Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road
Tamiya mini cooper >

Tamiya mini cooper

Like Tree288Likes

Tamiya mini cooper

Old 03-04-2015, 01:39 PM
  #22996  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
sakadachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 2,354
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by DesJardins
If you're ordering from progressiveRC you can add the deans charge lead & the balance board you'll need.

I purchased the combo with case so it came with the balance Board for JST connectors & I just added the nice Deans charge lead

In that pic you will also see the balance board extension for the 4S lipo. But if your charging out of the vehicle you won't need any extensions
Ahhh, thanks for the information! Yes, I do plan on ordering from ProgressiveRC since you guys recommend them.

Correct, I will be charging out of my car because I will be running multiple packs. I plan to get 2 rounded housing ones for my M05 to start.

Then if you guys can recommend me what Lipo to get for the M-Four
sakadachi is offline  
Old 03-04-2015, 02:37 PM
  #22997  
Tech Adept
 
Heathen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Nanaimo
Posts: 215
Default

Originally Posted by fig865
Hey Mini Cooper racers! If you're on facebook, a group was started for any Tamiya M-Chassis discussions or pictures to be shared. Feel free to check it out and join.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/RCMiniCooper/
No need for this group, lots of good m-chassis groups on Facebook. M-chassis united it a good one.
Heathen is offline  
Old 03-04-2015, 02:40 PM
  #22998  
Tech Master
iTrader: (43)
 
fig865's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Posts: 1,369
Trader Rating: 43 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Heathen
No need for this group, lots of good m-chassis groups on Facebook. M-chassis united it a good one.
Sorry bout that. I only searched for mini cooper groups and found none. The new group will be deleted. Thanks.
fig865 is offline  
Old 03-04-2015, 11:47 PM
  #22999  
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
 
Rcnutguy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 273
Trader Rating: 6 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by avink007
Chassis, hinge pins, 3x6mm set screws for setting droop on the arms, motor mount, 1.5mm spacers for the motor screws, and arms.
Many thanks
Rcnutguy is offline  
Old 03-05-2015, 10:41 AM
  #23000  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
sakadachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 2,354
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Hi guys! I have a quick question regarding my M05 setup. While entering a corner under decent traction, the rear of the car tends to want to step out especially turning right. Not as severe going left.

What do you guys recommend for this type of behavior as far as setup/weight?
I am currently using yellow short springs on front, red springs in the back, #800 Tamiya damper oil using the factory CVA super mini single hole piston (it is not that stiff). I don't want the rear of the car stepping out like this.

Thanks.

Actually, until I can fix this issue I will not be getting Lipo's for the car because it will only make the car go faster and make the situation worse.

I have no such issue on my V2.
sakadachi is offline  
Old 03-05-2015, 11:02 AM
  #23001  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
eR1c's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,479
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

I noticed that my rear end tended to slide out a bit w/ the Tamiya racing slicks on asphalt (S-Grips and front and rear anti-sway bar seemed to solve this for me). Also if I take corners too hard, ...I kind of have to roll through corners, letting off on the throttle slightly, then picking it up again towards the end of the corner.
eR1c is offline  
Old 03-05-2015, 11:52 AM
  #23002  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
sakadachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 2,354
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by eR1c
I noticed that my rear end tended to slide out a bit w/ the Tamiya racing slicks on asphalt (S-Grips and front and rear anti-sway bar seemed to solve this for me). Also if I take corners too hard, ...I kind of have to roll through corners, letting off on the throttle slightly, then picking it up again towards the end of the corner.
Thanks eR1c. I am running the D60 radial S-Grips on all 4 corners. I tried remedying this by using stiff inserts in the front and soft in the rear. Did not help much. I have rear camber setup at the same angle as my V2 and it helped significantly, but still not perfect.

I am using full tread traction compound on the rear, and only one stripe down the middle tread on the front tire. This helped the most, but the wear on the rear tires' outside 10-15mm vs V2 shows that the rear tires are getting overwhelmed and car not setup correctly.

Going left through the corner is good, but going right through the same corner, the rear steps out.

I might try the swaybars. My M03 runs swaybars but that was more gimmicky than really helping to stabilize the car.
sakadachi is offline  
Old 03-05-2015, 12:10 PM
  #23003  
Tech Initiate
 
Neils74's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Posts: 25
Default

So after spending a day switching over to the M-05 V.II Chassis. I have hit several stumbling blocks.

I can only hope it's my rushed build and setup and that I am missing something glaringly obvious, but my front uprights Tamiya (54177) hit the righthand side of the chassis at about 80% lock. It's fine if I want to turn left, I just have to hope there are not too many right turns in the near future.

Secondly, do not bother switching to the titanium screws. stripped three heads already, and now they are stuck. Hopeless rubbish.

The front suspension arm set has a screw hole on both arms which also give very little ground clearance and will have to be cut off... nothing is ever simple.

