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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 03-12-2015, 06:55 PM
  #23056  
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Originally Posted by rajiex
Ran my M05 Pro 2 last weekend at TCS. Love minis now. My old M03 was so sensitive. What was weird the 05 felt like a small TC. Running a HW Juststock ESC and Xerun 21.5. Nice combo but not as fast as those who advance their timing. Overall very satisfied. Only hop ups were front knuckles, rear uprights and TRF shocks. Followed all settings as per kit.
This is encouraging to hear, seems everyone is saying the m05v2 handles really well.
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Old 03-12-2015, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by eR1c
I saw two lipo fires at our 2014 club events. Not sure what caused both, but both were runing/competing at the time of fire. I suspect a short or some kind of ESC malfunction that let the battery go amuck? In both cases the fire was a nasty one, ...its a constant flame that just keeps going. The fire actually seems endless. We keep sand buckets for such case and had to put the entire car under a bucket of sand to keep the fire contained. Several hours later we removed the sand to find a melted mess of what was once a nice on-road TC car.

I did not know you could put them in the trash when spent. I did know about the salt solution to deactivate them, but good to know about being able to throw them away.

Sakadachi,
I recommend this for your battery holder,
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=3469

-this one is for the M05, but I believe it also fits the M05V2, ..yet you can verify by looking for parts for your M05V2 and see if this comes up.

I use this as it saves a ton of weight and is much easier to use than the stock setup. I just use a strip of tape on each end to secure my battery. ...for racing this works well, yet if your just parking lot bashing then it may not be convenient to carry tape w/ you?
eR1c - Dang, that fire at the race event sounds pretty crazy. I can't imagine my car melting like early model Tesla's.

Thanks for the link on the battery tie down. I think I should get the rectangular batteries next time for my V2 and tape it down. I use to tape down batteries in the good ol' days when running on road.

Carrying around tape is no issue as I carry my portable tool box with me pretty much everywhere that I drive my RC cars. Would suck having to have to go home just for a loose pinion gear grub screw or something. haha


Originally Posted by monkeyracing
Lipos are easy to take care of. Generally, after a race, mine are down to about 7.9v. As I'm packing up for the day, I discharge them to 7.6-7.8v. The charger does the work. Next time you race, be sure to balance charge, at least for the first heat. Simple.

Store them in a lipo bag/ammo box/casserole dish/asbestos underpants and you're good.

The lipo fires I've seen have generally been from batteries being overcharged/pushed too hard, or from over-discharging. Seen a few that seemed random, but there's always a reason. Lipos are as safe as anything else. Just use common sense.

Disposal is easy. Discharge as much as possible, cut off the leads, chuck them into a container with salt water for a few weeks. Do this outdoors! I use an old plastic coffee can with a loose fitting lid - gasses need to escape. After that, they're inert and non-toxic.

I really love what's happened in the past 5 or 6 years with lipos, brushless motors and such. This hobby has gotten WAY easier.
Thanks for the info on the discharge voltage, monkeyracing. I wondered what voltage the cells should be after done driving them for the day. I drove my M05 today and stopped when the LVC showed 3.7v-3.8v range each. I was able to get three 13-15min runs today on my new 4200mAh.


Originally Posted by rajiex
Ran my M05 Pro 2 last weekend at TCS. Love minis now. My old M03 was so sensitive. What was weird the 05 felt like a small TC. Running a HW Juststock ESC and Xerun 21.5. Nice combo but not as fast as those who advance their timing. Overall very satisfied. Only hop ups were front knuckles, rear uprights and TRF shocks. Followed all settings as per kit.
rajiex- Sounds good! I agree that the V2 runs real nice. The chassis is really well balanced.
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Old 03-12-2015, 11:24 PM
  #23058  
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Originally Posted by eR1c
This is encouraging to hear, seems everyone is saying the m05v2 handles really well.
I think you will like it, eR1c. It is a night/day difference between the M05.
Not that the M05 is bad, it's quirky handling is fun to drive. M05 is tuff to control when the rear tires start to loose traction though as the rear gets really light during corner entry, especially making right hand turns.

V2 uses red springs in the front and yellow on the rear, the opposite of M05's popular setup.
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Old 03-13-2015, 09:16 AM
  #23059  
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Call me odd, but I setup an internet camera pointing at my Lipo charger while charging so that I can monitor it from my computer and my smartphone.

I'm going to order the temp sensor for the charger later today so that it will do an auto shut-off if things get too hot while charging my NiCd and NiMH.
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Old 03-13-2015, 10:15 AM
  #23060  
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V2 uses red springs in the front and yellow on the rear, the opposite of M05's popular setup.
ah, good to know. Yeah, i'll have to read up on the best setup for the V2.
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Old 03-13-2015, 10:28 AM
  #23061  
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Took the vII for a shakedown at Floyd Bennett Field track today and it was like watching a tumbling circus.
Spent more time sliding on its roof than going round a corner.

Back to the drawing board with my set up.

