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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 11-12-2015, 05:48 PM
  #26101  
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Originally Posted by (0000000000)
Its not truly stock until Ivan put in those white plastic bearings!

LoL
My stockish M05 runs the plastic bushings. Hey they work for the most part!

Got some free time tonight finally.. working on my MFour's damper setup.
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Old 11-12-2015, 07:07 PM
  #26102  
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Originally Posted by (0000000000)
Any info on the preferred 21.5 for mini?

I just got back from a big Canadian race. Put in a Reedy Sonic ii. I figured out the track early on. But with a 25 ft lead on the guys behind me, i found that their D4 and R1 powered cars closed the distance at the end of the sweeper on the long straightaway. Probably 2 thenths of a second I was losing on the backstretch.

I cranked the timing on the motor and burned it up (+180' all weekend long). Suggestions on preferred motor to replace the one i cooked?
My Driver, Golddust, runs a ThunderPower 21.5 in his 05 and is pretty successful when he keeps his head in the game.
I picked up a Turnigy recently but haven't tried it yet in my car
They're about $35US from (I think it was ) Hobby King.
Several of the Top Gun Drivers we run with run the R1 Werks (Sp???)
motor and they are pretty successfully winning top races.
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Old 11-12-2015, 09:52 PM
  #26103  
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Iíve been asked to comment on the effect of mini droop on carpet.

Let me preface this by saying I race with Axle182 regularly and he has background in full scale racing which heís also good at and has way more setup knowledge than I do.

Secondly, for some darn reason as mentioned by many before me, some things that work on a Touring Car does not necessarily translate into mini setup. For instance:

- running different front and rear tires in a mini but not on TC
- glueing the outside edges of the front tires to cure traction rolling
- using softer front springs than the rear

Iíve also been told by 2 of the top racers at my club different things than what I thought were true or worked but they are both super fast and know what they are talking about. I listen and just absorb.

- "In offroad, front and rear droop affect acceleration and braking more so than in onroad where weight transfer side to side is more important than in offroad"
- Our top racer runs full max droop front and rear in his TC and tunes his car around that
- the other top racer says droop is only a fine tuning adjustment

From my personal experience, I find droop to be the most important setup change in my touring car pending my base setup is decent to begin with. In owning 2 different touring car chassis in a span of 5 years, Iíve actually only needed to change my droop screws for any race night or weekend (in blinky 17.5 and Mod). Iíve refined it to the point of only needing to only decrease rear droop (clockwise turn droop screw) to manage the track grip coming up and reset it after the finals. May sound crazy to you all, but it works for me.

Back to discussing mini droop, my base setup for my M03 I find 2 things the most important:

- car needs to turn on a dime and rotate fast around the corner
- car needs to be front heavy so the front tires have the best grip to accelerate the fastest

So I think in my car (my competitive M03) I have it set up with front shocks have 1 O ring as a limiter and rear with no limiters (full droop). Reasoning: Full rear droop allows for full weight transfer to the front wheels off power and better steering. This is also based on the fact that my front outer glue on my tires are in good shape to not traction roll. I think if I have FULL droop in the front shocks, there would also be extra lift in the front tires hence higher chance of traction rolling (even with glue) or having a bouncy car and more chance on your lid as Axle182 is saying. Thatís my reasoning. His might be different and if it is, I would like to hear why. I'm always willing to learn.

Having less front droop (1 O ring as a limiter) not only keeps the front more planted and I think also helps LESS rear weight transfer on acceleration therefore better kick out of the corners pending you also got a somewhat tight front diff. So many variables are interconnected with whatever adjustments you do but thatís my thoughts on droop where I set it once and forget it unlike in touring cars.

Hope that makes sense,

Ivan
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Old 11-12-2015, 09:57 PM
  #26104  
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Originally Posted by howardcano
Do you mean you can't set drag brake in the ESC, or that you can, but it doesn't suit your driving style?
Originally Posted by howardcano
Okay, I was just curious that maybe the "feel" was wrong. Whenever I run drag brake, I don't do it with the ESC programming, I use the throttle trim since I've done it that way for many decades; it feels better, and smoother to me.

I had an M03 that also had the friction dampers. To improve the handling, I completely removed the springs and inserted small foam rubber "pucks" inside the dampers to serve as both spring and damper. It was a big improvement (but not as good as oil dampers, of course). And the old mouse pad I used for the pucks was free!
Originally Posted by (0000000000)
Its not truly stock until Ivan put in those white plastic bearings!

