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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 07-11-2015, 10:05 AM
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Sadly, companies use a few different systems to rate the viscosity of their fluids. Some just make up their own. The 500,000wt silicone is delving into warm Silly Putty territory, not sure about 4,000-5,000 stuff. I've got some10,000 in my diff now, that seems thinner than the 100 in my crawler shocks. Sorry to create confusion, but hey, it's the weekend and I need some fun.

If you want heavy stuff in your diff, Kyosho, or Gravity are likely your best bet. Warning, this stuff is STICKY. It's like working with cold honey. Watch this video for tips. http://youtu.be/SmfInldgGsc
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Old 07-11-2015, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
Sadly, companies use a few different systems to rate the viscosity of their fluids. Some just make up their own. The 500,000wt silicone is delving into warm Silly Putty territory, not sure about 4,000-5,000 stuff. I've got some10,000 in my diff now, that seems thinner than the 100 in my crawler shocks. Sorry to create confusion, but hey, it's the weekend and I need some fun.

If you want heavy stuff in your diff, Kyosho, or Gravity are likely your best bet. Warning, this stuff is STICKY. It's like working with cold honey. Watch this video for tips. http://youtu.be/SmfInldgGsc
Thanks, monkeyracing. That's what I thought because AE's 5000 isn't super tight but it is like 5x thicker than Tamiya's blue shock oil which is their thickest. It makes the gear diff about as stiff as my ball diff in my V2, maybe slightly less friction but it is a good weighted feel.

So I couldn't image what a 500K or whatever people posted would be like. Just use a spool, kind of.
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Old 07-11-2015, 12:59 PM
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The thicker you go the more pull out of corners and the more stable the car will feel but it's a massive trade off to steering/response. Using the kit diff was awesome on tight technical parts of our track and I needed very little brake however the car takes ages to get up to speed. Like any car tuning its finding the sweet spot that suits your track and driving style.
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Old 07-11-2015, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Team_Krusty
The thicker you go the more pull out of corners and the more stable the car will feel but it's a massive trade off to steering/response. Using the kit diff was awesome on tight technical parts of our track and I needed very little brake however the car takes ages to get up to speed. Like any car tuning its finding the sweet spot that suits your track and driving style.
Yeah, for most of my driving I need the tight turn radius and only a moderately tight diff action.
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Old 07-11-2015, 05:34 PM
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K so I have an issue when I turn from left to right at a stand still it doesn't turn back to Centre right away. I haven't driven it yet as I've been busy with the family but it seems to stay to the right. Any adjustments I can look for or do?? Or is that normal?
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Old 07-11-2015, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by M05 newbie
K so I have an issue when I turn from left to right at a stand still it doesn't turn back to Centre right away. I haven't driven it yet as I've been busy with the family but it seems to stay to the right. Any adjustments I can look for or do?? Or is that normal?
If your servo is weak and using the standard servo saver that's kinda 'normal'..you will need to move forward/aft for the servo to center again.

You'll want to get the high torque servo saver or the Kimbroughs. Either works on the M05's with no mod (V2 comes with the Tamiya high torque servo saver, works great), but down the road, upgrade your servo too.

Which radio do you have? If your radio has servo speed feature, might want to get the fastest servo you can afford and dial the speed down to your preference. I like my Spektrum S6040 and S6070's, along with my Futaba S9452, and usually use about 60-80% of the speed for turn, and 100% for return.

Slow servo's suck because you're stuck with that one slow rate.
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Old 07-11-2015, 06:18 PM
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So I was playing with my CupRacer today (runs Tamiya Rover Mini body, ofcourse!) and been noticing my
TBLE02-S ESC gets really hot after 10min of driving in my tiny track. Not too much braking applied, but
just overall a lot of work for this ESC on this chassis.

My other chassis do not cause the ESC to get this hot. Anyway, I have some old Novak ESC's from back
in the day so removed the heatsinks and placed them over the TBLE's heatsinks.

For those that use this ESC and would like to add a fan for cheap, here it goes...




Then placed a MuchMore Racing 30mm fan like so...and screwed it down using small tapping screws.



I think these screws came with my Spektrum servos... anything small enough to fit between the fins will work.




