Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Tamiya mini cooper >

Tamiya mini cooper

Like Tree288Likes

Tamiya mini cooper

Old 08-12-2015, 08:08 AM
  #25201  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
sakadachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 2,354
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Vrooom
Anyone used M-06 front ball shaft on front of M05, and connect the shocks to that shaft instead of normal shock hole?
Are you referring to the upper damper stay (tower)? I just ordered a pair for my V2 the other day, the carbon fiber ones front and rear.

Which leads to my next step. I want to REDUCE the rear toe-in on my V2 to allow more rotation.
sakadachi is offline  
Old 08-12-2015, 08:25 AM
  #25202  
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
 
hprt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Airdrie, Alberta
Posts: 1,720
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by M05 newbie
Ok so I have the teu101bk esc which is rated at 60A...the power cables going from the motor look to be hard wired to the circuit in the esc. The new motor has new power wires with it but how do u change them? I can't see inside the esc to see if they are soldered on or attached by connectors? How do u change them to attach the new motor to the esc?
A stock 101BK has bullet connectors for the motor wiring (Orange is positive, Blue is negative). Simply extend the Orange and Blue wires from the 101BK and solder them to the appropriate + and - terminals on the new motor. To extend the motor wires from the ESC, the easiest way is to cut off the bullet connectors and solder on extension wires to the 101BK. Remember to install heat shrink insulation on the solder connections when extending wires.

if you stay in the RC hobby for any length of time, you will become an expert at soldering...
hprt is offline  
Old 08-12-2015, 08:31 AM
  #25203  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: ontario canada
Posts: 281
Default

No I'm just getting a brushed LRP F1. Pretty decent looking motor for the price. It should draw 22 amps @ 167 watts (the motor rating). Do I just use the esc wires already on the esc I have?? The teu101bk is rated at 60A so I'm good there...hopefully lol
M05 newbie is offline  
Old 08-12-2015, 08:32 AM
  #25204  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: ontario canada
Posts: 281
Default

Ok that was what I was thinking hprt. Any special soldering tips...first timer here lol mine is soldered to my silver tin can already too.... bullet connectors are gone
M05 newbie is offline  
Old 08-12-2015, 08:47 AM
  #25205  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
sakadachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 2,354
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by M05 newbie
No I'm just getting a brushed LRP F1. Pretty decent looking motor for the price. It should draw 22 amps @ 167 watts (the motor rating). Do I just use the esc wires already on the esc I have?? The teu101bk is rated at 60A so I'm good there...hopefully lol
Oh ok, cool about the brushed. I would verify the number of turns the 101BK can handle. I thought they were only good to about a SportTuned motor (23turns)?

BTW, you might want to get a glitch capacitor if you encounter radio problems as the TEU101BK's BEC is kinda weak.
I know cause that's what I run on my M03. I'm going to swap it out with a TBLE02-S later on as I only run silver cans myself..

As for soldering, get a 50W or higher soldering iron. 25w is too low and can damage your motor and ESC, even DEANS connectors as it takes too long to heat up the terminals. I use a 60/40 rosin core solder.

Last edited by sakadachi; 08-12-2015 at 09:02 AM.
sakadachi is offline  
Old 08-12-2015, 09:16 AM
  #25206  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: ontario canada
Posts: 281
Default

Originally Posted by sakadachi
Oh ok, cool about the brushed. I would verify the number of turns the 101BK can handle. I thought they were only good to about a SportTuned motor (23turns)?

BTW, you might want to get a glitch capacitor if you encounter radio problems as the TEU101BK's BEC is kinda weak.
I know cause that's what I run on my M03. I'm going to swap it out with a TBLE02-S later on as I only run silver cans myself..

As for soldering, get a 50W or higher soldering iron. 25w is too low and can damage your motor and ESC, even DEANS connectors as it takes too long to heat up the terminals. I use a 60/40 rosin core solder.
What's the deal with the turns. The new motor is a 16T motor. Why can it only handles so many turns?
M05 newbie is offline  
Old 08-12-2015, 09:55 AM
  #25207  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
sakadachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 2,354
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by M05 newbie
What's the deal with the turns. The new motor is a 16T motor. Why can it only handles so many turns?
Current draw. 16turn brushed is quite fast for m-chassis. Might be happy running 27turn brushed (old "stock" motor). Still much faster than silver can.

Why not go with the SportTuned motor? Easy, maintenance free besides oiling, and faster than silver can.

Do you have a comm lathe? If not I recommend you go with the SportTuned.
sakadachi is offline  
Old 08-12-2015, 10:27 AM
  #25208  
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: ontario canada
Posts: 281
Default

Originally Posted by sakadachi
Current draw. 16turn brushed is quite fast for m-chassis. Might be happy running 27turn brushed (old "stock" motor). Still much faster than silver can.

Why not go with the SportTuned motor? Easy, maintenance free besides oiling, and faster than silver can.

