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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 09-24-2006, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by bozla
I have a set-up question if I may. I built the kit as per the instructions but the front toe out looks like a lot to me. Should I reduce it or is it good as it is?

btw I love the rc-mini site. It's been really informative, and I loved the oval racing!
Bozla, toe out will vary depending on your ride height too. Any FWD cars (even real ones) tend to pull the leading edge of the front wheels in toward the centre of the car under acceleration. So, what looks like toe-out, becomes toe-in when accellerating.
Our cars are set so that they have about 1-2 degrees toe-out (i.e. not much) at rest and fully loaded. This translates to almost dead straight under power.
If you want a bit more steering, then dial in a few more degrees of toe-out.
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Old 09-24-2006, 05:02 PM
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What motors were you guys running on the tennis court track? Very nice track by the way.
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Old 09-24-2006, 06:36 PM
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Aussie Mini rules state Tamiya Black Sport-Tuned motors, thats what we run all the time.
But they look a lot quicker than that when you're down close to them I must say!
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Old 09-24-2006, 07:47 PM
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Default m03m body

got a close to done Suzuki m03m body 4 sale make a offer
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya mini cooper-s4010189.jpg   Tamiya mini cooper-s4010190.jpg  
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Old 09-24-2006, 08:53 PM
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Cool they looked really fast on the video
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Old 09-24-2006, 08:59 PM
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But if you're out in front, never fast enough Keith!
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Old 09-25-2006, 04:17 AM
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True
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Old 09-25-2006, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by tony gray
Bozla, toe out will vary depending on your ride height too. Any FWD cars (even real ones) tend to pull the leading edge of the front wheels in toward the centre of the car under acceleration. So, what looks like toe-out, becomes toe-in when accellerating.
Our cars are set so that they have about 1-2 degrees toe-out (i.e. not much) at rest and fully loaded. This translates to almost dead straight under power.
If you want a bit more steering, then dial in a few more degrees of toe-out.
Thanks for the reply!
I've taken the toe off a bit, but if I don't get the turn in I'll put it back to factory. I just recieved the esc I got second hand for it, but it doesn't seem to work so I'll have to take my other to see if it'll work. Don't suppose any of you guys have used a super vortex 107 by sanwa? Its kinda old but just seems to get warm and do nothing. I think it's probably fried.
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Old 09-28-2006, 08:11 AM
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[QUOTE=tony gray]Miniman, do you have the internal spacer in the shocks? If so I'd take it out, rougher surfaces need the extra down-travel. But your spring and oil set-up is fine as is.
Set your ride height according to the specs on our website and you should be bang on the money.

Thanks Tony, great website by the way! that mini rally looks like good fun.

I got universals (53597) for my M03M, now im getting alot of chatter/roughness on full left and right turns. is that normal i because i dialled down the turn radius and still get some chatter.
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Old 09-28-2006, 06:22 PM
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Default mo3m

just got a mo3m body done got 1 more to do what do u think
Attached Thumbnails Tamiya mini cooper-s4010195.jpg  
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Old 09-28-2006, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Customworksking
just got a mo3m body done got 1 more to do what do u think

Nice, very nice! I like the colors!
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Old 09-28-2006, 07:55 PM
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[QUOTE=minimanintaiwan]
Originally Posted by tony gray
Miniman, do you have the internal spacer in the shocks? If so I'd take it out, rougher surfaces need the extra down-travel. But your spring and oil set-up is fine as is.
Set your ride height according to the specs on our website and you should be bang on the money.

Thanks Tony, great website by the way! that mini rally looks like good fun.

I got universals (53597) for my M03M, now im getting alot of chatter/roughness on full left and right turns. is that normal i because i dialled down the turn radius and still get some chatter.
maybe you forgot to put o rings inside the drive cup? im just guessing
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Old 09-29-2006, 03:49 PM
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Yeah I'm with Sup, that's about all I can think it might be.... Uni's rarely give any problems.
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Old 09-29-2006, 05:52 PM
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what are the different characteristics between all the M chassis? im thinking of getting one, but i want to know whats the difference between them all. i also want to get the most durable one. i want to do some bashing and i dont really feel like replacing parts, especially since the lhs here doesn't stock tamiya stuff.
edit: actually, im reading up on them on that rc-mini site but any input would be appreciated anyways.
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Old 09-29-2006, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by SSJChar
what are the different characteristics between all the M chassis? im thinking of getting one, but i want to know whats the difference between them all. i also want to get the most durable one. i want to do some bashing and i dont really feel like replacing parts, especially since the lhs here doesn't stock tamiya stuff.
edit: actually, im reading up on them on that rc-mini site but any input would be appreciated anyways.
the swift is front wheel drive and is a mid length it is the best of both worlds, it also has the updated suspension, the has the stronger knuckles, and toe in rear uprights it also comes with 8 of the 14 bearings needed

Last edited by tamiyarcracer; 09-29-2006 at 06:29 PM.
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