AngryRog

iTrader: (20)

This ^^^ Thorpe/Mip tools have been great!

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

Awesome to hear! Can't wait to get my hands on my MIP on Sunday. Start building my Sabre.

heretic

I seriously doubt Hudy would outsource their tool manufacturing.

That said, MIP Thorpes blow Hudy tools out of the water, no questions. And that's coming from a self-avowed fanboy of the Xray/Hudy quality. Hudy drivers are really good, but MIPs are just incredibly good.

Now, will some MIP drivers be enough to enjoy building a Sabre? I'm not sure. If your kit is anything like the TOPs I've built, then their marshmallow-soft screws will really spoil the build. Just curious, what Sabre is it that you're building ?

axle182

iTrader: (18)

In the case of soft screws, I cant recommend a thread tap enough, on a new build. I've built hundreds of new kits, and used high grade screws, and have had a few bad screws really slow you down when trying to screw into new plastic. I started to use a thread tap on new parts, and its amazing. So much easier to put together! Ebay has any size you need, dirt cheap.

Granpa

In total agreement. It's probably better not to thread the holes all the way thru though. I generally just tap the first 1/2 to 3/4 and self tap the last bit.

For a mini, you only need a 3mm tap. So with a tap handle and tap, it will only set you back a few $$$ and make life so much more pleasant on the initial and subsequent maintenance builds.

While you are there, acquiring a 3mm die is a good step. I use it to clean the loctite off screws and clean up screws that have been shortened.

niznai

I don't like tapping plastic, and I don't think it was designed to be tapped. Once opened up it's too easy to strip. I think driving the screw in drives the plastic around the thread and provides better friction because the plastic remains tight. With a tap, you actually cut the plastic and all the friction is generated by tightening the screw as hard as you dare. When the plastic gives, you've got to replace the part. I know that Tamiya's philips head screws are a pain to drive in, but I use an allen head socket screw to create the thread. That gives better purchase with a strong driver, and you don't have to push down like a possessed maniac to prevent the screwdriver jumping out. Don't use the philips heads in assembly much either. Prefer pan head or countersunk allen screws for ease of maintenance (same driver does both, saves dicking around with two drivers).

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

When it comes to our Tamiya Minis I agree w/ you and tend to go this route too. As long as your careful, work slowly and don't over-tighten you tend to be okay.

There are other kits where it is almost necessary to pre thread, yet for our Minis I've not found that to be the case either.

Sounds like there are two ways of doing this though.

axle182

iTrader: (18)

Sorry should have explained more, I don't fully tap some parts, I mostly start the threads with the tap, and I am yet to have a single part strip due to the tap taking out more material than what its required for the screw thread. I do fully tap in some instances, it made the build a lot easier, and I am yet to wreck a part. Touch wood

Rodarbal

iTrader: (49)

Agreed here. The ABS that the M-0x chassis are molded from is more compliant and doesn't necessarily need tapping, although it does make life easier for machine screws, especially if you're going right to hex-head M3 screws during the initial build. Other impact resistant and reinforced plastics absolutely need to be tapped, IMO. If you've ever built a 3Racing Sakura touring or drift car you know.

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

-yes, the "other" kits I am referring to would be a Team Xray X1 I just put together ...I think the composite plastic pieces require tapping. Maybe w/ the mini I've just gotten lucky not tapping! --or am lazy?!

axle182

iTrader: (18)

The self tapping coarse thread cross head screws supplied with the kit usually don't need tapping. We were referring to new kits, and the addition of a new set of hex head machine screws. These can be near impossible to thread into a new plastic piece at times. The hole size in the piece is designed for a good hold on the supplied screws (coarse thread), and isn't large enough for a machine screw. Using a tap, you open up the hole while adding clean threads to allow the machine screw to fit properly. Again, I usually don't tap the entire length of the hole. I tap enough, to ensure I wont round a hex while trying to thread it in a new part.

Don't get me wrong, its not a pure necessity to do this, I've built a few kits right before a race meet with no tap, and no patience lol (remember that Jim? TT-01 from PM on the way to Karz), but when I spend the time to put a kit together, I'll use the tap

Granpa

You are also correct. I forgot to mention that I throw out the original Tamiya self tapping screws and replace with button head machine screws. The problem here is that machine screws are not designed to be self tapping and on most screws much over 6mm in length it's very difficult to drive the screws all the way in. This will, of course, lead to difficulty in ascertaining if the the screw is "snug" and can lead to loose assembly even though the screw feels tight.

However, with that being said, tapping all the way will lead to stripped screws if you aren't careful. I sort of split the middle and tap part way to achieve the ease of assembly and the tight fit.

As in all things we have or own unique way of doing things and if it's been a successful technique for the builder, I'm not one to be too critical. In this case I prefer AJ's method over driving or forcing the screw into the plastic. Driving a 10mm machine screw till it's snug makes horrible "cracking" sounds sometimes and quite often the screw will become very hot. There are about 20 screws of 10mm length in a Mini and driving all those screws in is quite an exercise. Maybe I'm just weak.

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

-ah, my mistake ...didn't realize this was the case. Yes, I am using the Tamiya "screws" not after market button head machine "hex" screws. ...now that makes sense why you would need to tap the holes.

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

I just use the screws that come with the kit. Works fine for me.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

I remember Aaron. Too funny! Did pretty well, as I recall.

My advice for tapping 3mm threads: don't buy the Dubro tap at your LHS! They're slightly oversized and leave everything too loose.