Do you have a comm lathe? If not I recommend you go with the SportTuned.
I may take your advice on this because of maintenance reasons. I want a faster car but not so that the gears die every month. What type of oiling would you do for this
M05 newbie is offline  
Old 08-12-2015, 10:42 AM
  #25209  
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
 
hprt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Airdrie, Alberta
Posts: 1,720
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by M05 newbie
Ok that was what I was thinking hprt. Any special soldering tips...first timer here lol mine is soldered to my silver tin can already too.... bullet connectors are gone
The key to soldering is making the joint quickly to minimize the heat affected zone - ie: you don't want to overheat the adjacent components which will risk damaging them. In order to make the solder joint quickly, it is essential to have the right equipment and to prepare the two components being connected.

From an equipment perspective, you need the right iron for the job. If you are soldering components with a large metal area, like the terminals on a speed control with direct connects to the circuit board, you need either a large wattage iron, or one with a medium to large tip that can hold a lot of heat. The wattage of the iron really determines how quickly the tip will heat up, or how quickly the iron will replace the heat transferred to the components. Lower wattage, larger tip works the same as large wattage, smaller tip. For solder, use a good rosin core 60/40 lead-tin thin gauge solder.

make sure that the points of connection are bare and clean, then tin both components to be joined before soldering them together. Keep the tip of your soldering iron clean too, as this helps in quickly transferring heat to the components to be soldered. If you are holding the soldering iron onto the components for more than 20-30 seconds to get the solder to flow, your iron is either not hot enough or not powerful enough.

I hate to say it, but your best reference is to watch a couple videos on youtube.
hprt is offline  
Old 08-12-2015, 10:42 AM
  #25210  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
 
monkeyracing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 6,305
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

A 16t motor won't destroy gears. It has less torque but more speed. I suppose if you crashed into things at that higher speed, there could be some increased "wear". A comm lathe is completely unnecessary, unless your racing and trying to squeeze the last nth from you motor. Keep it clean, it'll be fine.

Sakadachi,there are several things that will help the back of you car loosen up. Reduced toe is just one. There's also stiffer springs, narrower track (not wider), harder tires, slightly higher ride height...lots of little tricks.

Scott, are you on vacation? You're awfully chatty right now.
monkeyracing is offline  
Old 08-12-2015, 10:45 AM
  #25211  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (37)
 
howardcano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 3,784
Trader Rating: 37 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by monkeyracing
A 16t motor won't destroy gears. It has less torque but more speed.
Fewer turns = More torque, higher free-running RPM (Kv rating).

This is assuming the armature or stator is at or near 100% copper (wire) fill.
howardcano is offline  
Old 08-12-2015, 10:46 AM
  #25212  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
sakadachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 2,354
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by M05 newbie
I may take your advice on this because of maintenance reasons. I want a faster car but not so that the gears die every month. What type of oiling would you do for this
As with the silver cans, I just put a drop of bearing oil on the motor bushings from time to time.

Also the Voodoo drops Granpa mentioned cleans the comm so I use that every now and then as well, but not required.

The SportTuned has less torque but higher RPM, which is a good match for these FWD M-chassis for bashing in low to moderate traction surfaces. And they run pretty much forever with little maintenance.
sakadachi is offline  
Old 08-12-2015, 10:53 AM
  #25213  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
sakadachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 2,354
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by monkeyracing

Sakadachi,there are several things that will help the back of you car loosen up. Reduced toe is just one. There's also stiffer springs, narrower track (not wider), harder tires, slightly higher ride height...lots of little tricks.
Thanks, yes, I know. I already tried all that less the harder tires. When you see my SabreFD Mini drive around the track you'd want your car to turn like it does with its stability. The M03 is closest out of my other FWD, but still top heavy. I want that one little extra tweak on the M03 to get at least the similar cornering speed even if it's close to the chassis's limit of losing it all.

My V2 has a lot of work to do.. Thought it was fast until I started messing with the Sabre.
sakadachi is offline  
Old 08-12-2015, 10:54 AM
  #25214  
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
 
hprt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Airdrie, Alberta
Posts: 1,720
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by M05 newbie
I may take your advice on this because of maintenance reasons. I want a faster car but not so that the gears die every month. What type of oiling would you do for this
Gears typically only die when you impact them - just don't hit stuff and the gears will last a while.

using a decent quality, hard coated pinion gear, like the Tamiya 53509, will extend your gear life significantly. Yeah racing also makes one - just be sure you use 0.6 module pinions.

As for the limits of the 101BK ESC, I have personally used it with 19t and 27t brushed open endbell motors. it hit the thermal shutoff about 3 minutes into a 5 minute race with the 19t, but no problems on the 27t. Bashing, you might be OK with the 16t, but the ESC will likely get rather warm - definitely will not be able to run back-to-back without waiting for it to cool down.
hprt is offline  
Old 08-12-2015, 10:56 AM
  #25215  
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
 
hprt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Airdrie, Alberta
Posts: 1,720
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by monkeyracing

Scott, are you on vacation? You're awfully chatty right now.
First time in the last 5 years that I don't have much to do at work. My team has it covered...
hprt is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.