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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 07-25-2006, 03:08 AM
  #1831  
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Originally Posted by Andrew Barr
I am not sure. I have the XB Monte Carlo which is a black chasis. I also have the M03-M kit which is also black. They probably have a grey & black one to differentiate between the M03 XB and kit form.
I tried the Tamiya AW (anti wear 53439) grease in my diff last night and it really slowed up the diff action which will provide better traction when powering out of corners. You can also put an additional spacer in the diff which will tighten it even more but i have heard that this chews out Universal CV joints and it is advisable to run the normal dog bones.
its ok, im using dogbones at my mo3. i heard that black chasis is stronger than gray ones..
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Old 07-25-2006, 10:54 PM
  #1832  
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the pignent in the grey plastic makes it weaker and softer
anyone have setup tips for mini carpet racing?????
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Old 07-25-2006, 11:05 PM
  #1833  
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Kit tyres, S or M grips would be the go on carpet.
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Old 07-25-2006, 11:12 PM
  #1834  
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a dead set rs40 would be better
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Old 07-26-2006, 12:35 AM
  #1835  
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Just came back from my first race with the M03L. The track is outdoor asphalt and moderately dusty. Using the stock tires, the car handled like crap. Of course, the car is completely stock, and I drove the car right after driving my TRF415. However, I learned to drive it. I believe you need to drive it slowly, using the brakes often. Using a consistent line will get you around the track pretty quickly.

There was only 1 other Mini in the Novice class(only class for Mini's). The rest were normal 1/10 Touring Cars. At first, everyone passed me. But when I learned to drive the car, I started passing the larger cars with ease (and a good line).

The stock tires didn't handle that great. The rear end kept swinging out a lot at the corners. After 2 heats and 1 main, the tread is almost gone.

In conclusion, this car is fun when you know how to drive it. It is sensitive to steering as it is a FWD car.

My next upgrades will be in order: X-Patterns, oil filled shocks, then bearings.
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Old 07-26-2006, 01:51 AM
  #1836  
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dont forget to get touring car inserts to go with those x patterns, you'll se a big difference in handling and grip
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Old 07-26-2006, 03:18 PM
  #1837  
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tyre choice +insert and ride height is huge for proper handling. proper diff setup is important as well.
the other nite A few of us set up a track for mini on well worn concrete,(STA....Secret Test Area),I mean the blue metal was exposed ,4 cars racing,2 mo3L'S,a mo3m and a mo3.
the mo3 with the kit tyres handled better than the rest with hopup tyres
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Old 07-27-2006, 07:09 AM
  #1838  
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Default Black vs. silver chassis plastic

I contacted Tamiya about the black/silver plastic question. They said other than color they are the same. The pigmentation has no effect on the strength or flexibility of the plastic.
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Old 07-27-2006, 08:03 PM
  #1839  
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does anyone know the weight of the oil that is in the super cva mini shocks and the trinity equivalant
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Old 07-28-2006, 04:24 AM
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I contacted Tamiya about the black/silver plastic question. They said other than color they are the same. The pigmentation has no effect on the strength or flexibility of the plastic.
Interesting. Their technical people told me over five years ago that the silver chanssis was softer because of the additive necessary to turn the plastic silver, while the carbon black in the black chassis did not act as filler and resulted in a stringer, slightly denser product. Personally, over the years I've broken/bent more silver chassis parts than black ones. So go figure.

does anyone know the weight of the oil that is in the super cva mini shocks and the trinity equivalant
The yellow oil that comes with most of the shocks is Tamiya #400, which is roughly equivalent to 40 weight.
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Old 07-28-2006, 04:26 AM
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Sorry, double post-o-tronic

Last edited by rccardr; 07-29-2006 at 10:52 AM.
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Old 07-29-2006, 09:17 AM
  #1842  
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Default manta ray ball diff pressure plate b

Any one know if i can get just the pressure plates for manta ray ball diff? I ground the teeth where the gear box joints go in. Has anyone done this before?
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Old 07-30-2006, 12:06 AM
  #1843  
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Originally Posted by ckbridge
I contacted Tamiya about the black/silver plastic question. They said other than color they are the same. The pigmentation has no effect on the strength or flexibility of the plastic.
Then why did they sell diffrent chasis color??? Marketing strategies???
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Old 07-31-2006, 11:08 PM
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any carpet setup?
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Old 08-01-2006, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by minimanintaiwan
Any one know if i can get just the pressure plates for manta ray ball diff? I ground the teeth where the gear box joints go in. Has anyone done this before?
No, you can't get the plates alone.
Yes, it is/was a common problem to grind those teeth.
Solutions to teeth grinding: the instructions call for a dab of rubber cement to be applied to the splines (teeth) of the plate and the gearbox joint. Another thing that helps is to also place a red shock cap foam (used in the TRF shocks) in the gearbox joint to take up the extra space between the cup and the dogbone/univeral. This keeps the gearbox joint from moving out and away from the plate, the cause of the tooth wear.
Tooth wear seems to be less of a problem with the TA03 ball diff instead of the manta ray ball diff. As you are now going to have to replace the diff, switch to the TA03 diff - it is lighter, and seems to wear better.
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