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Old 09-21-2015, 07:37 AM   #25726
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Or, I could try this...
That looks like it might be "do-able" with a drill press, vise, hacksaw, and "manual mill" (a.k.a. hand file). It will take some time, but it should also last forever.
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Old 09-21-2015, 07:58 AM   #25727
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Really... high rpm is what I don't have off my Sonic. It has torque, A LOT of torque, but gets pretty hot easily when timing is advanced. Bert recommended me to get a 12.3mm rotor.

It works fine on a 4WD m-chassis like my CupRacer. I thought about putting it in my 4WD truck...




A lot of these motors come in a couple variations. I was at the till last year, about to drop cash on a couple Trinity killshot motors, when the clerk pointed out to me that these were the rpm versions, not the torque versions I wanted.

If the powerband of a motor is fine, but there is too much torque off the line, your esc might be able to adjust the amount of punch.
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Old 09-21-2015, 07:59 AM   #25728
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I like that the TrackStar motors have a non-bend at the solder terminals. I had to straighten the Vulcan one when I installed it on my V2 and soldered the straightened area so that it would not break off. I was like really..? Geez, Tamiya

I will give the red can a try next time around.
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Old 09-21-2015, 08:02 AM   #25729
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What is the best front diff to use while staying TCS legal?
New to mini and trying to get my car right.
Currently using the stock gear diff, but does not seal so after putting some 2.5 million in it only lasted 2 races.
You can use a ball diff from a TA03 (P/N: 53267) or the M05 ball diff (P/N: 54194)
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Old 09-21-2015, 08:02 AM   #25730
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A lot of these motors come in a couple variations. I was at the till last year, about to drop cash on a couple Trinity killshot motors, when the clerk pointed out to me that these were the rpm versions, not the torque versions I wanted.

If the powerband of a motor is fine, but there is too much torque off the line, your esc might be able to adjust the amount of punch.
I see... I need to try the 12.3mm rotors down the road then for sure.

As for the punch, I have it set at 'one' which is supposed to be the softest, plus EXPO on my radio. It still had too much abrupt throttle for my V2 to handle.

But honestly speaking, my V2 sucks, now that I had time to really compare them with my dialed in SabreFD Mini and latest rebuilt M03. I can't get the V2 to dial in very well. I need to stiffen the diff and work the suspension some more. I may even start using the monkeyracing diff in my V2.

I currently run the TA03 diff and it's too loose. I need to take out one of the bell washers for sure.

Also, any comments on the 3Racing gear diff? Any leaks?
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Old 09-21-2015, 08:04 AM   #25731
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Speedo's make a big difference in how the motor translates that power. Not sure about being TCS legal, but setting timing and punch make a huge difference. I recently switched out a Novak Edge with an Orca V3, and the difference was night/day.
This. Maybe it's my Hobbywing Juststock that's holding my car back. It's on my list of things to check.
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Old 09-21-2015, 08:05 AM   #25732
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Or, I could try this...

I was going to suggest 3D printer unless it has to be metal.
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Old 09-21-2015, 09:23 AM   #25733
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The 3racing diff is a good standard diff. It has a gasket, which will prevent oil from spinning out. A good idea is to use green slime to coat the gasket and housing. Personally, I use 2.5 million to do this.

Like Jim and AJ, I switched out the aluminum outdrives for the steel ones.
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Old 09-21-2015, 09:37 AM   #25734
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The 3racing diff is a good standard diff. It has a gasket, which will prevent oil from spinning out. A good idea is to use green slime to coat the gasket and housing. Personally, I use 2.5 million to do this.

Like Jim and AJ, I switched out the aluminum outdrives for the steel ones.
Thanks, I shall give this 3Racing diff a try. I use GreenSlime for all my oil diff installs, but it appears to be the o-ring that makes the real difference between leaking and non-leaking. I wonder if the Kyosho o-rings fit in these..
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Old 09-21-2015, 10:39 AM   #25735
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Originally Posted by howardcano View Post
That looks like it might be "do-able" with a drill press, vise, hacksaw, and "manual mill" (a.k.a. hand file). It will take some time, but it should also last forever.
If I had access to a local (and cheap) shop, I'd have a set made. Given I'm also unsure on the dimensions, I'll see if I can manually whittle them out of another material first.

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I was going to suggest 3D printer unless it has to be metal.
This would be great for prototyping. This is probably the first and only time I'll ever want a 3D printer. The finished parts will be under a lot of stress, however, so a solid hunk of metal would be best.
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Old 09-21-2015, 01:39 PM   #25736
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yes

but i wouldn't necessarily call it a 'problem'..

i used the BigBore shocks on my Nats winning car... previous to that i used the 'plastic shock' pistons in the regular TRF dampers to dial in my setup.. When switching over to the BigBore i chose an oil combination that felt very similar... yes, a SOFT setup...
Hey Osheman
Are you runing full or shorty lipo ? 6200 or 7200? Thanks
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Old 09-21-2015, 01:59 PM   #25737
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Hey Osheman
Are you runing full or shorty lipo ? 6200 or 7200? Thanks
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Old 09-21-2015, 02:06 PM   #25738
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Anyone ever painted their Mini chassis? How were the results?
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Old 09-21-2015, 05:08 PM   #25739
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Anyone ever painted their Mini chassis? How were the results?
This crossed my mind several times. Yet since I race mine I don't see any value to this and it may even disqualify me. I would be careful w/ spray paint (if you go this route) as it may react negatively with the Tamiya plastic (Tamiya plastic can tend to crack w/ certain solvents).

I have been waiting for Tamiya to release the M05 V2 chassis in fruity colors like they did w/ the M05.
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Old 09-22-2015, 06:35 AM   #25740
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Do you notice any leaking at all on this oil diff? I want to get one, but can not have leaking oil in my basement track.
I will be using AE's 100K. It's pretty stiff but not too stiff. TIA
No leaking with mine. Its great.

When you order it, also order a set of the steal/hard outdrives as the stock ones are too soft.

Ryan
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