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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 07-03-2015, 03:36 PM
  #24301  
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Hey anyone from Canada use the website asiatees.com?? It seems to be a lot cheaper than most. Little bit Sketchy about everything on the Internet so some past experience would be good to hear lol. The have the reinforced gears and ball diff on there from 3 racing. Good call or no?
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Old 07-03-2015, 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Granpa
Curious to see how you measure the ride height of the M03. It's probably cause I don't understand the method, but when I try it, the actual ride height is more like 8mm. That's a guess cause I don't have anything to measure ride height that goes that high.

Perhaps you could post some pictures of your M03 with a 10mm ride height. Mine looks ridiculous.
I look at the car from the side, place the ruler on the other side of the car, squat down eye-level to my workbench and just eyeball the lowest point of the chassis. It's not accurate but a good reference. I don't think ride height measurement alone is that important. Rake is important, but again, the key gauge I use is that the car drives properly.

But when I checked my M03's ride height today I remembered that I added rake a month or so ago before I bought my Mini-Z's and the front was much lower (5mm). I completely forgot about it. Kinda embarrassed!
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Old 07-03-2015, 04:01 PM
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I drove my SabreFD Mini back to back with my V2 today using Lipo's.

I've had the V2 for a while and have it dialed in, so the V2 drove like 10x smoother than my Sabre Mini (and much quieter!) SabreMini's characteristic reminds me of a M03 without the top heaviness, so I think it has potential.

The faster I took the corners the more the Sabre hopped, so lowered to the yellow oil on all 4 corners. Still hopped a little, so tilted the dampers all the way on all 4 corners. Made a big difference as expected. I still need to do the front/rear weight balance as it has a slight push-under (plows under throttle) bias. The car behaves as if it has an open diff even though it's got ball diffs.

At the moment, my V2 is still the king to me.
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Old 07-03-2015, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
Alberta is like Texas north, minus the guns. We've got oil, beef, real beer and drunken fists of fury, tempered by a pathological Canadian urge to apologize, whether you get hit or not.
Sorry abutt dat eh?

Did I say that right?
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Old 07-03-2015, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by M05 newbie
Hey anyone from Canada use the website asiatees.com?? It seems to be a lot cheaper than most. Little bit Sketchy about everything on the Internet so some past experience would be good to hear lol. The have the reinforced gears and ball diff on there from 3 racing. Good call or no?
Have you tried TQ RC Racing? They're pretty good, in N. America and have the cheapest shipping from an US supplier I've ever seen. After that RC Mart tends to carry the most stock. I've ordered from Asiatees a few times and found them reliable, if a little slow.

Originally Posted by KA2AEV
Sorry abutt dat eh?

Did I say that right?
Ever seen the movie Fargo? Imagine the North Dakota accent tinged with a hint of Kermit the Frog and you've got the Canadian prairies covered.
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Old 07-03-2015, 07:09 PM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing



Ever seen the movie Fargo? Imagine the North Dakota accent tinged with a hint of Kermit the Frog and you've got the Canadian prairies covered.

Okayyyyy then, gotta go back and watch it then
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Old 07-03-2015, 07:13 PM
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Hahahaha eh? Amazing. Gets me everytime!! Ok I'll check tq racing monkey. Thanks.
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Old 07-03-2015, 07:24 PM
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Hey guys I have another diff question. I was reading more on diffs and I've heard that ball diffs are more high maintenance than gear diffs. Which is a better diff considering I have an incredibly busy life with the wife and kids and don't have time to pull the diff out to adjust it and replace balls all the time. What are the major differences between the 2 and which is better.

Also how hard is it to get the diff out.....big job?? First time pulling it out.....lol don't even.....lol
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Old 07-03-2015, 07:40 PM
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On a FWD car, ball diff, imho, is a must unless you shim up your bevel gear diff to simulate a limited slip differential.

Even if you're just driving around at a parking lot course or just around cones with your friends, having ball diffs will give you that edge where you can power out of turns instead of just understeering and getting reminded each time why people in the real car world make fun of FWD cars with open diffs.

