288LikesTamiya mini cooper
11-16-2015, 10:26 PM
11-16-2015, 10:43 PM
I've been running the rear from the 05 Gold, which came with 1.5* uprights and the built in 1* in the plate. I've not noticed anything particularly bad about it, but would prefer 0* at the plate.
Last edited by monkeyracing; 11-16-2015 at 11:15 PM.
11-16-2015, 11:14 PM
Thanks for the info, Ivan! 
11-17-2015, 05:57 AM
Finally found a 380 sized brushless that fits my M-Four.
It is a huge bump in power over the SportsTuned 380, but still driveable.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...rushless-1.jpg
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...-brushless.jpg
I had to yank the Hobbywing ESC off my V2 as the TBLE02s does not run sensorless...
Now I am thinking about just putting back my silver can in my V2 and run the TBLE02S..
The Shimizu hard compound 55mm did great on my slammed M05. Very happy about that. Now I am wondering how the 60mm sized hard Shimizu's are for my 60D cars.. Will see how it wears first. The compound is about as hard as the kit 60D radials which is perfect for my track surface.
It is a huge bump in power over the SportsTuned 380, but still driveable.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...rushless-1.jpg
http://www.rctech.net/forum/members/...-brushless.jpg
I had to yank the Hobbywing ESC off my V2 as the TBLE02s does not run sensorless...
Now I am thinking about just putting back my silver can in my V2 and run the TBLE02S..
The Shimizu hard compound 55mm did great on my slammed M05.
Very happy about that. Now I am wondering how the 60mm sized hard Shimizu's are for my 60D cars.. Will see how it wears first. The compound is about as hard as the kit 60D radials which is perfect for my track surface.
11-17-2015, 06:39 AM
You actually kinda pulled the same thing in the largest and most competitive Stock Touring Car class and the USGT class. For TC, your 417 is actually older than my ARC and I think you would have made the A main if not for a screw coming loose in the middle of the last chance qualifier. I was lucky to get into the show that was made up of 4 Awesomatix, 4 Xrays, a Serpent and my Generation 1 ARC. For USGT, you also did very well with your TT01 making the show. You just need to give it a try in Mini!!!
Ivan
I definitely agree with you that there is no reason to spend countless money on having the latest and greatest chassis out there if you are still running wide on corner apexes or tapping boards. The best improvement you can make is always the driver.
The TT-01's were actually really fun - I never would have thought we could put those into the A main against a bunch of state-of-the art cars. Open diffs, plastic dogbones and all... I had to do the timing mod on my Trackstar motor to get enough speed on the straights, so that motor is technically "illegal" as I modified it. I will have to double my investment and pick up one of those Team Powers motors you run. for the next race.
I make too many mistakes to run a bone-stock mini at big races, but if you keep pressuring me, you might be able to convince me for the last race of the season
11-17-2015, 08:03 AM
Tech Addict
How about these? Cheap, rounded, good quality, available. And if you think there's any way you'll need 100c out of a battery in a mini, you're crazy.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ick_Pack_.html
This pack will put out 168A continuous and 336A peak. Way more than enough. Running 13T systems, some guys in Australia did a little data-logging and found they were peaking at 35A.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ick_Pack_.html
This pack will put out 168A continuous and 336A peak. Way more than enough. Running 13T systems, some guys in Australia did a little data-logging and found they were peaking at 35A.
Seems like a deal! but im not running a mini. I did mention it previously. I just ask here because you guys also run round packs. ( i run a TL-01) and yes as mentioned i also had some orcas and they have puffed a bit. I really do need all the umpf i can get. The car gets quite heavy u see. When i finally retire it i will probably get a M-chassi or another Tamiya.
Anyway. Thanks. Im getting one of those.
11-17-2015, 11:44 AM
11-20-2015, 06:00 AM
Quiet in here... any plans for the weekend?
I'm going to put my V2 back together. Got the entire next week off! Will play with my MFour and Sabre4WD Mini.
I'm going to put my V2 back together. Got the entire next week off! Will play with my MFour and Sabre4WD Mini.
11-20-2015, 07:44 AM
11-20-2015, 09:13 AM
11-20-2015, 10:20 AM
11-21-2015, 03:08 AM
Have a couple of Black Can motors to break in for next weekend.
11-21-2015, 10:01 AM
11-21-2015, 11:00 AM
11-21-2015, 11:41 AM
From my understanding, it is purely a weight transfer setting. If I remember correctly, comparing X* of toe in the hub to X* of toe in the hingepin instead, the in-board toe (in the hingepin) will transfer more weight to the front, increasing off-power steering. But take that with a grain of salt because that's tried and true 1/10 touring car tuning right there. I'm asking here because we've all seen a few times where M-chassis cars ignore the TC tuning rules and write their own wacky ROE.