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Old 07-11-2015, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by sakadachi
If your servo is weak and using the standard servo saver that's kinda 'normal'..you will need to move forward/aft for the servo to center again.

You'll want to get the high torque servo saver or the Kimbroughs. Either works on the M05's with no mod (V2 comes with the Tamiya high torque servo saver, works great), but down the road, upgrade your servo too.

Which radio do you have? If your radio has servo speed feature, might want to get the fastest servo you can afford and dial the speed down to your preference. I like my Spektrum S6040 and S6070's, along with my Futaba S9452, and usually use about 60-80% of the speed for turn, and 100% for return.

Slow servo's suck because you're stuck with that one slow rate.
Acoms 2.4ghz technisport. It's nice. And I thjnk it has another servo in the box. Never had that problem before. I have a servo saver on there too so maybe that's what the deal is. The servo is an acoms as17. Ever heard of it??? I might change it out and see if the problem is still there. Should they make any noise not moving. I have a buzzing sound from the car...haven't zoned in on it yet as I just finished getting it to even move lol.
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Old 07-11-2015, 06:48 PM
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Digital servos do hum a little as they constantly try to center.
Might be that you are hearing.

Make sure your steering linkage is not binding anywhere. Just undo the ball joint and move it by hand to verify.

Usually though, centering problems are caused by weak servo savers that are worn from use or permaturely damaged by improper EPA setting.
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Old 07-11-2015, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by M05 newbie
K so I have an issue when I turn from left to right at a stand still it doesn't turn back to Centre right away. I haven't driven it yet as I've been busy with the family but it seems to stay to the right. Any adjustments I can look for or do?? Or is that normal?
Look for something binding In the steering linkage
Specifically id look at the ball joints where the linkage is connected, something sounds
Like its stuffed on too tight
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Old 07-11-2015, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by KA2AEV
Look for something binding In the steering linkage
Specifically id look at the ball joints where the linkage is connected, something sounds
Like its stuffed on too tight
I think it's the linkage. I'll check it tn. Update to follow
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Old 07-11-2015, 07:11 PM
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Here's the spec on your acoms servo.

Dimensions (mm): 18.0 x 38.0 x 37.0h
Weight (grams): 36.0
Speed (sec): 0.22 at 6v?
Torque (Kg.cm): 2.9

You'll want to upgrade. S6040 is like 0.08sec at 6v and much more torque (12kg) and priced economically.
https://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/...odID=SPMSS6040

I believe JR makes these for Spektrum.
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Old 07-11-2015, 07:16 PM
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In comparison, I use this cheap Futaba digital servo in my M03 right now as my kid wanted to play with it too. It 'works' but slow. I just hate slow weak servo's because you can't really do anything from here. You're just stuck with slow and weak.

S3151 Digital standard servo
Torque: 6.0V: 54.0 oz-in (3.89 kg-cm)
Speed: 6.0V: 0.17 sec/60
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Old 07-11-2015, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Team_Krusty
Never tried them mate but yeah they would give a fraction more entry steering but also wear a little quicker. I'd be more inclined to drop the oil weight in the diff as a first try. Maybe down to 80-100k. I'm really happy with 30k

I've got some 100k I can bring to the track tomorrow.

Simon
Thanks Krusty. Sorry I missed you today, I could only stay until 11. I will grab some oil this week and see how it goes.

I changed my front springs to be softer and that has given me a bit more steering.
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Old 07-11-2015, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by sakadachi
So I was playing with my CupRacer today (runs Tamiya Rover Mini body, ofcourse!) and been noticing my
TBLE02-S ESC gets really hot after 10min of driving in my tiny track. Not too much braking applied, but
just overall a lot of work for this ESC on this chassis.

My other chassis do not cause the ESC to get this hot. Anyway, I have some old Novak ESC's from back
in the day so removed the heatsinks and placed them over the TBLE's heatsinks.

For those that use this ESC and would like to add a fan for cheap, here it goes...

Then placed a MuchMore Racing 30mm fan like so...and screwed it down using small tapping screws.

I think these screws came with my Spektrum servos... anything small enough to fit between the fins will work.
Have you ever tried these ESC's with brushless motor? What amp rating do they have?
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