It's not a huge pain to maintain them, but you will have to crack open your M05 each time to take it out and clean, re-grease, inspect, etc. It's a good time to check your idler gear too as that gear is the first to go for me, as well as my pinion.
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Old 07-03-2015, 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by caltek1
The TOP Sabre mini is loud. I can not get the noise to lessen. I did ake my own lexan over for the side gear and the front, to prevent little stones from destroying the gears though.
I used the supplied springs and set my ride height 5.2 mm front and 5.6mm rear, 1.5 degree front camber and 2 degree rear. 350 or 400 oil and 3hole pistons. I use a short pack lipo and added the alloy steering hopup. I also fitted the TOP racing oil gear diff with 300k oil.
Car is very easy to drive quickly and tracks very straight. I also pur hased the front alloy knuckles, but they are still in my pit box. I fitted sweep 40 front and sweep 25 rear. I also added lead to the chassis to get the car to have more front bite.
I also have the TOP Sabre 4wd car, just not completed or run yet.
Regards
Calvin
Calvin- Thanks again for your tips. I haven't added weights to the front of my SabreFD Mini, but playing with just ride height, I got the front to bite well at about 5.5mm front and 10mm rear. Once I got the car hooked up, this thing is FAST!

Up next, I'm going to tighten the ball diff just a tad more.

Obviously styling is also a big deal for me. Even with the tall ride height on the rear, the car looks normal like this.

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Old 07-03-2015, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by sakadachi
On a FWD car, ball diff, imho, is a must unless you shim up your bevel gear diff to simulate a limited slip differential.

Even if you're just driving around at a parking lot course or just around cones with your friends, having ball diffs will give you that edge where you can power out of turns instead of just understeering and getting reminded each time why people in the real car world make fun of FWD cars with open diffs.

It's not a huge pain to maintain them, but you will have to crack open your M05 each time to take it out and clean, re-grease, inspect, etc. It's a good time to check your idler gear too as that gear is the first to go for me, as well as my pinion.
Funny you that's what always goes first lol......mine just shat the bed too lol thus why I might aswell upgrade the diff while I'm there right? How long does a diff replace take??
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Old 07-03-2015, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by M05 newbie
Funny you that's what always goes first lol......mine just shat the bed too lol thus why I might aswell upgrade the diff while I'm there right? How long does a diff replace take??
Yeah, whenever my gearbox starts to make loud gear noises it's usually time to replace the idler gear. I just swap the entire gear set less the ball diff gear.

Replacing the diff itself initially from bevel to ball diff goes real quick. I would say no more than 30min start to finish including the diff assembly. But if you need to rebuild the diff, that can take another 15-30min depending on how thorough you go through the rebuild.

It's not how fast one goes through the process though. There are several different ball diffs that fit the M05. I've tried the Manta Ray one, TA03 one, and the M05 one. The MantaRay and TA03 are considered more robust for those that want the diff SUPER tight.

I don't like my ball diffs so tight as it causes understeer during off throttle. So for me, any of the 3 works but the MantaRay one's splines broke on the pressure plate within 6 months. I only run the TA03 diff and the M05 ball diffs right now in my Tamiya's.
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Old 07-03-2015, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by sakadachi
Yeah, whenever my gearbox starts to make loud gear noises it's usually time to replace the idler gear. I just swap the entire gear set less the ball diff gear.

Replacing the diff itself initially from bevel to ball diff goes real quick. I would say no more than 30min start to finish including the diff assembly. But if you need to rebuild the diff, that can take another 15-30min depending on how thorough you go through the rebuild.

It's not how fast one goes through the process though. There are several different ball diffs that fit the M05. I've tried the Manta Ray one, TA03 one, and the M05 one. The MantaRay and TA03 are considered more robust for those that want the diff SUPER tight.

I don't like my ball diffs so tight as it causes understeer during off throttle. So for me, any of the 3 works but the MantaRay one's splines broke on the pressure plate within 6 months. I only run the TA03 diff and the M05 ball diffs right now in my Tamiya's.

So the TA03 diff is the tamiya m05???I'm confused on the 2 of them?
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Old 07-03-2015, 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by M05 newbie
So the TA03 diff is the tamiya m05???I'm confused on the 2 of them?
2 totally different diffs. Do yourself a favor and go to the TQracing website and go thru the Parts list for the M05. This will probably answer 90% of your parts questions.
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Old 07-03-2015, 11:02 PM
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The 3racing gear diff is awesome aswell it is sealed so you can run silicone oils in the diff once you find diff oil that works for you its pretty much maintenance free and butter smooth considering high tech touring cars use oil filled gear diffs now instead of ball diffs i think this is the best option for the mini aswell unless of course you gotta run tamiya only parts. But if its open the 3racing gear diff is perfect
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