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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 08-09-2015, 04:52 PM
  #25171  
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Oh one more note.. I haven't really done anything special to try to minimize the weights. I added weights to get the car to behave the way they do.
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Old 08-09-2015, 05:26 PM
  #25172  
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Originally Posted by M05 newbie
Hey guys....how many amps can the stock m05 esc handle?? Was looking at a 167 watt motor 30000 rpm and draws 22.5 amps. I have a lipo at 7.4 volts. Just want to make sure I don't have to change the ESC or else I'll just stick with the sport tuned tamiya motor.
Is that the TBLE02-S? If so, they are rated 60A, but when I advance timing on the ReedySonic 35 degrees or more, thing burns up like a toaster and thermal shutdown tries to take over preventing power to the motor at times.

Sonic with stock rotor at zero timing is so slow it feels like a silver can on a 5 cell nimh.. You might want to try getting a 17.5 and run zero timing as I believe the TBLE is rated up to 15.5 or 13.5 turns. Check out Tamiya's site to be sure.


BTW, on my bonestock M05 I went the minimalist approach and got good results:
1. Futaba S9405 servo 0.11sec/60degrees@6v (100oz) ..any fast servo about this spec will do.
2. Spektrum SR410 receiver with DX4S (DX4C).. any decent radio will do.
3. CVA Super Mini dampers + yellow and red springs
4. Tamiya S-grips
5. 2 additional shims inside factory bevel diff for LSD action.
6. Cheap Nicd/Nimh

No ball bearings (plastic bushings worked fine when I was a kid with no money, I see why not now for bashing!), no ball diff, no high torque servo saver, no aluminum bits, nothing. Car isn't a race car by any means, but still drives very well, plenty fast for my kid.

Last edited by sakadachi; 08-09-2015 at 06:53 PM.
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Old 08-10-2015, 05:50 AM
  #25173  
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Lrp F1 16t ball bearing is what I was looking at. 30000 rpm 167 watts. It looks like a decent motor and I don't have the cash for a brushless right now. Any experience with this brand??

What shims and how did u use that for the diff sakadachi?
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Old 08-10-2015, 06:24 AM
  #25174  
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Originally Posted by M05 newbie

What shims and how did u use that for the diff sakadachi?
moneyracing mentioned this a while back and I just tried his recommendation. Here are the 2 shims. You want 2 per side. Ask around for anyone no longer needing their stock diff and ask for the shims. OR, I think you can make them out of thin plastic and place it between the metal shim and plastic housing.

Your goal is to make the bevels bite into each other harder... similar to how the front gear diff is on my CupRacer.



It works very well, actually. Good balldiff alternative if on budget.
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Old 08-10-2015, 07:32 AM
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Well I really wish I tried that with the diff out lol. I'll remember this for sure now lol. Where could I get those washers separately? ?? Don't have any rc friends here with an m05 and the LHS is kind of.... tamiya parts less lol. I'll see if I can get something jimmy rigged in the mean time
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Old 08-10-2015, 07:45 AM
  #25176  
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Originally Posted by M05 newbie
Well I really wish .....
Where could I get those washers separately? ?? ...
PN# 12300010 is the 9mm washer you're looking for, one per package. Probably avail from lots of places, but my LHS wasn't able to get them from their disties, so I ordered from TQ.
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Old 08-10-2015, 07:46 AM
  #25177  
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If you use three shims per side, you can go from stock to locked, or anywhere in between. A tiny add of anti wear grease between the washers keeps them moving. You can even drill a tiny hole in the chassis to allow a #1 Philips to fit in for external adjustments.


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Old 08-10-2015, 08:20 AM
  #25178  
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I would try first a belleville washer there between the sun gear and the stock washer. Tuning with the clamping force of the three screws that go into the plastic housing is inviting trouble.

Don't forget at the same time the more force you put on the sun gears, the more the planetary gears are pushed back against the casing not only upsetting mesh but also rubbing against the plastic.

There you go, some things to work on.
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Old 08-10-2015, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
If you use three shims per side, you can go from stock to locked, or anywhere in between. A tiny add of anti wear grease between the washers keeps them moving. You can even drill a tiny hole in the chassis to allow a #1 Philips to fit in for external adjustments.

Okay, this is cool Will definitely drill a hole during next rebuild on my M05 for sure.
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Old 08-10-2015, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by niznai
I would try first a belleville washer there between the sun gear and the stock washer. Tuning with the clamping force of the three screws that go into the plastic housing is inviting trouble.
Not as much trouble as you'd think. I ran one for a full season and, at the end, it showed minor wear on the shims and none on the case or gears. I think having the three shims per side allows them to move, as there's more friction in the plastic. The gears themselves do see more clamping force, but much less actual rotation and wear.

Just be sure all three screws are tightened very equally. Any imbalance can really screw it up. The adjustment between loose and locked is a single turn, btw.
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Old 08-10-2015, 07:27 PM
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Can't remember who was aking, but here's a picture of the cracked area of my 05 chassis, following this weekend's abuse. I've highlighted the area, so the crack is more easily visible.

Last edited by monkeyracing; 08-12-2017 at 07:34 PM.
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Old 08-11-2015, 12:21 AM
  #25182  
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I have a M05 V1 from Howard C. Thinking of placing my esc on the right side and the rx/transponder on the left. Which is the opposite of the stock configuration. When I had it the stock way it seems that the left side is heavier than the right. Since the esc and it's wires is heavier than most rx nowadays and the motor sticking out some. I was thinking the left side is more heavier. Trying my best to balance things out without using 4 scales. Has anyone switch them and got better results than stock placement[esc/rx]? Thanks in advance on your replies.
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Old 08-11-2015, 04:09 AM
  #25183  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
Can't remember who was aking, but here's a picture of the cracked area of my 05 chassis, following this weekend's abuse. I've highlighted the area, so the crack is more easily visible.
Is that a V2? On the bottom?

On the weekend my v2 chassis cracked on one half of the chassis directly below the gearbox. It allowed the suspension arm to flex and move a fair bit but a bit of fibreglass tape allowed me to finish the second final.
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Old 08-11-2015, 06:48 AM
  #25184  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
Not as much trouble as you'd think. I ran one for a full season and, at the end, it showed minor wear on the shims and none on the case or gears. I think having the three shims per side allows them to move, as there's more friction in the plastic. The gears themselves do see more clamping force, but much less actual rotation and wear.

Just be sure all three screws are tightened very equally. Any imbalance can really screw it up. The adjustment between loose and locked is a single turn, btw.
Hence the problem.

The system works as long as the screw holes don't wear either, which can't be long if you keep adjusting the diff. You probably didn't adjust the diff much, but I've had those holes strip with ease (I am not ham fisted). Once the balance in tightness is out, so is the diff.
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Old 08-11-2015, 07:33 AM
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Then you try the ball diff, with a similar problem. Keeping that thing in the optimum setting was ridiculous on carpet. We had a very stupid rule up here, Tamiya only drive trains (even tho we have nothing to do with Tamiya lol), but thankfully that rule is done, and we all enjoy the 3 racing oil diff. Choose your oil and forget it, LOVE it.

The only Tamiya solution that I didn't mind was the putty in the gear diff. I know some had issues with it oozing out the outdrive holes once it started to break down, but I never did. I used some cheap crappy poster putter from the local crafts place, to make it almost a locked diff. The handling was sometimes a handful, but the drive out of the corners made the car a rocket. But it did take some maintenance for sure. The 3 racing diff, I am amazed I haven't had to open mine up since I first bought it. I filled it with 500k weight and its been fast whenever I run it
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