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Tamiya mini cooper


Old 03-27-2015, 11:10 AM
  #23191  
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Originally Posted by Samich View Post
Are the M05V2 swaybars different from the V1? If not, here you go:
Samich- do you run this swaybar set? If so, can you tell if the swaybar is actually working? I bought one for the M03 and it was barely noticable..
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Old 03-27-2015, 12:06 PM
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So to summarize my questions

1) Which gear grease do you guys recommend for the V2.
2) Any gains from the swaybar set for M05? I want to install just the fronts.

3) (new) Anyone use the Hakko cordless soldering iron? If so, how is it?
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Old 03-27-2015, 01:06 PM
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Things got a little nasty in the cleaner tank.



Better!

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Old 03-27-2015, 01:14 PM
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[QUOTE=sakadachi;13928562]granpa- I will a tad bit more toe out on the front. I would assume it will make the turn-in faster making it more unstable for the rear, but it's worth a try.

Forget the TC tuning stuff. Minis not only look different, but quite often tune differently. I'd go into why, but you should be able to figure it out yourself.

Adding more toe out within reason will slow down steering response. The closer you get to zero toe out, the quicker the mini will turn or not track in a straight line. Some will disagree, but if you'll recall, one of the cures for straight line tracking issues is to add toe out. Why do you add toe out???? So the car will track straight. If the car tracks straight, it's not unstable and isn't turning so quickly. Thus your turn in is more gentle.

Sorry for leading you thru that reasoning, but I've been thru this discussion before and didn't want to go thru it again. Does the above make sense?????
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Old 03-27-2015, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
Forget the TC tuning stuff. Minis not only look different, but quite often tune differently. I'd go into why, but you should be able to figure it out yourself.

Adding more toe out within reason will slow down steering response. The closer you get to zero toe out, the quicker the mini will turn or not track in a straight line. Some will disagree, but if you'll recall, one of the cures for straight line tracking issues is to add toe out. Why do you add toe out???? So the car will track straight. If the car tracks straight, it's not unstable and isn't turning so quickly. Thus your turn in is more gentle.

Sorry for leading you thru that reasoning, but I've been thru this discussion before and didn't want to go thru it again. Does the above make sense?????
Yes, It does make sense during on-throttle stability, but for off-throttle stability, I will need to trial and error how much more toe out I need. I'm fine with trying it out though!!

The car is quite stable right now with my new springs, I just need to dial the rest in.
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Old 03-27-2015, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Things got a little nasty in the cleaner tank.



Better!

Oh wow, you have like a ultrasonic cleaner? Is that what that tub is?

I usually just take everything apart, do a wipe down with motor spray, and re-lube as needed. I guess I'm old school.
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Old 03-27-2015, 01:34 PM
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Jim, a couple of things on the use of an ultrasonic cleaner. If you have a couple of things that are tight fitting, don't put them in assembled cause you can cold weld them together. Also, if the parts are really dirty, don't clean in the dirty solution long cause you can, in effect, sandblast the finish of your pretty aluminum parts.

Also, ball bearings should not be in the ultrasonic too long or you can cause a bearing to go "rough". If the bearings you're using are the sealed type, pop one of the shields off cause they won't really get clean. I went back to the metal shielded bearings a few years ago cause an occasional 30 sec dip in the ultrasonic was all the maintenance needed for a long lasting bearing. The only bearings that usually need routine maintenance are the front wheel bearings anyway.
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Old 03-27-2015, 01:36 PM
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Grandpa- great advice on the sealed bearings. I too pop one of the covers off and just blast motor spray in there until clear, then drop liberal amounts of bearing oil.
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Old 03-27-2015, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by sakadachi View Post
Yes, It does make sense during on-throttle stability, but for off-throttle stability, I will need to trial and error how much more toe out I need. I'm fine with trying it out though!!

The car is quite stable right now with my new springs, I just need to dial the rest in.
Now you're getting the idea. A lot of this is trial and error. Most, if not all, of the stuff I post is "stuff" I've tried and proven on the track. It's not theoretical bull crap about what's supposed to work. Just think it through, the severity of the problem will increase with the amount of weight on the front wheels. When you're accelerating, steering sensitivity decreases cause there is less weight on the front wheels.

