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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 07-12-2015, 03:37 PM
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Begin with the long steering connector rod removed

Make sure your servo is centered, using your radio settings. No trim or sub trim.

Place the servo saver on so it is as close to 90* perpendicular to the servo body as possible, pointed off to the right side of the car.

Set the steering rack so the main cross piece is as centered as possible.

With the servo powered up, so it doesn't move, test fit the connector rod. Did the center rack piece have to move left or right to accommodate it?

If yes, adjust the length of the rod. Re-test

If no, be happy and be sure you're outer steering linkages are equal.
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Old 07-12-2015, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
Begin with the long steering connector rod removed

Make sure your servo is centered, using your radio settings. No trim or sub trim.

Place the servo saver on so it is as close to 90* perpendicular to the servo body as possible, pointed off to the right side of the car.

Set the steering rack so the main cross piece is as centered as possible.

With the servo powered up, so it doesn't move, test fit the connector rod. Did the center rack piece have to move left or right to accommodate it?

If yes, adjust the length of the rod. Re-test

If no, be happy and be sure you're outer steering linkages are equal.
Yup reading that I just realized what I did wrong. A few things lol.. I knew that something wasn't right because my linkages were very off to keep the wheels pointed straight. Thanks monkey!!

Now what is better toe in or toe out?? Straight driving in parking lots for speed right now with some windy parts that I make up in my head lol. But what's the better...FWD as a tech is usually toe out because of the pull in from the drive train in the front when accelerating.


And side note....what's the stock m05 motor rated at. Looking for a quick pick up for some more get up and go...
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Old 07-12-2015, 04:32 PM
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A degree of toe out will probably cover your needs. The stock silver can is a 27T brushed. The brushless equivalent would be around 2200kv. That would be a 0 timing 17.5 or a 21.5 with some timing dialed in.
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Old 07-12-2015, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by axle182
Finding time can be tough, and reminding myself of what is important can be tough, but compromising, and SCHEDULING has worked very well.

Something that worked very well for me - Those nights that you have to spend in the garage getting your next car ready? Don't work on it in the garage. Get a serving tray, and work on the coffee table. You can be with your loved ones at the same time as you get your cars ready
That is a very smart idea indeed. My wife gets kind of jealous when I am spending a lot of time in the garage. She said she is happy ("happy", her words) when I am in the basement tinkering and playing with my RC cars because she knows that I am inside the house and can see me any time. Plus she does not have to worry that I might get into a car accident.
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Old 07-12-2015, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
A degree of toe out will probably cover your needs. The stock silver can is a 27T brushed. The brushless equivalent would be around 2200kv. That would be a 0 timing 17.5 or a 21.5 with some timing dialed in.
First off....0 timing 17.5 or 21.5.....what are thes?
And I can get a 20T motor for 20 bucks at work. It's Brushed and should be a straight swap no esc needed.. should I do it. Need a little more get up and go in this thing
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Old 07-12-2015, 04:50 PM
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This is one of my old bodies, but don't you hate it when this happens?
You spent so much time masking and painting and decal-ing..



How's this for a quick fix?



This is what I used, trimmed off about 0.8mm width:


