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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 09-29-2015, 02:00 PM
  #25786  
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Too long... That's almost TC size. And they can't make it fit a M06?
I'd make that body a TC size and run 4WD.

What Tamiya really needs to make is a M-Four that runs 540 motors.
A double deck CF 4WD m-chassis. Enough with these plasticy chassis that you got to crack open just to get to the diff.
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Old 09-29-2015, 07:44 PM
  #25787  
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I think you're missing the point. It's supposed to be cheap and simple with limited adjustability. Then again, with Hobbyking marketing a 4wd CF mini for $89, there seems to be no excuse for the price of Tamiya kits.

Anyway, rebuilding my dampers and I've just noticed the lining on the inside of the cylinders is completely gone in the area where the piston runs. Might be time to buy some new ones. I got these ones used in 2008. I don't think I've ever bought new dampers before.
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Old 09-29-2015, 07:57 PM
  #25788  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
I think you're missing the point. It's supposed to be cheap and simple with limited adjustability. Then again, with Hobbyking marketing a 4wd CF mini for $89, there seems to be no excuse for the price of Tamiya kits.
I thought about it, but decided against it as the exchange rate makes the $89 price tag appear like false advertising. It looks like another oem clone -im thinking xpress? Doesnt look sexy enough to be Atomic.
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Old 09-29-2015, 09:07 PM
  #25789  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
I think you're missing the point. It's supposed to be cheap and simple with limited adjustability. Then again, with Hobbyking marketing a 4wd CF mini for $89, there seems to be no excuse for the price of Tamiya kits.
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Old 09-29-2015, 09:19 PM
  #25790  
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Originally Posted by (0000000000)
I thought about it, but decided against it as the exchange rate makes the $89 price tag appear like false advertising. It looks like another oem clone -im thinking xpress? Doesnt look sexy enough to be Atomic.
Hobbyking is actually using old photos of a Nanda NRX-12 from around 2008-2009 on the website to advertise this "new mini". I guess this is just another way to keep the price super low!
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Old 09-30-2015, 07:18 AM
  #25791  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
Anyway, rebuilding my dampers and I've just noticed the lining on the inside of the cylinders is completely gone in the area where the piston runs. Might be time to buy some new ones. I got these ones used in 2008. I don't think I've ever bought new dampers before.
No need to buy new dampers, simply buy new cylinders, Tamiya Part No.42272.
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Old 10-01-2015, 05:22 AM
  #25792  
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I suppose if your other parts of the damper are not worn that is a sound choice..

I'd just get a new set and start fresh at $24+ for the housings... toss in some x-rings while at it.
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Old 10-01-2015, 08:33 AM
  #25793  
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I rebuild at least once a year. R place rods and pistons about every second year. The rods and pistons are looking pretty janky, too. This could be an excuse to spoil myself and buy new for a change.

Has anyone figured out what size springs the big bores use?
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Old 10-01-2015, 03:20 PM
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Enough with these plasticy chassis that you got to crack open just to get to the diff.
HA, that would save me time and make my life easier.
I do love that my mini is not like any of my other cars ...glad there are still some unique classes.
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Old 10-01-2015, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by eR1c
HA, that would save me time and make my life easier.
I do love that my mini is not like any of my other cars ...glad there are still some unique classes.
Yeah, I know it's sealed and all (sort of) but at least make the gearbox so that it's a tub and the bottom housing comes off without having to have to crack open the entire friggen' chassis like an egg.

