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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 04-01-2015, 09:15 AM
  #23266  
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Great info! Thank you all!

I will try some things and report back.

caltek1: so, I should definitely get the softer spring set? Luckily I don't think I over shimmed it, but that rear toe block and maybe one other area. Will adjust controller settings too, for sure. That makes sense, and a good tip!
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Old 04-01-2015, 09:20 AM
  #23267  
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Tony! So happy to a little chunk of rc-mini back on the web! So glad I downloaded the entire website when I had the chance. It's still relevant!

Any updates to cover brushless motors and oil filled diffs? I was thinking hammers and bile, but would value your input.
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Old 04-01-2015, 09:34 AM
  #23268  
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Glad Calvin responded to your queries cause the rules he's complying to would be closer to what you'll probably be doing than the more restrictive TCS rules I'm used to. In case you're wondering, he's a pretty experienced and successful Mini racer and a thoughtful set up guy. Just remember that Mini set ups are integrated and everything works together as a group and things are done so that you can achieve certain desirable characteristics.

For example you may want to run a rear roll bar to achieve a more aggressive front end by controlling roll with a rear roll bar. This will let you soften to front suspension so you get a more aggressive bite without having the front end flop over on you. However you may want to "deaden" the front by going stiff in front springing which case you may want to go with a front roll bar and not the rear or both F/R depending on what you're trying to achieve.

It sounds as if you have some TC knowledge so don't let that confuse you. The M05 and the v2 are a little closer to a TC than the M03, but a lot of the TC tuning tricks are not transferable and will go against everything you know. The best example of this is the shim out all the slop deal. Minis tend to run best with a little slop.

The springs set that seems to the more useful in a Mini is the #53333 set and as Calvin said the plastic steering linkages work fine till you smack something. Then you'll tweak the right bell crank and the car just won't steer right and at times go absolutely berserk. Here again buy the good Tamiya set cause the aftermarket stuff I've seen just does not hold up well and gets loose.

I stopped giving set ups some time ago, but I'll make an exception here. this is just to get you started in the right direction and by no means will be the ultimate set up for your track conditions or your driving style.

shocks-----56 to 56.5mm, zero rebound, 40wt Losi or 30wt associated oil, 3 hole piston
springs------yellow or red front, blue rear from the #53333 spring set.
the springs in the kit and the springs that came wit the shocks are too stiff for your track conditions
Rear roll bar------start with the heavy one
ride height-----5mm all around. You can adjust driving characteristics by motor boating or stink bugging the ride heights.
toe out-----easiest way to set it is run the car and add toe out till it will run straight. You adjust from this setting. Less toe out for quicker steering and more for slower
Rear blocks-----stock with 1.5 degree of rear camber
Tire-----harder ones in front. I'm too cheap to tire tune cause it gets expensive real fast. I generally use the same insert all around a change my car set up
Transmitter settings-----start here and adjust to suit. 20% negative expo. servo speed 80% turn in and 90 to 100% on the second half. 100% on the return. steering throw should be less than max, but don't have a number to give you cause it will vary from car to car
Shock angles and placement will need to be addressed when you add the option shock towers.

This stuff will supplement Calvin's advice. We probably both forgot stuff, but hope this helps.

See, told ya-----all Minis are tweaked. You can adjust out the tweak
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Old 04-01-2015, 09:46 AM
  #23269  
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Holy molly cows... $29 for M01 body posts?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-SP-65...item23465566fb
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Old 04-01-2015, 12:23 PM
  #23270  
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20 years worth of dust adds to the value.
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Old 04-01-2015, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
20 years worth of dust adds to the value.
I suppose so! Hahaha!!
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Old 04-01-2015, 03:30 PM
  #23272  
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Originally Posted by Granpa
Glad Calvin responded to your queries cause the rules he's complying to would be closer to what you'll probably be doing than the more restrictive TCS rules I'm used to. In case you're wondering, he's a pretty experienced and successful Mini racer and a thoughtful set up guy. Just remember that Mini set ups are integrated and everything works together as a group and things are done so that you can achieve certain desirable characteristics.

For example you may want to run a rear roll bar to achieve a more aggressive front end by controlling roll with a rear roll bar. This will let you soften to front suspension so you get a more aggressive bite without having the front end flop over on you. However you may want to "deaden" the front by going stiff in front springing which case you may want to go with a front roll bar and not the rear or both F/R depending on what you're trying to achieve.

It sounds as if you have some TC knowledge so don't let that confuse you. The M05 and the v2 are a little closer to a TC than the M03, but a lot of the TC tuning tricks are not transferable and will go against everything you know. The best example of this is the shim out all the slop deal. Minis tend to run best with a little slop.

The springs set that seems to the more useful in a Mini is the #53333 set and as Calvin said the plastic steering linkages work fine till you smack something. Then you'll tweak the right bell crank and the car just won't steer right and at times go absolutely berserk. Here again buy the good Tamiya set cause the aftermarket stuff I've seen just does not hold up well and gets loose.