If one doesn't trim, it looks like this.. LOL



The trick is to stretch while applying.
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Old 07-12-2015, 05:05 PM
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Ok guys. What is the deal with 2s 3s 4s 5s lipo batteries? If I'm looking at a 3700 kv brushless am I going to need a new battery...what kind and why. What about a 5700kv brushless motor? Any thoughts?
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Old 07-12-2015, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by M05 newbie
Ok guys. What is the deal with 2s 3s 4s 5s lipo batteries? If I'm looking at a 3700 kv brushless am I going to need a new battery...what kind and why. What about a 5700kv brushless motor? Any thoughts?
The 2s 3s etc just designate the voltage/current the batteries put out
You'll be wanting to stick with 2s (7.4vdc)
If my memory is working, 3s is about 10-11vdc which is nfg for your mini
Try to get a battery that has a good c rating which is the max current output for
That battery, one of the other guys (axle, monk or granpa) could explain it better that
I could cuz I don't really comprend the designator myself
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Old 07-12-2015, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by KA2AEV
The 2s 3s etc just designate the voltage/current the batteries put out
You'll be wanting to stick with 2s (7.4vdc)
If my memory is working, 3s is about 10-11vdc which is nfg for your mini
Try to get a battery that has a good c rating which is the max current output for
That battery, one of the other guys (axle, monk or granpa) could explain it better that
I could cuz I don't really comprend the designator myself
I gave a 2s 20c. It works but I'm looking into a brushless. Possibly 3700 kv or 5700 kv.
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Old 07-12-2015, 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by KA2AEV
The 2s 3s etc just designate the voltage/current the batteries put out
You'll be wanting to stick with 2s (7.4vdc)
If my memory is working, 3s is about 10-11vdc which is nfg for your mini
Try to get a battery that has a good c rating which is the max current output for
That battery, one of the other guys (axle, monk or granpa) could explain it better that
I could cuz I don't really comprend the designator myself
Actually the guy who could answer that the best is Howard Cano. He's an old time oval racer and those guys really knew batteries.

There doesn't seem to be an industry standard on the C rating, so at times can be misleading when comparing different makers.

And if you're planning on a 5700kv motor, buy parts. Lots of extra parts.
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Old 07-12-2015, 06:09 PM
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Originally Posted by M05 newbie
I gave a 2s 20c. It works but I'm looking into a brushless. Possibly 3700 kv or 5700 kv.
20C is like old NiCd territory discharge rate (a weak one at that). You'll want something more like 60C and above if you want full power to your brushless.

Discharge rate is one of the key elements of providing consistent power to your motor. In a nutshell, higher is better as you have more headroom.
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Old 07-12-2015, 06:20 PM
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Just remember NewBie, The one thing I do know is that the higher the C rating the larger and heavier the battery is
So you'll have to find a happy medium
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Old 07-12-2015, 06:20 PM
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When referring to 17.5 and 21.5, I was referring to brushless motors. Specifically, the number of winds (turns out just "t") of wire in the more. A general rule of thumb is lower turns equal faster top end, but with lower torque. There is a difference in the way brushed and brushless motors produce power, so, to get the same speed from a brushless motor, you need to get one with fewer winds. EG: when we switched from stock 27t brushed motors, to get the same speed, we went with an 18t, zero timing motor. The same speed could likely also be found in a 17.5t motor with no timing, or with a 21.5t with the timing adjusted on the endbell.

Batteries. When one says a battery is 2s, 3s, etc, they are referring to the number of cells in the battery. Lithium polymer (lipo) cells charge to 4.2 volts per cell, so a typical 2s battery as used in a mini, will produce 8.4v. A 3s battery will charge to 12.6v. You have to be sure your electronics can handle what you plug them into, so if you decide to go with a bigger battery, check the specs on your ESC, etc. If you end up racing, there will likely be a requirement that batteries are 2s only.

The C rating is a way to describe the maximum power the battery can give you all at once. Eg: a 4000mah battery, rated at 30c, is capable of supplying 120 amps of power. 4000mah (milliamp hours) equals 4ah (amp hours), so 4 x 30 = 120, or 120amps. Note, a typical mini draws WAY less power than that.

Pizza time!

Last edited by monkeyracing; 07-12-2015 at 06:31 PM.
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Old 07-12-2015, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by KA2AEV
Just remember NewBie, The one thing I do know is that the higher the C rating the larger and heavier the battery is
So you'll have to find a happy medium
Shorty! I think eR1c was running those 100C Shorty's...if 2S.

pizza time sounds great, monkeyracing!
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Old 07-12-2015, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing

Pizza time!
Thanks for that Monk,
I owe you another Brew when I get out your way
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