bmxcrx

iTrader: (12)

Saw that Facebook post too. Maybe it's the speed from the 13T motors those guys run?

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

I guess HPI's bread fell butter side down.

The only part I've broken on my v2 (twice) isn't even v2 specific. I keep breaking the rear suspension plate. The v2 does look weak just under the battery/motor area, but I haven't seen one break yet and I crash lots. LOTS.

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

Monkeyracing - hahaha!!

marcos graveyar

I've been using the 3Racing M05 cooling fan for a while, works well for me with my black can/nimh set-up, don't know what it would be like with brushless/lipo though.

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

macros- Looks good! Would you please post up a few pictures of your bumper and mount? Is that a custom mount you made? I wanted to get something like that for my V2 as well.

Blui3

It's not how fast it goes. Its how fast it stops.

Daughters v2 and she has learnt to stop fast but no broken chassis.

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

-thanks for sharing.

BILKO1

I use the 3 racing mount to but with a yeah racing tornado fan.

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

i do like those CF fan mounts ...my temps are around 140degrees ...which isn't bad and my car feels strong/but if I can get it to run even cooler!


I may have to try this out ...

KA2AEV

iTrader: (1)

Damn! A pink farm truck! Watch out for her!

marcos graveyar

It's an off the shelf 3Racing part, I just made the foam piece a bit larger.


This is as it comes, #M05-04


Fits on in place of the original Tamiya C2 part.


I made my foam piece bigger in every way for more protection all round.








It definitely added life to my MINI Coupe shell, I got three indoor seasons and one outdoor season out of it before I retired it.

toroloco

Hi,

Where do You guy's measure the front ride height becauce the chassi is not flat?

Thanks

Claude

sakadachi

iTrader: (1)

Thank you, marcos!! Very nice.

Yeah, I was looking at the bottom of your chassis and yes you did push the car pretty hard. That's a good thing, these cars are made to drive.

Thanks again.

Granpa

Yeah, that can be a problem, but most of the guys seem to use the lowest point at the front of the chassis. This is at or near the motor. The rear is measured by most at the rear of the chassis.

When you think about it though, it's really unimportant in setting up your car as long as you measure yours the same way each time. From the different techniques for measuring, most are pretty inaccurate. Most of the time, the measurement at the front of the chassis is pretty suspect since most guys use a ride height gauge. Most of these cannot measure the ride height accurately on a Mini.

You will find that when the stated ride height is 5mm, it can be as little as 3mm or as much as 6-7mm. Unless you measure using the same technique, the same point, and the same make of ride height gauge, you will probably not duplicate a stated ride height.

The actual overall ride height, within reason, seems to be less important than the variance between the front and rear ride heights. For example, if it's best to run your car with the same ride height front and rear, using whatever measuring criteria, a variance of 1mm either way will make less difference than a variance of 1mm at either end of the car.

eR1c

iTrader: (2)

-this is what I do and recommend. It isn't difficult, just be sure to always measure from the same areas/locations of the chassis or inner area of the arms front and back.
I put a piece of tape on the bottom of my chassis to keep dirt from getting in (along the bottom where the chassis halves come together). I can see if the chassis is too low if the tape is shredded or scuffed. Using this technique I've been able to keep my car as low as possible w/o it touching the ground and still getting good shock travel/rebound.