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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 10-09-2014, 09:06 AM
  #22201  
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Any signs after some runtime of gears rubbing on the sides of the g'box?

I would try to make my own shafts anyway. It all sounds like the shafts are too short and the g'box pinches the bearings.
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Old 10-09-2014, 10:04 AM
  #22202  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
I've been wondering about this binding/noise when the screws are snugged down. Is this more of a problem with the v2 revision? I've been running with the motor screws really loose - so loose they've been falling out. I saw a little relief with a few gearbox screws loosened by a thread. Is this just a misalignment issue with the gearbox plastics?
Are you sure you have the motor screws in correctly ?
The V2 uses 2 spacers (BB14 5.5x1.5mm) on the motor screws to allow for the offset in the chassis/motorplate.
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Old 10-09-2014, 10:07 AM
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I've not seen any signs of wear in the gearbox. It seems the motor plate/motor/pinion is being pulled out of alignment when properly tightened. I tried adjusting the screws individually, but they both create the same effect. Could be an initial production glitch, like the steering mounting point.

I had a few 03 chassis that did this.
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Old 10-09-2014, 11:33 AM
  #22204  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
I've not seen any signs of wear in the gearbox. It seems the motor plate/motor/pinion is being pulled out of alignment when properly tightened. I tried adjusting the screws individually, but they both create the same effect. Could be an initial production glitch, like the steering mounting point.

I had a few 03 chassis that did this.
Can you perhaps enlarge the holes a bit and use a sleeve around the screws to limit chassis compression?
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Old 10-09-2014, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by marcos graveyar
Are you sure you have the motor screws in correctly ?
The V2 uses 2 spacers (BB14 5.5x1.5mm) on the motor screws to allow for the offset in the chassis/motorplate.
Yeah, those are just to keep the screws out of the motor windings, I think.

Originally Posted by niznai
Can you perhaps enlarge the holes a bit and use a sleeve around the screws to limit chassis compression?
Interesting idea. I'm not that motivated, though.

Anyway, I swapped out the carbon gear shafts for the stock steel ones and it got quite a bit quieter. I'll go with that for now.
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Old 10-10-2014, 04:51 AM
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Jim,
I have had no issues with my MO5 V2 with the gears or motor screws. I have used what was indicated in the instructions. I also use the alloy thin plate to prevent dirt getting into the gearbox and motor. I put the screws through first, place the alloy plate then screw the motor in, using the spacers on the motor screws.
My gearbox is nice and smooth. I am using the standard steel shafts with the normal white gears, with the TOP racing oil gear diff with 300 000 weight oil. This works well and still gives good forward bite and steering.
For those who have complained about a lack of rear end grip, perhaps you need to consider smaller hexes, 4 mm or 5mm and making sure not to have to much negative rear camber. I find 1.5 degrees of rear camber seems to work best for the tyre combination I run, which is adjusted by the changing the spacer width on the rear upper link.
Later,
Calvin
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Old 10-10-2014, 01:30 PM
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I have read through most all of the posts on this thread, and have checked out what setup sheets I can find (only like 2).

I have a question about tires.
Our race / club season has just ended, but thinking about what to try for next season, etc. We run on asphalt, it is usually high grip. I ran Tamiya slicks on all 4 all year (our rules state you must run Tamiya wheels and tires). Has anyone tried going with S-Grips on front and slicks on back? Just thinking the S-Grips may dig in a bit more and get better acceleration out of corners and forward grip? ...I kind of think i've heard this but can anyone confirm. Does this sound reasonable, would it be beneficial? I can always try it out in a qualifying race.
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Old 10-10-2014, 04:09 PM
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nevermind, found the answer on page 1189 of this thread.
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Old 10-10-2014, 10:42 PM
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Anyone know where to get rebuild parts for the 3Racing gear diff, or even just the blades for the outdrives? Seems to be out of stock or discontinued everywhere I usually look. How about any other blades that will fit?

EDIT: Discovered something interesting about my M05 tonight. The gearbox actually gets tighter as it heats up during a race. Before the race, smooth as silk. After a race, noisy with extra friction. Let it cool, loosens up. Very weird. Seems the tolerances are much tighter than in the past. I may file a tiny bit of material from the bosses where the gear shafts mount. to see if that alleviates a little pressure.

Last edited by monkeyracing; 10-11-2014 at 12:28 AM.
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Old 10-10-2014, 11:36 PM
  #22210  
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Try Tamiya TC (TRF) blades.
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Old 10-11-2014, 06:58 PM
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Found some Xray pn 305241. They fit!
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Old 10-11-2014, 08:34 PM
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Jim you can use 3racing Sakura Zero diff parts/rebuild kits
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Old 10-11-2014, 10:59 PM
  #22213  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
Found some Xray pn 305241. They fit!
Sort of. The Xray outdrives are 7mm id whereas everybody else has 6. That is because their driveshafts have a 7mm ball end, hence the blades are a bit larger and may slide around on the Tamiya ball ends.
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Old 10-13-2014, 06:15 PM
  #22214  
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do you cut your foams in your Tamiya M grip tires?

Last edited by Heathen; 10-13-2014 at 06:33 PM.
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Old 10-13-2014, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Heathen
do you cut your foams in your Tamiya M grip tires?
If you are referring to the Tamiya foam inserts, no, you do not. If you shorten them, the tires will come out "softer". Just take the inserts and glue the ends together with contact cement. Do not build your tires without glueing the ends together. Also do not use cyano to do this or you'll get a hard spot.

Hope this helps.
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