Tamiya mini cooper

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  • Quote: Its just a dumb rule. Someone will buy a common Mini like a Swift or 500 and get turned away from the track. What's the benefit of that?
    To be honest, they would let any M-Chassis race. I think its just a 'Preferred' shell type. (Got my wires crossed)

    Quote: Qatmix, are you running TCS rules? I noticed you mentioned something about Sweep tires, so I'm assuming not. How about bodies from companies like Blitz? Their shells are good quality and half the price of Tamiya.
    Definitely not TCS rules. I think Any make of shell will be ok, again preferably a mini. I am now considering the Montech Mini shell (looks like a Monster Mini)

    Quote: Let me answer the question this way. The best carpet racer I know uses a SWB car.
    Well the Montech is a swb, so I'm going to try that at first. Thanks for the answers.
  • I prefer the SWB. My home track is small-medium size but they keep it pretty tight. A lot of the guys run Suzuki Swifts(MWB) at my track. I feel like my mini hugs the turns better in the INfield.
  • Quote: A few errors here. It's tough remembering sometimes and I could be wrong here too. Monkey will probably set us both right. Tamiya discontinues so many bodies without notice.

    My list:

    SWB Rover Mini, Alpine, Fiat Abarth 1000, Honda S800, Nissan Silvia( also in LWB).

    LWB JCW Coupe, Nissan Silvia, 2006 Cooper S

    MWB CRX, Abarth 500, Suzuki Swift.
    You are correct, Tamiya has discontinued the body sets. However often times the individual parts in the set are available separately.

    For instance the Alfa Romeo GTA part numbers are:

    1825421 Alfa Body only (in stock)
    http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio-control-parts-70/7-digit-spare-parts-71010/rc-body-58486-1825421

    9005512 Alfa H Chrome Parts (in stock)
    http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio-control-parts-70/7-digit-spare-parts-71010/rc-h-parts-58187-9005512

    9495256 Alfa Decal Set (in stock)

    http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio-control-parts-70/7-digit-spare-parts-71010/rc-sticker-masking-seal-58187-9495256

    Mazda Miata Eunos

    Body 1825151 (out of stock)
    http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio-control-parts-70/7-digit-spare-parts-71010/rc-body-58325-1825151

    H parts 9005502 (in stock)
    http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio-control-parts-70/7-digit-spare-parts-71010/rc-h-parts-58180-9005502

    Decal 9495247 (in stock)

    http://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio-control-parts-70/7-digit-spare-parts-71010/rc-sticker-masking-seal-58180-9495247
  • My second favorite body after the CRX is the MiniCooper (oldschool). Too bad I don't have one of those laying around, then I would have a reason to build this other M05vII that's still sitting in the box. What w/b is the new-style Fiat500 Abarth. That looks really snazzy too.
  • Quote: LWB (239) bodies are very rare, almost extinct. Majority are SWB (210) and quite a few are MWB (225). Off the top of my head, here are the Tamiya bodies,

    Nissan Silvia S15 239mm is only LWB I can think of
    Alfa MiTo is 239/LWB. Just put one on my M05. Beautiful and FWD and available.

    Quote: What w/b is the new-style Fiat500 Abarth. That looks really snazzy too.
    225mm / mwb.
  • [QUOTE=firefoxussr;13526058]Alfa MiTo is 239/LWB. Just put one on my M05. Beautiful and FWD and available.

    I share your enthusiasm for the appearance of the Alfa Mito. It's a great looking car. But it is also one of the most evil handling bodies that I've ever had the misfortune of using.

    The Abarth is another one of those bodies that look great, but is not the easiest body to set up a car with. Not seen very often in racing around here.
  • Quote:
    The Abarth is another one of those bodies that look great, but is not the easiest body to set up a car with. Not seen very often in racing around here.
    hmmm.. challenge accepted.
  • Quote: hmmm.. challenge accepted.
    You were on a roll. That body should or will make you tear your hair out. Sorry, I forgot.
  • Shame you guys can't use the Blitz Jazz shell. Cheap, handles a lot like the Swift, a bit lighter, but still tough. Also, there's room for really wide wheel hexes. I'm running 7mm or 8mm on each corner and still have room! There is something nice about those Swift bodies, though. They look great with almost any paint job on them and wear battle scars well.
  • My lad runs Suzuki Swift shells and I run Fiat 500. We can swap around and I definitely find his shell a bit more stable for some reason.

    I have a concours class winning Honda S800 shell and a mini classic shell in SWB form for the indoor season too. Have never driven the Honda but I imagine it has really low centre of gravity compared to the other shells
  • [QUOTE=Granpa;13526550]
    Quote: Alfa MiTo is 239/LWB. Just put one on my M05. Beautiful and FWD and available.

    I share your enthusiasm for the appearance of the Alfa Mito. It's a great looking car. But it is also one of the most evil handling bodies that I've ever had the misfortune of using.

    The Abarth is another one of those bodies that look great, but is not the easiest body to set up a car with. Not seen very often in racing around here.
    I've driven the 1:1 Abarth, it's a hoot to drive and feels faster than the Mini Cooper S, even though it's slower. It has a lot of body roll due to the high roofline, which makes for a spirited driving experience. That's what fools you into thinking it's fast lol

    I'm a vintage car lover and use the m chassis to live out my vintage car racing fantasy. My signature body is the Alfa GTA, and back ups are the Abarth 1000 and Alpine A110 using M06 Pro.
  • Toyota Bb / Scion xB very rare, LWB.

    (I have two, don't need a third, not my listing)
  • Does anyone have a list of part numbers for the TA03 ball diff? Mine has given up the ghost and could use some rebuild parts.

    OR...advice on setting it up using existing parts. It's all stock, save for ceramic balls. I'm throwing it into my M04, so it needs to remain super "diffy" like you'd use in a pan car. I rebuilt it yesterday, tightened it down to where the action was very smooth, but it slipped easily with the outdrives held in place. Cranked it down until the screw couldn't go in anymore and it got crunchy, but still slipped. Not sure what needs doing.
  • Quote: Does anyone have a list of part numbers for the TA03 ball diff? Mine has given up the ghost and could use some rebuild parts.

    OR...advice on setting it up using existing parts. It's all stock, save for ceramic balls. I'm throwing it into my M04, so it needs to remain super "diffy" like you'd use in a pan car. I rebuilt it yesterday, tightened it down to where the action was very smooth, but it slipped easily with the outdrives held in place. Cranked it down until the screw couldn't go in anymore and it got crunchy, but still slipped. Not sure what needs doing.
    The most common cause for what you're experiencing is a bad or dirty thrust bearing. The thrust bearing goes bad more often than most people think. Unfortunately there is no good way to check it.

    The other cause could be your cone or Belleville washers have become flattened and no longer apply pressure as they did. Check them against some new ones. They need to be replaced from time to time. They are available from McMaster Carr inexpensively.
  • Quote: I have a concours class winning Honda S800 shell and a mini classic shell in SWB form for the indoor season too. Have never driven the Honda but I imagine it has really low centre of gravity compared to the other shells


    I have the Honda and run it in our parking lot racing whenever I get the chance. I love the way it handles. I feel like it has a little more steering than most other Mini bodies. I also do not run the front " wind fin" on the front. It just looked weird so I removed it.

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m03, m03r ules, m05, mini, tamiya