I stopped giving set ups some time ago, but I'll make an exception here. this is just to get you started in the right direction and by no means will be the ultimate set up for your track conditions or your driving style.

shocks-----56 to 56.5mm, zero rebound, 40wt Losi or 30wt associated oil, 3 hole piston
springs------yellow or red front, blue rear from the #53333 spring set.
the springs in the kit and the springs that came wit the shocks are too stiff for your track conditions
Rear roll bar------start with the heavy one
ride height-----5mm all around. You can adjust driving characteristics by motor boating or stink bugging the ride heights.
toe out-----easiest way to set it is run the car and add toe out till it will run straight. You adjust from this setting. Less toe out for quicker steering and more for slower
Rear blocks-----stock with 1.5 degree of rear camber
Tire-----harder ones in front. I'm too cheap to tire tune cause it gets expensive real fast. I generally use the same insert all around a change my car set up
Transmitter settings-----start here and adjust to suit. 20% negative expo. servo speed 80% turn in and 90 to 100% on the second half. 100% on the return. steering throw should be less than max, but don't have a number to give you cause it will vary from car to car
Shock angles and placement will need to be addressed when you add the option shock towers.

This stuff will supplement Calvin's advice. We probably both forgot stuff, but hope this helps.

See, told ya-----all Minis are tweaked. You can adjust out the tweak
Wow, I'm honored! I know y'all are some of the foremost experts on here. Really appreciate it. It certainly does help a lot. I hope others find it useful, too!
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Old 04-01-2015, 05:08 PM
  #23273  
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I got my RR pinion gears today. Just in time cause I need to swap the M05's gears pretty soon. I go through these gears (not just the pinion) in like 2.5 months. I must be driving waaay too much?

My M-Four bits started coming in too. I should have everything by the weekend.
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Old 04-01-2015, 11:08 PM
  #23274  
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Originally Posted by sakadachi
I got my RR pinion gears today. Just in time cause I need to swap the M05's gears pretty soon. I go through these gears (not just the pinion) in like 2.5 months. I must be driving waaay too much?

My M-Four bits started coming in too. I should have everything by the weekend.
The cause for going thru gears rapidly or frequently is "hitting" stuff while under power. You can have incidents, but if you're off throttle you generally won't cause much damage to the gears. This tendency for gear damage can be exacerbated by an excessively tight diff------the tight diff comment is a theory, but haven't thought on it that much.
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Old 04-01-2015, 11:23 PM
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You're not burning through the Robinson gears, are you? I can see it with the stock Tamiya ones. They're crap. I keep them in my pit box as giveaways or just in case I somehow burn through the good pinions I keep around. I've used up a Robinson, but it took years. I had a Kawada go bad on me, but there was gritty crap in the gearbox. I think it was still good, but why take a chance on such a cheap part?
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Old 04-02-2015, 02:54 AM
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Hey Monk
Any resolution to that binding problem?
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Old 04-02-2015, 08:37 AM
  #23277  
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You mean the one where the car becomes noisy when it warms up? No. Still haven't figured that out. Tried loosening and tightening various combinations of screws. No luck. It doesn't do it every time, but it still happens.

I really should try using the thicker V1 motor plate some time. Curious to see if it will work without that extra spacer, too.
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Old 04-02-2015, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Granpa
The cause for going thru gears rapidly or frequently is "hitting" stuff while under power. You can have incidents, but if you're off throttle you generally won't cause much damage to the gears. This tendency for gear damage can be exacerbated by an excessively tight diff------the tight diff comment is a theory, but haven't thought on it that much.
Hey there Granpa Honestly I don't hit much of anything while driving my cars. I sometimes scuff the body to the wall of my basement track or small cone, but the walls are all padded with thick cardboard and only minor damage to the body, no damage to the chassis at all.

I do brake often since the track is so small, that might be causing the wear...

The ball diff is set pretty loosely on my V2, and I run bevel diffs in my M05. I can't use stiff ball diff setting in my track as the turns are very tight, and traction is mediocre.

Originally Posted by monkeyracing
You're not burning through the Robinson gears, are you? I can see it with the stock Tamiya ones. They're crap. I keep them in my pit box as giveaways or just in case I somehow burn through the good pinions I keep around. I've used up a Robinson, but it took years. I had a Kawada go bad on me, but there was gritty crap in the gearbox. I think it was still good, but why take a chance on such a cheap part?
monkeyracing - No, I've not tried the RR pinions on my m-chassis yet. I did, however, run RR pinions on my TC 15yrs ago.

When I do change the gears inside the gearbox, I will also change the pinion.
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Old 04-02-2015, 11:11 AM
  #23279  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
You mean the one where the car becomes noisy when it warms up? No. Still haven't figured that out. Tried loosening and tightening various combinations of screws. No luck. It doesn't do it every time, but it still happens.

I really should try using the thicker V1 motor plate some time. Curious to see if it will work without that extra spacer, too.
Not sure if this helps your situation, but for my Tamiya cars, if my car sounds loud while new, I rotate the motor 180 degrees and re-mount to the gear box.

Something to do with the pinion mesh in my situation.

Does your car make a lot of noise off throttle? If only during on-throttle it could be that smaller counter gear between the diff and spur.
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Old 04-02-2015, 11:20 AM
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Nope. When it happens, it's under all conditions. It can be silenced by slightly loosening and re-tightening the motor screws.
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