LoL
Can set ESC drag brake. Just doesnít feel like it does in a touring car (In Mod TC. I run no drag brake in Blinky 17.5). Screws up my timing steering into the corners even worse!

I actually didnít know you can do that on your radio. What radio are you using and what trim setting is that so I can read up on that and find the equivalent on my radio and test? Thanks.

Thatís genius Howard with the shocks. I did modify the friction dampers by cutting one ring off the stock silver springs to make lower ride height and actually Iím not using any damping inside at all. That inside rubber tubing was in bad shape so just took it out. So itís just springs and for some reason it's not hopping that much around the track!

CVA shocks would be too easy. White plastic bearings are just crazy!

Ivan
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Old 11-13-2015, 02:02 AM
  #26105  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
You may want to reinforce the surface where the droop screws meet the chassis. That plastic will wear and settings will change on you. I'm using shims made from razor blades and epoxy them in place. (even they can get dented in a little.)
I made my droop limiter screw contact plates from some old Bosch jig-saw blades ground down to size on the bench grinder.
A good bit thicker and harded than razor blades and the grub screw doesn't have to protrude as far from the suspension arm.
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Old 11-13-2015, 08:17 AM
  #26106  
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Originally Posted by (0000000000)
Any info on the preferred 21.5 for mini?

I just got back from a big Canadian race. Put in a Reedy Sonic ii. I figured out the track early on. But with a 25 ft lead on the guys behind me, i found that their D4 and R1 powered cars closed the distance at the end of the sweeper on the long straightaway. Probably 2 thenths of a second I was losing on the backstretch.

I cranked the timing on the motor and burned it up (+180' all weekend long). Suggestions on preferred motor to replace the one i cooked?
Judging from your experience seems you will be trying a different motor anyway... but my .02 i run the same Reedy mach2 timing all the way up with no fan and haven't had any issues at all. Power wise I think some of the competition is running the orange can D4 and I feel there is not much of a top end difference. Heat wise I stopped checking because it was always ok even for our 10 minute mains... There are some hot race days since we race by the beach but I can't quantify it with a number
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Old 11-13-2015, 09:05 AM
  #26107  
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Originally Posted by BoneCrusher
Can set ESC drag brake. Just doesn’t feel like it does in a touring car (In Mod TC. I run no drag brake in Blinky 17.5). Screws up my timing steering into the corners even worse!

I actually didn’t know you can do that on your radio. What radio are you using and what trim setting is that so I can read up on that and find the equivalent on my radio and test? Thanks.
All radios have throttle trim, but most drivers never touch it after calibrating the ESC. (On most radios it's to the left of the steering wheel; on my DX4C, I have programmed the switch there to be throttle trim.) Make sure your ESC is programmed with zero drag brake. Then all you need to do is move the radio throttle trim toward the brake/reverse end to get a liitle bit of drag.

The biggest advantage of doing this is it gives a smooth transition from acceleration torque to braking torque, and vice-versa. This is unlike setting drag brake in an ESC, where the braking torque will immediately jump up to the preset level when the trigger is released. This discontinuity can upset the handling of the car if it's really on edge (close to neutral handling, which of course is where maximum lateral acceleration occurs), when you are finessing the throttle into and out of a corner. Imagine telling a driver of a real car that he can use the brakes, but if he does, he has to hit them with at least (for instance) 20% force; he'd think you were nuts.

There are several pitfalls to doing this. The first is that some ESCs won't "boot" on power-up until they sense a neutral signal. I work around this by setting the receiver fail-safe at neutral, then always turn the car on before the transmitter. After the ESC boots, turn on the transmitter.

Another problem is if you use reverse, you'll lose it, because most ESCs require the throttle to be at neutral for a short length of time before engaging reverse. That's usually not a concern for racing.

It also helps to program the ESC deadband to it's lowest setting, so there's less wasted throttle trigger travel.

If you need more throttle trim reverse motion, set the trim fully forward when calibrating the ESC.

P.S. If you use the rubber pucks for springs/dampers, keep the car off the ground whenever you aren't on the track. The rubber takes a set after a while, which can screw up ride height and corner weights.
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Old 11-13-2015, 09:21 AM
  #26108  
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Great info, Ivan!

