing. It presses on the rubber seal instead. No wonder the bearing didn't last long for the guys who tried it.
Any suggestions for a better alternative to the 53136 thrust bearing?
Any suggestions for a better alternative to the 53136 thrust bearing?

Ceramic balls. It'll be smooth forever.
Tech Adept

I saw the M05 v2R. Is it worth the extra money compared to the regular or the Pro?
Plus, can such tiny frame take brushless and LiPo power? What could be a nice electronic setup to power it?

As for brushless and lipo, yes it can handle it. The M03 and regular M05 need rounded sport lipo packs, but the M05 v2 variants can take standard rectangular ones. For brushless motors, most people use a 21.5T sensored motor (17.5 would probably work too), or a 3000kV sensorless system such as the Hobbywing 13T ezRun combo. I'd recommend the ezRun if you're not racing at a track that specifies what you can run.
Tech Adept

It depends on what kind of deal you can get for it. I don't know of any places that still have the v2R, it was a limited edition kit. I got mine for about $40 more than the Pro, which is extremely good value as you'd pay more than that just for the aluminium shocks.
As for brushless and lipo, yes it can handle it. The M03 and regular M05 need rounded sport lipo packs, but the M05 v2 variants can take standard rectangular ones. For brushless motors, most people use a 21.5T sensored motor (17.5 would probably work too), or a 3000kV sensorless system such as the Hobbywing 13T ezRun combo. I'd recommend the ezRun if you're not racing at a track that specifies what you can run.
As for brushless and lipo, yes it can handle it. The M03 and regular M05 need rounded sport lipo packs, but the M05 v2 variants can take standard rectangular ones. For brushless motors, most people use a 21.5T sensored motor (17.5 would probably work too), or a 3000kV sensorless system such as the Hobbywing 13T ezRun combo. I'd recommend the ezRun if you're not racing at a track that specifies what you can run.
Could you advice also on a budget servo and necessary spare and hop ups (if needed) to improve the drive and durability? I'm trying to compile the total cost of the Tamiya project...

I would go for the latest and greatest and keep it for a long time. Even if you get the regular M05 or the V2, you will most likely end up getting the adjustable dampers and such, so this might be cheaper at the end.
http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio...ssis-kit-84424
I can't believe Tamiya has no promo codes out for this winter..
Guess I won't be getting anything.
http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio...ssis-kit-84424
I can't believe Tamiya has no promo codes out for this winter..


I would go for the latest and greatest and keep it for a long time. Even if you get the regular M05 or the V2, you will most likely end up getting the adjustable dampers and such, so this might be cheaper at the end.
http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio...ssis-kit-84424
I can't believe Tamiya has no promo codes out for this winter..
Guess I won't be getting anything.
http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio...ssis-kit-84424
I can't believe Tamiya has no promo codes out for this winter..


As has been mentioned a couple of times in the last page or 2, that kit was limited edition and isn't available anymore. Unless you know of a source that still has some?

I bought a mo6pro a few years ago. I did upgrade the shocks to the CVA/black ones, front and rear shock towers with the Tamiya carbon fiber ones and rear aluminum hubs.
I have the car set up as a LWB w/ beetle body on it. Running gear it has a Tekin 21.5 w/Hobbywing 60a ESC. The car handles very well. I am wanting to put a 13.5 in it. I think it handles better then my mo5proV2 with a 10.5.
I have the car set up as a LWB w/ beetle body on it. Running gear it has a Tekin 21.5 w/Hobbywing 60a ESC. The car handles very well. I am wanting to put a 13.5 in it. I think it handles better then my mo5proV2 with a 10.5.