And lastly, my nimh packs are too small for the V.II chassis.......arrrggghh.
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya mini cooper-mini1-v2.jpeg   Tamiya mini cooper-mini2-v2.jpeg   Tamiya mini cooper-mini3-v2.jpeg  
Neils74 is offline  
Old 03-05-2015, 12:35 PM
  #23004  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (37)
 
howardcano's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 3,784
Trader Rating: 37 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by sakadachi
Going left through the corner is good, but going right through the same corner, the rear steps out.
That sounds like a corner weight (tweak, to RC guys) problem. Adjust the shock collars (and sway bars, if connected) to put a little less weight on the left rear tire, and a little more on the right.

The M05 isn't static balanced too well from side to side, so a tweak board may not get the handling symmetrical. Make the final corner weight adjustment on the track.
howardcano is offline  
Old 03-05-2015, 01:45 PM
  #23005  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
sakadachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 2,354
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by howardcano
That sounds like a corner weight (tweak, to RC guys) problem. Adjust the shock collars (and sway bars, if connected) to put a little less weight on the left rear tire, and a little more on the right.

The M05 isn't static balanced too well from side to side, so a tweak board may not get the handling symmetrical. Make the final corner weight adjustment on the track.
Thank you, howardcano. I will raise the rear left just a tad and see how it goes.

The funny is my V2 is slightly the other way around (rear wants to slightly step out while turning left) but not as severe as my M05. Will dial that out as well.
sakadachi is offline  
Old 03-05-2015, 01:52 PM
  #23006  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
sakadachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 2,354
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by Neils74
So after spending a day switching over to the M-05 V.II Chassis. I have hit several stumbling blocks.

I can only hope it's my rushed build and setup and that I am missing something glaringly obvious, but my front uprights Tamiya (54177) hit the righthand side of the chassis at about 80% lock. It's fine if I want to turn left, I just have to hope there are not too many right turns in the near future.

Secondly, do not bother switching to the titanium screws. stripped three heads already, and now they are stuck. Hopeless rubbish.

The front suspension arm set has a screw hole on both arms which also give very little ground clearance and will have to be cut off... nothing is ever simple.

And lastly, my nimh packs are too small for the V.II chassis.......arrrggghh.
1) I only use the factory uprights (same as the M05's) on my V2 and no issue on the full steering lock clearance. Might want to try your M05's.

2) You can try a tool called Easy-Out. Most hardware stores have them. It's basically a coarse reverse drill bit that bites into your screw head while you drive it out with your power tool. I work on real cars as a hobby too, so I have such tools handy.

3) I noticed that too on my V2. Is that for the swaybar set? I was thinking about just cutting that off at the bottom of the arms since it's just a nuisance.
sakadachi is offline  
Old 03-05-2015, 01:58 PM
  #23007  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
sakadachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 2,354
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

eR1c- btw, which Dynamite charger do you use?
sakadachi is offline  
Old 03-05-2015, 05:55 PM
  #23008  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
 
eR1c's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 2,479
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

2) You can try a tool called Easy-Out. Most hardware stores have them. It's basically a coarse reverse drill bit that bites into your screw head while you drive it out with your power tool. I work on real cars as a hobby too, so I have such tools handy.
They do work, but they ain't "easy"! (I spent about 4 hrs removing a broken head stud from my engine years ago w/ an easy out). -lot's of swearing!!! It should be a lot easier w/ an RC vehicle!

If you have the space what you can also do is use a dremel and slice a "line" into the top of the screw, thus making it a slotted screw. Then use a slotted/flat head screw driver and get the screw out (just make sure the fit is tight when you go at it w/ your screw driver ..any play will potentially strip the remaining portion of the screw head). I've done this on several occassions. This works if you still have the screw head can can get access to dremel it.

-----------------------

I use this charger:
http://www.dynamiterc.com/Products/D...ProdID=DYN4064

I have used 4 different chargers over the years.. This one I find the easiest to use, has some nice features like a temperature sensor and timer. I kind of wish I bought the dual charging one, -it would come in handy for my races ..when I need to charge multiple batteries between heats.
eR1c is offline  
Old 03-05-2015, 06:29 PM
  #23009  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
 
sakadachi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: USA
Posts: 2,354
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Looks good, eR1c! I was looking at the black 200w if going ac/dc.

Good idea about dremeling a slot.

Last edited by sakadachi; 03-05-2015 at 08:00 PM.
sakadachi is offline  
Old 03-05-2015, 06:50 PM
  #23010  
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (10)
 
monkeyracing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 6,305
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Neils, the upright hitting the chassis is a bit of a pain, but you probably don't want full lock anyway. Most racers I know run less than 80%. Full lock leads to tire scrub and chattering axles.

As for that bit hanging below the arm, hack it off. It's there so Tamiya didn't have to make separate L/R pieces.
monkeyracing is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.