As for motors, I don't race, but I like my ThunderPower brushless. So smooth on the rev-up I'm running 17.5T on my Sabre4WD in my tiny track with no issue. Thing is a rocket, yet driveable. I just go through tires real quick.. lol

My V2 and SabreFD (FWD) also run Thunderpower motors (21.5T) very smooth. I tried other motors like Vulcan and SonicMach2 but they are torque based so didn't like them too much on these chassis, but they do well on the M03 (Vulcan) and CupRacer (Mach2). So for those just bashing around their m-chassis for fun, I recommend the Thunderpower as it is smooth almost like a brushed motor.

I'm going to try that Turnigy motor KA2 mentioned this winter on my M05.

Also toss in that S9551 people rave about...find out for myself what's great about them. Hope it don't turn out like some of the bits I've tried earlier this Summer following raving reviews which was more for bling than anything else.
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Old 11-13-2015, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by axle182
Remember where I said I qualified 2nd, that's cause you had the pole position.... Do you know how hard it is, to be laughing your head off on the stand, while trying to keep the lead on the first lap???? And hearing you scream "DOH!!" when your car broke hahahaha Ahh the memories
I think that was last year at the Calgary leg of the WCICS. Ivan had TQ and somehow ended up 7th, and you ran away with the win. I couldn't catch you. I think finish order was you, me, then Tim from Edm.

Lots of laughs on the stand during that race...
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Old 11-13-2015, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by hprt
I think that was last year at the Calgary leg of the WCICS. Ivan had TQ and somehow ended up 7th, and you ran away with the win. I couldn't catch you. I think finish order was you, me, then Tim from Edm.

Lots of laughs on the stand during that race...
I kind of wish you guys weren't so far away from us!
You all sound like a great bunch to race with!
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Old 11-13-2015, 10:31 AM
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Can you guys re-confirm to me that the Pit Shimizu 55mm tires fit the Tamiya m-chassis wheels (Rover Mini wheels)?

I ran those tires on my old HPI wheels long time ago, but I don't have the HPI wheel to compare it with. TIA!
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Old 11-13-2015, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by AM03GT
Judging from your experience seems you will be trying a different motor anyway... but my .02 i run the same Reedy mach2 timing all the way up with no fan and haven't had any issues at all. Power wise I think some of the competition is running the orange can D4 and I feel there is not much of a top end difference. Heat wise I stopped checking because it was always ok even for our 10 minute mains... There are some hot race days since we race by the beach but I can't quantify it with a number

I had great success with the Reedy outside on asphalt and inside during club races on carpet. Once i cranked the timing to max, i was able to do well. Fastest laps of the weekend and 3rd place podium finish. I think the motor just ran out of life. I could go back to a Reedy Sonic, as that's what i knew worked well. Out here on the west coast, it definitely seems to be a who's who of motor and racing equipment:


Orca RX3 & Ti
Trinity D4
G force Super sonic
M Power Motive Motors
R1
Shurspeed
MM Feta
Etc

I guess im just getting used to the fact that they dont run spec motors here in mini class. Time to make an rcmart order!
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Old 11-13-2015, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by sakadachi
Can you guys re-confirm to me that the Pit Shimizu 55mm tires fit the Tamiya m-chassis wheels (Rover Mini wheels)?

I ran those tires on my old HPI wheels long time ago, but I don't have the HPI wheel to compare it with. TIA!
Yes. Same inside diameter.

Are you in the market for a couple of OG rover shells and an m01 box for $20 Canadian bucks?

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-hobbies-craft...ale/1117101201
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Old 11-13-2015, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
Yes. Same inside diameter.

Are you in the market for a couple of OG rover shells and an m01 box for $20 Canadian bucks?

http://www.kijiji.ca/v-hobbies-craft...ale/1117101201
Thanks, monkeyracing.

For now I still have 2 freshly painted yet-to-be-decaled new Rover bodies so I am good. Thanks for the link though!
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Old 11-13-2015, 09:29 PM
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Have any of you seen the ridiculous Yeah Racing heatsink kit of the V2? It requires you to hack a hole in the bottom of the chassis! Totally amazing...nope. It's part of their "upgrade and efficiency kit". This is some of the worst crap they've tried to sell us yet.

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