As it stands
Tires. Sweep 45 front and rear
Suspension. 40 weight oil, 3 hole, yellow front, red rear.
Oil filled gear diff 500k diff oil.
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya mini cooper-mini2.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-13.jpg  

Last edited by Neils74; 03-13-2015 at 06:33 PM.
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Old 03-13-2015, 11:11 AM
  #23062  
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Originally Posted by Neils74
Took the vII for a shakedown at Floyd Bennett Field track today and it was like watching a tumbling circus.
Spent more time sliding on its roof than going round a corner.

Back to the drawing board with my set up.

As it stands
Tires. Sweep 45 front and rear
Suspension. 40 weight oil, 3 hole, yellow front, red rear.
Oil filled gear diff 500k diff oil.
I am running the tamiya 60d..yellow in front and blue in rear 45 weight w. 3hole. running gear diff still. I am running the long wheel base and that may be the difference.
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Old 03-13-2015, 11:32 AM
  #23063  
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Neils - I like those TE37 style wheels!
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Old 03-13-2015, 12:26 PM
  #23064  
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Hopefully with a few of these changes, the car could go round a corner.
I've raised the front ride height slightly and lowered the rear a lot. The front end has more toe out and the springs have been changed to blues in the rear, yellow on front. The servo speed has also been slowed down.

My unforgiving track has also punished my poor driving skills again by destroying the rear end of my tz motor. God knows how, but its all bent in and I can not remove the brushes. The only thing that I think it could be, is the LH upright smashed into the end bell of the motor in a hard impact, but that means the whole LH assembly had to flex a lot to reach.
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Old 03-13-2015, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by sakadachi
Neils - I like those TE37 style wheels!
Cheers. They are from sweep racing. Pretty tough, albeit a little flexible.
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Old 03-13-2015, 12:37 PM
  #23066  
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Originally Posted by Neils74
My unforgiving track has also punished my poor driving skills again by destroying the rear end of my tz motor. God knows how, but its all bent in and I can not remove the brushes. The only thing that I think it could be, is the LH upright smashed into the end bell of the motor in a hard impact, but that means the whole LH assembly had to flex a lot to reach.
This does happen. I've had uprights and motors bashing together for ages. It's be interesting to see super slow motion footage of a mini crashing hard. It'd probably look like a boomerang. This pic is from 2009. Took it to prove to some dork I wasn't cheating my motors..


Last edited by monkeyracing; 03-13-2015 at 02:44 PM.
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Old 03-13-2015, 01:26 PM
  #23067  
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Neils74,

I love that photo you took of your yellow Mini! -awesome shot!

I have experience w/ the M05 (not the V2), but keep in mind the M05 tends to be a bit twitchy. Even a dialed in M05 really can't take sharp or normal corners hard otherwise it will roll. Try to keep momentum through the turn, don't brake, But don't gun it all the way through either. You want to let off on the throttle a bit, keeping some momentum then somewhere around 3/4's of the way through the turn to turn exit you want to get back on the throttle. --depends on the curve of course.
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Old 03-13-2015, 01:50 PM
  #23068  
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Originally Posted by eR1c
Neils74,

I love that photo you took of your yellow Mini! -awesome shot!

I have experience w/ the M05 (not the V2), but keep in mind the M05 tends to be a bit twitchy. Even a dialed in M05 really can't take sharp or normal corners hard otherwise it will roll. Try to keep momentum through the turn, don't brake, But don't gun it all the way through either. You want to let off on the throttle a bit, keeping some momentum then somewhere around 3/4's of the way through the turn to turn exit you want to get back on the throttle. --depends on the curve of course.
Thanks, I can't take credit for the shot. It was my gopro set to time lapse as I was trying to get a shot of the car just before and during mid flip.

I was trying to feather the throttle and keep momentum through the corner but the moment a little power was applied the car would choose between spin out and flip or just flip. I will admit, driver error 75%, car set up 24 % and chilly track day 1%.
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Old 03-13-2015, 06:23 PM
  #23069  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
This does happen. I've had uprights and motors bashing together for ages. It's be interesting to see super slow motion footage of a mini crashing hard. It'd probably look like a boomerang. This pic is from 2009. Took it to prove to some dork I wasn't cheating my motors..

It is amazing how strong and resiliant these little cars are especially as it would be like us driving a real car into a solid wall at 200mph. That plastic chassis must flex more than we think!
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Old 03-13-2015, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Neils74
It is amazing how strong and resiliant these little cars are especially as it would be like us driving a real car into a solid wall at 200mph. That plastic chassis must flex more than we think!
200mph? Scale speed isn't calculated by taking actual mph x scale. That mini would have to be doing close to 60mph to be doing 200mph to scale if we consider a mini 1/12 scale. A close calculation is to multiply the actual speed by the square root of the scale. √12=3.46, 60x3.46=207.6. A mini probably does closer to 20mph, so 20x3.46=69.2mph scale speed. Still a bad crash to hit a wall at close to 70mph!

http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/scalespeed.html

http://webpages.charter.net/sinkwich...cale_speed.htm

Still cool to see how much these cars flex.
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