Admittedly, I've never driven a car set up like yours, so it was merely a suggestion. There may be other things going on that I have no understanding of because there is no practical experience with your type of set up.
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Old 03-27-2015, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Granpa View Post
Now you're getting the idea. A lot of this is trial and error. Most, if not all, of the stuff I post is "stuff" I've tried and proven on the track. It's not theoretical bull crap about what's supposed to work. Just think it through, the severity of the problem will increase with the amount of weight on the front wheels. When you're accelerating, steering sensitivity decreases cause there is less weight on the front wheels.

Admittedly, I've never driven a car set up like yours, so it was merely a suggestion. There may be other things going on that I have no understanding of because there is no practical experience with your type of set up.
Me neither, grandpa. But my M05 is telling me what needs fixing so I've been taking it in steps and making decent progress. I just need that last 10% of fine tuning and should be dialed well.

My kid's been wanting to get a m-chassis. I'm definitely suggesting him to save up and just get the V2. No issue on that chassis on the same track, same motor, same electronics besides the battery. M05's running Lipo, my V2 is running old side-by-sides.
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Old 03-27-2015, 02:28 PM
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Honestly the M05 has similar issues as the M03. It's too twitchy and unstable, not as bad as the M03. After I'm done working on my M05, I am going to apply some of the process to my M03 and induce more understeer for improved straight line stability.
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Old 03-27-2015, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by sakadachi View Post
So to summarize my questions

1) Which gear grease do you guys recommend for the V2.
2) Any gains from the swaybar set for M05? I want to install just the fronts.

3) (new) Anyone use the Hakko cordless soldering iron? If so, how is it?
If anyone would also please provide their insight on the 3 questions...
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Old 03-27-2015, 03:57 PM
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Yup, cheap ebay ultrasonic cleaner. I think it was $25, shipped. Very good investment. I use a solution of warm water and a little Simple green. Run a single cycle (2-3 minutes) and it's done. It's not exactly a quality machine, but it works well.

I use it for bearings, mostly because I have a mixture of metal and ceramics and it's easiest to clean them all the same way. From what I've read, motor spray type cleaners are bad for ceramics as they can eat into the surface I chuck them in here, dry them well afterwards. No worries.

Originally Posted by sakadachi View Post
If anyone would also please provide their insight on the 3 questions...
Grease for what gears? Plastic tranny gears? None! Or a little spritz of silicone spray.

We've geberally only run rear away bars here, to get the car to rotate faster. Most are running stuff diffs and need to get steering back somehow.

Hakko cordless iron? Didn't know it existed, but if it's genuine Hakko, it's probably very good.
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Old 03-27-2015, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing View Post
Y
Grease for what gears? Plastic tranny gears? None! Or a little spritz of silicone spray.

We've geberally only run rear away bars here, to get the car to rotate faster. Most are running stuff diffs and need to get steering back somehow.

Hakko cordless iron? Didn't know it existed, but if it's genuine Hakko, it's probably very good.
moneyracing- Really? No grease on the plastic gears?
Please let me in on your silicone spray secret!! Which do you use?

I have so much rotation right now on my M05 I dont need any more, I need to reduce it. So I guess it does work for the rear, must work for the front? I suppose I will look into it if my last dial-in does not net great results.

About the Hakko, I was looking at getting the model number: FX901/P
It's about $35 shipped. If it's good, I was going to get two, one for my RC tool box, one for the garage since I do stereo install's often on my real cars.
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Old 03-27-2015, 06:15 PM
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No secret. Just whatever silicone spray they sell at the auto parts store. It's cheap and given how little you'll use, a can will last generations. You can even use it for its intended purpose of treating rubber door seals on your real car!

Just ordered my first ever set of brand new axles. Weird, considering how long I've been doing this. While shopping, I found myself drooling over the big bore dampers. I think the word "shiny" is involved. My ancient TRF dampers (early 2000s?) are still perfect and get rebuilt every year, but there's always the nagging thought that the new thing might be better. I hate that!
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