Tamiya mini cooper
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
Of course you can't have an M front wheel drive chassis without the famous little Mini
Tech Elite
iTrader: (66)
This page needs a wiki like the others. It's to much to read through 1800 pages to look for the good tips.
I am looking into getting into mini racing when I return from a deployment in The fall. My track will be running the basic M05 kit with the Johnson silver can motor and "box stock" car. Only upgrade allowed is bearings. Other than that, what are the good tips and tricks to this chassis while building to help make it operate smoothly and add a little durability?
Thanks in advance
I am looking into getting into mini racing when I return from a deployment in The fall. My track will be running the basic M05 kit with the Johnson silver can motor and "box stock" car. Only upgrade allowed is bearings. Other than that, what are the good tips and tricks to this chassis while building to help make it operate smoothly and add a little durability?
Thanks in advance
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
This page needs a wiki like the others. It's to much to read through 1800 pages to look for the good tips.
I am looking into getting into mini racing when I return from a deployment in The fall. My track will be running the basic M05 kit with the Johnson silver can motor and "box stock" car. Only upgrade allowed is bearings. Other than that, what are the good tips and tricks to this chassis while building to help make it operate smoothly and add a little durability?
Thanks in advance
I am looking into getting into mini racing when I return from a deployment in The fall. My track will be running the basic M05 kit with the Johnson silver can motor and "box stock" car. Only upgrade allowed is bearings. Other than that, what are the good tips and tricks to this chassis while building to help make it operate smoothly and add a little durability?
Thanks in advance
The only silver can to have is a red dot silver can. After that, try to mount all lightweight electronics/body/etc low in the car...
Tech Initiate
to help with the bump steer, you need some taller ballstuds that mount on the steering knuckles. you want to try and make the steering links as horizontal as possible - that will remove most of the bump steer. most likely your steering links are higher on the inside than the outside - so they kind of go like this / \ (bad angle, but hopefully it gets the point across).
get a longer ball stud and like a 3mm or 4mm spacers to raise the outer steering end so its pretty much horizontal. I was told to do this on my M03 to remove the bump steer, so when i build my M05, i just did it as part of the build
get a longer ball stud and like a 3mm or 4mm spacers to raise the outer steering end so its pretty much horizontal. I was told to do this on my M03 to remove the bump steer, so when i build my M05, i just did it as part of the build
Thank you for that. I ended up installing a set of Tamiya TB Evolution IV king pin ball studs (didn't end up using any spacers), and there's no trace of any bump steer now. I have a feeling it won't be an acceptable mod for the racing I wish to get into, but we'll see what happens when I get the last few parts and I take it to the first race (I'm waiting on shipment on a few other parts - dampers, short springs, and steering set - before I take it out to the club). I do realize I should be able to race it as is though (that mod not withstanding).
M07 Phantom
More like a black M03 Deluxe with everything on it... With a coke
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
Nice one roger.
AngryRog, -or anyone else ...are you racing the M03 competitively? If so, how are you doing with it? One of our better drivers runs an M03 and has for years ...he never changed to the M05 ..he's still doing great w/ his M03 though.
I've only been back at it for a month, and decided to run the TCS final on a whim. The general consensus was to run the M05v2 due to battery capabilities. The 5 is a good car, but the M03 handles better IMO.
We had two M03's in the 8 minute TCS Triple-A Mains. They were good, but noticeably off pace at the 4-5min. mark due to their round sport packs.
I modded the above M03 for a square pack for non-TCS racing as it is no longer competitive in a TCS legal configuration.
We had two M03's in the 8 minute TCS Triple-A Mains. They were good, but noticeably off pace at the 4-5min. mark due to their round sport packs.
I modded the above M03 for a square pack for non-TCS racing as it is no longer competitive in a TCS legal configuration.
Just got back into rc. I am going to need to refresh my M05 soon. I was wondering if upgrading to the Ver II is a better option? I am competive with the car now.
Also, are you guys with the ver II running regular square packs or shorty packs?
thanks
Chris
Also, are you guys with the ver II running regular square packs or shorty packs?
thanks
Chris
The full size square packs are currently in vogue at our local track.
You can get by with just the v2 front chassis for your conversion. Motor mount is offset by a little. I don't use the v2 droop adjusters, just shock setup the old fashioned way. lol
You can get by with just the v2 front chassis for your conversion. Motor mount is offset by a little. I don't use the v2 droop adjusters, just shock setup the old fashioned way. lol
Tech Apprentice
Hi.. i want to ask about my m05.. the kit is box stock except the ball bearing, when i run about 15minutes the motor gets pretty hot but the esc not even warm.. is it undergeared??
The electronic
-Silver can motor w/20tooth pinion(along with the kit)
-esc tamiya tble 02s
I got a plan to change the motor with sport tuned motor,
1.with the same gearing would it fix the hot motor and cool esc issue?
2.i have another plan to change it to brushless system hw justock, the motor better 13.5t or 17.5t and i want to know what pinion did you guys use on this setup? (Still 20t pinion or lower t?
The electronic
-Silver can motor w/20tooth pinion(along with the kit)
-esc tamiya tble 02s
I got a plan to change the motor with sport tuned motor,
1.with the same gearing would it fix the hot motor and cool esc issue?
2.i have another plan to change it to brushless system hw justock, the motor better 13.5t or 17.5t and i want to know what pinion did you guys use on this setup? (Still 20t pinion or lower t?
It is okay for the silver can to get very hot to the touch. I run the factory 20 teeth pinion on all my silver can m-chassis. And like yours, the ESC does not get hot at all but the siver can does.
If you run brushless, you want to keep the motor running much cooler. I do the 5 second rule with brushless motors. If my finger can withstand the heat for 5 seconds touching the motor, then it's still geared correctly.
If you run brushless, you want to keep the motor running much cooler. I do the 5 second rule with brushless motors. If my finger can withstand the heat for 5 seconds touching the motor, then it's still geared correctly.
Tech Apprentice
It is okay for the silver can to get very hot to the touch. I run the factory 20 teeth pinion on all my silver can m-chassis. And like yours, the ESC does not get hot at all but the siver can does.
If you run brushless, you want to keep the motor running much cooler. I do the 5 second rule with brushless motors. If my finger can withstand the heat for 5 seconds touching the motor, then it's still geared correctly.
If you run brushless, you want to keep the motor running much cooler. I do the 5 second rule with brushless motors. If my finger can withstand the heat for 5 seconds touching the motor, then it's still geared correctly.
Will the hot motor cool esc problem solved? I mean all the electronics are evenly warm.. esc+motor
My local track has long straight (purposely for 1/10 touring car with asphalt surface)
So when i drive my m it always go full throttle and still slow ass hell lol.. need a little more speed i guest..
Wanted to try BL 13,5t or 17,5t.. and im confused with the pinion, bcause the m has limited gear ratio..
Maybe with 13,5t i must use 16t pinion and with 17,5t using 18t pinion?
😁😁😁 Maybe someone can explain to me detailed