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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 02-29-2016, 04:37 PM
  #26941  
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They just get spun faster. Turns aren't ratios, just the number of times the wire in the motor stator has been wound around it's core.. Less turns equals faster motor.

If you're wondering what other effect this might have, there's always the possibility of faster wear and tear. That's about it.
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Old 02-29-2016, 05:11 PM
  #26942  
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Monk, I'm sorry I phrased my question wrong
Aren't the internal gears that are plastic affected more quickly by the higher (faster)
motor speed? Are you guys still using the 20 tooth gear on the motor or is that changed also?
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Old 02-29-2016, 05:50 PM
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I know most people running the 13 turn motors are still running 20T pinions. Everyone still wants the SPEED!
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Old 02-29-2016, 05:57 PM
  #26944  
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Lukezoid: try 200,000 in the 3racing gear diff, and go from there. The "norm" for guys I race with is 500K. Some go as far as 2.5 Million or just jam the diff with putty.

13T unsensored sounds interesting. In Canada, there is a spec unsensored motor for mini, but nowhere near the power of a 13T.

Where I am now, people run 21.5 sensored. Very smooth, and the extra top end is noticeable versus our spec mini motor. A few years ago, a big race hosted "modified mini" as a demonstration class. A 6.5T in mini just leads to broken mini's and yes, melted/stripped gears.
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Old 02-29-2016, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
I know most people running the 13 turn motors are still running 20T pinions. Everyone still wants the SPEED!
This sounds like fun, something to try on the side at one of our local races
just to see their reaction when I win one!
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Old 02-29-2016, 09:14 PM
  #26946  
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Our local asphalt track runs 17.5 blinky in the Mini's. They go plenty fast and do tend to spin the tires if you are not careful. No stripped gears That I know of. A barrel of fun.
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Old 02-29-2016, 10:19 PM
  #26947  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
I know most people running the 13 turn motors are still running 20T pinions. Everyone still wants the SPEED!
Australian Mini rules - http://members.iinet.net.au/[email protected]_Rules.htm
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Old 03-01-2016, 04:07 AM
  #26948  
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you can use fast gear set from 3racing
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Old 03-01-2016, 05:23 AM
  #26949  
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Our track in Newmarket, Ontario runs 17.5 blinky minis. Pretty fast, but obviously limited by the FDR of the chassis.
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Old 03-01-2016, 07:50 AM
  #26950  
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For my mini racing I have a Justock Hobbywing 45Amp esc and a Skyrc 2200kv 380 motor. If people have the orca motor; they use them; they are supposed to be nearly identical.

Trying to understand if running a shorty pack gives any advantage; other than weight. I can't find the answer online but I can't see why that motor could pull more than what the battery I have (Reedy 7.2 wolfpack 4000mah x 30C = 120amps) can give. If it pulled more than 45amp it would burn the speed control out before we can say modifed.

I think that motor pulls about 25ish amps? Anyway alot of people are running shorties now in this class; just wanted to know why they run that pack now.
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Old 03-01-2016, 08:00 AM
  #26951  
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I'm running a shorty pack for weight reasons (cheap 4000mAh 50C shorty that came with my F1 car). With the shorty, I was still 60g overweight at the MJ WCICS event. Robbie had a full length pack and was 120g overweight, yet he still tq'd. Impressive. With my cheap lipo, my mini was still as fast as the cfast guys on the straight, I just made too many driving errors and had the wrong rear tires on the car.
I don't think the orca/toro 2200kv motors draw much current, so I don't think a big 100C pack would be of much benefit.

Edit: I'm waiting for hobbyking to receive more stock of their 2600mAh super shorty. I was only using 900-1000mAh per run, so I think it will be fine. The weight savings will hopefully offset the voltage drop.

Originally Posted by irvinew
For my mini racing I have a Justock Hobbywing 45Amp esc and a Skyrc 2200kv 380 motor. If people have the orca motor; they use them; they are supposed to be nearly identical.

Trying to understand if running a shorty pack gives any advantage; other than weight. I can't find the answer online but I can't see why that motor could pull more than what the battery I have (Reedy 7.2 wolfpack 4000mah x 30C = 120amps) can give. If it pulled more than 45amp it would burn the speed control out before we can say modifed.

I think that motor pulls about 25ish amps? Anyway alot of people are running shorties now in this class; just wanted to know why they run that pack now.
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Old 03-01-2016, 08:49 AM
  #26952  
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The shorty pack gives you weight savings and ability to balance the chassis left to right by adjusting the position of the battery.

A bigger capacity battery will also give you better voltage throughout the race which is helpful.

The C rating of the battery and burst current of the ESC aren't that important. In terms of instantaneous current, the more that is available from the battery the better the ESC will be able to rotate the motor. Even a current limiting circuit needs time to react to the current spike. So this is just a matter of how far down the rabbit hole you want to go. If you are talking about mini at a club do what is reasonable and improve your driving. The driver upgrade will be more valuable anyway.

Personally I have a 4200mah shorty to reduce weight and balance the chassis, an orca q spark 100a ESC, and 2200kv sensorless motor and the car is one of the fastest down the straight. Unfortunately I'm not the fastest through the in field. Oh, and the Shorty's do triple duty in mini, f1, and 1/10 2wd buggy and cost less then the round packs available at my LHS. (Turnigy Nano-Techs)
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Old 03-02-2016, 05:54 PM
  #26953  
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In today's "Tales of Dumbssery" we hear the harrowing tale of an RC enthusiast with too little sleep.

A few hours ago, I sat down at my desk with my laptop, Hobbywing program box and a few cars. I first went about making sure I had the latest version of USB link and the firmware on the program box was up to date. Then, I checked to see that my TC (HW 120A V2.1) had the latest update. Yuppers, no problem, grab the next car.

The next car is the M03. (last version of Justock) I plug it in to the program box/USB link and get nothing. Unplug, replug, turn on and off...nothing. Now I'm thinking the newest version of the program box firmware won't talk to the slightly older ESC I've got. It wouldn't be the first time Hobbywing has done this.

So, I spent two hours uninstalling/reinstalling various versions of HW's USB link software, firmware on the program box. Swearing, pounding my fists on the workbench and promising myself that the next chance I got, I was flying to Redmond, WA in order to beat the living tar out of Bill Gates (more on my hate for Windows another time maybe) followed by a trip to wherever HW is based, to dish out some serious slappings.

Anyway, two hours into this and I noticed something new. Looking through the slats in the rear half of my M03 I see an orange and a blue LED lit up on the ESC. Very slowly, it dawns on me that Hobbywing Justocks don't have orange or blue LEDs. You know what does have orange and blue LEDs? A Novak GTX.

I completely forgot that I'd switched the M03 to a brushed setup last week.

Dumbass.
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Old 03-02-2016, 07:07 PM
  #26954  
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LoL

Jim, it's alright. Just as long as you don't put on two left shoes before leaving the house.
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Old 03-02-2016, 07:13 PM
  #26955  
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Originally Posted by (0000000000)
LoL

Jim, it's alright. Just as long as you don't put on two left shoes before leaving the house.
I had 2 left C hubs on my Serpent last week.
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