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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 03-05-2015, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
As for that bit hanging below the arm, hack it off. It's there so Tamiya didn't have to make separate L/R pieces.
Thanks for the info monkeyracing!!
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Old 03-05-2015, 08:54 PM
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I tried all sorts of height adjustment on my M05 dampers (left side) to remedy the rear stepping out issue during right turns. I couldn't get rid of it.

Best I just use a good coat of tire traction on the rear tires.
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Old 03-06-2015, 02:56 AM
  #23013  
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Originally Posted by Neils74
So after spending a day switching over to the M-05 V.II Chassis. I have hit several stumbling blocks.

I can only hope it's my rushed build and setup and that I am missing something glaringly obvious, but my front uprights Tamiya (54177) hit the righthand side of the chassis at about 80% lock. It's fine if I want to turn left, I just have to hope there are not too many right turns in the near future.
Just looking at the angle of the top arm and track rod, what ride height are you running ? On My V2 the arms are almost level and I have no upright -chassis contact issues.

Secondly, do not bother switching to the titanium screws. stripped three heads already, and now they are stuck. Hopeless rubbish.
Did you tap the chassis first before fitting the titanium screws, you shouldn't need too much force to tighten the screw if you have pre-tapped the holes.

The front suspension arm set has a screw hole on both arms which also give very little ground clearance and will have to be cut off... nothing is ever simple.
As pointed out earlier it's to facilitate both right hand and left hand fitment.

And lastly, my nimh packs are too small for the V.II chassis.......arrrggghh.
I use the alloy battery holders #54224 for holding my NiMh packs, when taping them in place I apply the tape to the let hand side in an anticlockwise direction and clockwise on the right hand side, this keeps the pack firmly pushed to the front of the battery aperture.
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Old 03-06-2015, 12:25 PM
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Most racers I know run less than 80%. Full lock leads to tire scrub and chattering axles.
I usually run at 75%. Not sure the course you run on, but 75% allows plenty of turn, especially for our course. -plus I avoid the nasty angle/chatter/scrubbing that can occur at around 85% or more (for me personally). Oh, I also put one rubber o ring on the inside of each outdrive and inside of each wheel axle joint. I think the o rings are far enough in that they don't really make much of a difference, but they may prevent a tad of that "lock up" effect.
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Old 03-06-2015, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by eR1c
I usually run at 75%. Not sure the course you run on, but 75% allows plenty of turn, especially for our course. -plus I avoid the nasty angle/chatter/scrubbing that can occur at around 85% or more (for me personally). Oh, I also put one rubber o ring on the inside of each outdrive and inside of each wheel axle joint. I think the o rings are far enough in that they don't really make much of a difference, but they may prevent a tad of that "lock up" effect.

I run mine at 100% There's no way I can turn in my tight basement track without full lock at the far corners.
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Old 03-06-2015, 08:56 PM
  #23016  
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Thanks to all (monkeyracing, sakadachi, marcos_graveyar and eR1c) for the help
This forum is a great source on non-eliteist tech help. Cheers.

Fyi. tried the easy-out tool...... not very easy. just ended up buying another chassis.
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Old 03-06-2015, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Neils74
Thanks to all (monkeyracing, sakadachi, marcos_graveyar and eR1c) for the help
This forum is a great source on non-eliteist tech help. Cheers.

Fyi. tried the easy-out tool...... not very easy. just ended up buying another chassis.
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Old 03-07-2015, 11:03 PM
  #23018  
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How are your shocks set up for carpet racing? I have a VerII with C-Hub pin shock mounting.

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Old 03-08-2015, 01:50 AM
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I run the Works dampers, Associated 400 oil, 3 hole piston all round. Short yellow springs front, short blue springs rear. I use the longer V parts #2 adjuster on the front shock, Tamiya 54489 adjuster on the rear. I also run the carbon damper mounts and for the front and rear I use one hole out from standard. Ride height is set at 5.5mm at the rear 5mm at the front with droop of 3mm over ride height.

We run on a high grip carpet with M-grips all round, presently using Spice 55 Hard inserts all round with glued sidewall fronts only. If I need a little more rear end grip I run Kawada 45 Medium inserts on the rear.
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Old 03-08-2015, 04:22 AM
  #23020  
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Hey guys, this is my first post here! I just got into M-chassis racing and love it! I run a M-06 and it's great fun cruising this tiny thing. As I do. Have the beetle body on it I wanted to get something new, more looking like a racer and fellin love with the fiat 500 abarth as well as with the Mini Cooper s body.i already found out that fiat won't fit my m-06 chassis, will the mini?

Thanks for your help
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Old 03-08-2015, 02:33 PM
  #23021  
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Originally Posted by marcos graveyar
I run the Works dampers, Associated 400 oil, 3 hole piston all round. Short yellow springs front, short blue springs rear. I use the longer V parts #2 adjuster on the front shock, Tamiya 54489 adjuster on the rear. I also run the carbon damper mounts and for the front and rear I use one hole out from standard. Ride height is set at 5.5mm at the rear 5mm at the front with droop of 3mm over ride height.

We run on a high grip carpet with M-grips all round, presently using Spice 55 Hard inserts all round with glued sidewall fronts only. If I need a little more rear end grip I run Kawada 45 Medium inserts on the rear.
Where did you get those inserts from? I tried the sweeps and they are terrible.
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Old 03-08-2015, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Bamfuzi
Hey guys, this is my first post here! I just got into M-chassis racing and love it! I run a M-06 and it's great fun cruising this tiny thing. As I do. Have the beetle body on it I wanted to get something new, more looking like a racer and fellin love with the fiat 500 abarth as well as with the Mini Cooper s body.i already found out that fiat won't fit my m-06 chassis, will the mini?

Thanks for your help
hey there Banfuzi!

The Rover Mini bodies are 210mm wheel base. I believe the Fiat500 is the same.
I am not sure about the Cooper-S.

Tamiya claims your M06 has adjustable wheelbase. Make sure you have the correct setting.

http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio...n-beetle-58572
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Old 03-08-2015, 07:08 PM
  #23023  
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Tamiya lists the Cooper-S under M03L.. would that be 239mm then?

http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio...r-s-2006-58400
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Old 03-08-2015, 07:12 PM
  #23024  
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I drove my M05 and V2 this afternoon in my little track at home. I decided to change the M05's damper setting to hard spring (blue) with Tamiya blue damper oil (hardest) on the front, kept the rear red spring but with clear damper oil, using both single hole pistons.

The rear stepping out problem I have at corner entry has been reduced and stability gained. I will drive this setting a few more days before I decide whether I want to get the extra hard springs for the front, or the stabilizer set.

Oh, and I ordered the Dynamite AC/DC charger as well.
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Old 03-09-2015, 12:57 AM
  #23025  
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I'm looking to pick up some 55d tires, but have been out of that end of the market for a while. Can anyone suggest a good tire from Spice and/or Shimizu? How about inserts? The combo is usually grippier rear than front, correct? We generally run on medium grip carpet.
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