I do like these m-chassis for its size, that's for certain; but Tamiya needs to have a 4WD TRF doubledeck CF m-chassis that runs 540. Considering how well my M-Four runs, I'd get one in a heartbeat even if it was TRF pricing.
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Old 10-01-2015, 05:48 PM
  #25796  
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Purchased a M05 V2 pro and have raced the car twice on carpet (ozite) and love the car so far just curious of some suggestions to make it more competitive. Currently I'm running M-Grips in front and S-Grips in the rear with a 225mm wheel base and we run the stock Johnson motor for spec.
As far as tires go we are allowed to run slicks such as sweeps but I'm not sure which compound to run and if it would be an improvement, I've heard 33F and 25R and I've also been told 40F and 33R. Last night when the traction came up for the mains I had a hard time keeping it from rolling so I've heard to put ca on the front tires so curious if that would be a better solution than the sweeps simply because my top end on the 60mm tires was slightly faster than the guys using 55mm slicks.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Old 10-01-2015, 06:15 PM
  #25797  
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Gravity- I'm assuming you already run either ball or oil diffs or the monkeyracing diff, correct? If not, that would be a huge improvement in powering out of turns.

Otherwise, I think you're on the right track of trying different tires. The car runs well in factory form + LSD action on the diff.
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Old 10-01-2015, 06:45 PM
  #25798  
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Gravity: Our typical carpet setup is S Grips all around, with some CA glue on the front sidewalls and maybe a little on the very outside edge of the tread. Soft front springs with stiff rear springs. Rear riding a few mm higher than the front. Diffs are damn near locked up, with anything from crunchy old balls diffs to the 3Racing gear diff running 2.5 million wt silicone. (I use a stock diff with a few extra shims on each side.) A lot of guys are using a swaybar on the rear to aid in getting the car to rotate, as well.

One thing to be aware of is the already short lived S Grips will become INCREDIBLY short lived the more you lock up the diff. On our local carpet tracks, I've burned through a set of fronts in as little as 4 or 5 heats. Some people can still make them work after they've become slicks, but that's not a talent I possess. Keep in mind, we're running very torquey brushless systems, so your mileage may vary and will likely be a little better.

I ran some 33/25 Sweeps last weekend and found they fared well on our carpet, even when the traction started coming up. I did the glue thing on those, as well. The previous weekend, I tried out some Pit Shimzu treaded tires in the same sorts of compounds and found them very predictable, without needing any glue. The loss of top end speed was a factor in both cases.
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Old 10-01-2015, 07:32 PM
  #25799  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
Gravity: Our typical carpet setup is S Grips all around, with some CA glue on the front sidewalls and maybe a little on the very outside edge of the tread. Soft front springs with stiff rear springs. Rear riding a few mm higher than the front. Diffs are damn near locked up, with anything from crunchy old balls diffs to the 3Racing gear diff running 2.5 million wt silicone. (I use a stock diff with a few extra shims on each side.) A lot of guys are using a swaybar on the rear to aid in getting the car to rotate, as well.

One thing to be aware of is the already short lived S Grips will become INCREDIBLY short lived the more you lock up the diff. On our local carpet tracks, I've burned through a set of fronts in as little as 4 or 5 heats. Some people can still make them work after they've become slicks, but that's not a talent I possess. Keep in mind, we're running very torquey brushless systems, so your mileage may vary and will likely be a little better.

I ran some 33/25 Sweeps last weekend and found they fared well on our carpet, even when the traction started coming up. I did the glue thing on those, as well. The previous weekend, I tried out some Pit Shimzu treaded tires in the same sorts of compounds and found them very predictable, without needing any glue. The loss of top end speed was a factor in both cases.

Gravity
I agree with Monk,
Try putting some CA on the front drive tires,
That's should improve your situation abit, if not make it more manageable
After that try swapping the springs around as suggested by Monk.
Just remember,
Do one thing at a time, so if you make your situation worse, you can go back
one step and try something better
Keep us informed of your progress!
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Old 10-01-2015, 09:01 PM
  #25800  
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Thanks guys I appreciate the responses! The car has the stock diff and is quite loose so I will need to change that but I think I will start with the ca on the front tires for the first qual and try the springs for the second qual. Are there any must have upgrades to the pro version besides fixing the differential? From what I read the 3racing steering rack and another racer suggested adjustable links.
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