visuvius

iTrader: (4)

Okay so to drill the head off the screw, can I just go right down from the top with a regular drill bit or do I need to use like a dremel and one of those cutting blades and cut in through the side of the plastic D1 piece? Sorry for the dumb questions I'm a bit new to all this.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Drill straight down, using a drill bit slightly larger than the threaded part of the screw. Do a little at a time. You might feel a slight pop when you have drilled through far enough.

Clawhammers

Hi,

I just join this forum and this would be my first post

I am a beginner who wants to play RC, and having browsed several available options, I am interested to play with Tamiya M-05. My considerations in choosing this model are (A) lots of reference stating that playing M-chassis is FUN, (B) it is recommended for beginner, and (C) easier maintenance due to 2WD-FWD system (compared to 4WD belt/shaft driven or 2WD-RWD).

I have a LHS nearby who own a outdoor asphalt track, and I am informed that the character of this track are
(1) large circuit,
(2) several high speed corners and
(3) medium traction.


There is a Mini class run there, and it is mandatory to use Tamiya Hop-Up only and Hobbywing Justock Combo Xerun 17.5T (motor & esc). Minimum weight 1,230 gram and maximum gear 20T.

I have browsed the last 700 pages in this forum, and with reference to the above explanations, I opt for Long Wheelbase (239mm). I just purchased Tamiya M05 Pro Gold Version (#84359) and body shell of Mini JCW Coupe.

With regards to the battery, I purchased Silverback Elite 4200mah (40C – 7.4V). I also purchased 4 sets of Team Powers Pre-Mount Rubber Tires (36R) for front and rear.


I have not purchased any additional hop-up yet, and I am quite confuse having browsed various recommendations in this forum. I have prepared list of several hop-ups that need to be purchased, as follows:

#54194 – Ball Differential Set (I couldn’t get the TA03 Ball Diff)
#53597 – Universal Shaft Assembly
#54183 – Reinforced Freewheel Axle Set
#54191 – Aluminum Steering Set
#54192 – Aluminum Steering Link
#54195 – Aluminum Turnbuckle Rod
#54000 – M-Chassis Aluminum Damper Set
#54239 – Sway Bar Set


Now my questions are as follows:

1. Please advise whether there is any additional hop-up that needs to be purchased ?
   
2. Please advise the suspension setup for Aluminum Damper Set and Sway Bar ?
   I think I am going to use Red Spring (Front) and Blue Spring (Rear) and Yellow Sway Bar (Rear).
   
3. What type of Tamiya’s Damper Oil (Front & Rear) that I should use for the above setup ?
   
4. Considering that I could only use Tamiya’s Hop-up, would it be possible for me to use M06 Bumper (#51437) ?
   
5. Is there any other aftermarket body for 239mm wheelbase (LWB) ?
   I don’t want to use my JCW Coupe for most of the time.

Thank you for reading my post, and I hope to learn a lot from this forum

niznai

I think you need to have a look here:

http://www.rc-mini.net/joomla/index.php

sosidge

I think you have a pretty good setup there. Does the gold edition come with the high torque servo saver? You'll need one of those. Also a stand-up front shock tower is nice if the car doesn't have one already.

If you are restricted to Tamiya hop-ups it would be worth hunting down a TA03 or Manta Ray diff, it is difficult to get the M05 diff as tight as you will probably want it. Or you can try some putty or shims in the standard gear diff to make the action tighter.

I personally think that the softer front spring makes the car trickier to drive, I usually run my car with blue front, yellow rear outdoors, but that is on Sweep tyres and relatively low grip.

For the damper, build as standard and tune from there. #400 oil is OK to start with, thicker oil makes the car slower to react. I try and match the damping to the oil so would go up a grade at the front if I was running a stiffer front spring.

Start with no sway bar, try the softer one first. Get your own feel for it.

Tamiya do several LWB shells, the only non-Tamiya one I know of is a cheap knock-off which I have no idea about the quality of. Bodies get wrecked, that's the nature of RC racing, I always look at the damage as an opportunity to try a different paint job!

Clawhammers

I have already browsed to this site. Very helpful but I still need specific recommendation for the LWB Minis running in asphalt/outdoor track






Dear Sosidge,

I haven't unboxed it yet, but it does say that the kit contains a high torque servo saver. I am planning to assembly the kit after I get the required hop-up parts.

As regards stand-up front shock tower, do you mean the Carbon Front Damper Stay - #54320 ? The price is cheaper than the Aluminum Carbon Damper Stay - #54236. I think I am going to get one

Yup, I am bound to Tamiya hop-ups, and I have browsed several online store for TA03 diff. But I don't think it is worthed to purchase only 1 part and send it by EMS. I'd prefer to insert additional putty / shims in the M05 diff as per your suggestion.

With regards to suspension setup, I understand that it would be reasonable to apply softer spring in the rear rather than in the front. However, I also read several posts stating otherwise, whereby it is recommended to apply softer front spring and stiffer rear spring for asphalt/outdoors.

I will try your suggestion to start with #400 damper oil, and considering that I will run stiffer rear spring, then I will apply #400 at the front and #500/#600 at the rear then. Also to run initially with no sway bar, then apply the softer one first in tuning my Mini

Tamiya original bodies are quite expensive here, and I couldn't find any aftermarket (non-Tamiya) LWB body shell in LHS, and also several online retailers. Most of the available Mini's aftermarket bodies are 210 (SWB) / 225 (MWB).

Many thanks for your kind attention and advises. I really do appreciate it.

tony gray

iTrader: (7)

OK, don't forget people, the rc-mini website will be coming down forever in about 10-12 days.
If you'd like to copy the site for future reference it's actually not hard.
This nifty little bit of FREE software - http://www.httrack.com/
Will let you do it. And it's REALLY easy to use.
Amazingly the whole site is only 165mb and using this bit of software it will download the entire site in such a way that you can still look at in your browser just like normal.
We tried it and the whole site d/loaded in about 90 mins - easy as.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

Can anyone here read Japanese? I'd like to know a little about what's what on this page, particularly the top line. Might be a little too small to read.

sosidge

Kentech has a translated version of that info on his site. Top line about 2009 is just that the M-05 was originally released back then.

monkeyracing

iTrader: (10)

I kinda figured that bit, but what I mean is the text at the very top, upper right. Might reveal the origin of the page. I'm assuming dealer catalog?

sosidge

Distributor or dealer I think. Header image is used by Tamiya on their website so it is internal, not something for public consumption.

Clawhammers

I just noted that Tamiya would release a new part for M-05, i.e., #54583 = M-Chassis front titanium coated ball Suspension Shaft. This was officially introduced in 53th Shizuoka Hobby Show.

I wonder, if Tamiya just announced this part in 21 April, then when would this part be available in the market ?

bakoo

Sorry to see rc-mini.net go - why are you taking it down?
Got some good tips from there when I put my first m-chassis together, thanks

tony gray

iTrader: (7)

We don't have time any more. Plus there isn't a lot that we haven't already covered.

Also, the site need to be upgraded to later edition of the OS to keep functioning and its not worth the time and effort for us to do so.

We've done what we wanted to do, and our FB page will keep running.

niznai

Sorry to hear that, Tony, glad to know you're on FB.

Clawhammer, if you read the mini site you'd have found out no upgrades are needed for a mini, all you need to do is just build it as per instruction manual and go have fun.