The carbon plate on top of the servo.

54178 = 1.5 deg
54327 = 1.0 deg

That's a Yeah Racing piece. It went out of production last year. I've got one just to stop the left servo mount from breaking. The part number is M03-039BU or some variation of that. It's listed as "aluminum servo mount with sensor plate".

Good luck!

I just got a TA03 ball diff. To make it spool-like tight, I was told to remove one of the cone washers.

According to the instructions, the cone washers goes like this:

() DIFF )()

I hope the illustration makes sense :lol: Which one should I remove?

Leave out one of the small ones and cinch the diff screw down snug. Diff will be very tight, but doesn't remain smooth for very long. This was a common "trick" a couple of years ago.

I wouldn't do it for longer tracks, but might be just the ticket for the small carpet tracks. Expect to rebuild the diff frequently though.

New MWB Honda Jazz bodyshell from Team Titan/Blitz

http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps4df47656.jpg

^ Very nice.. been running the C30 body for a while now.. might be time to switch!

You can also try leaving the cone washers as standard and just replace the thrust bearing with a standard 1150 sized metal bearing ... if you use that with AW grease on the balls, it will be super tight!

I've heard of this one too, but it never made much sense to me. Also, rumor has it that this is the David Jun mod.

I believe the reason the diff action gets tighter with the substitution of the thrust bearing with the 1150 bearing is that it's thinner. Also, you're asking a radial bearing to act like a thrust bearing and endure loads it wasn't designed to endure. That bearing should not last very long.

I've never tried that mod for the above reason, but will bow to your more extensive experience. And also my reasoning may be in error.

I've tried the bearing substitution. It may be that I was using a cheap bearing, but it didn't last long. I've always wondered if a higher quality ceramic (like $5 worth of quality!) would have been better

Thinking about chucking my one way diff into the backup car. I've always liked that thing, when its working.

Brakes? Bah! Sissy stuff. I never use them.

Hi Granpa,

Yes, I was told this was a David Jun diff mod when he was using the TA03 touring car.

When you clamp down on the thrust bearing with some pliers or a vice you can see it getting thinner, the 1150 just stays the same thickness, it doesn't budge.

I've heard of people running without 1 or 2 of the cone washers but using an 1150 bearing to get a more consistent tightness on their diff. But in terms of feel, their diff felt identical to a standard TA03 diff with AW grease.

I've also heard that there is a difference in thickness from thrust bearing to thrust bearing, which is why an 1150 is said to be more consistent. I can't confirm how true this is as I can't be bothered measuring all the different thrust bearings :-)

I went to the 1150 diff earlier this year. The standard TA03 diff was fine when freshly built with the AW grease, but after 2 runs it would find its level and it just wasn't tight enough. Running the TA03 diff with the 1150 made it too tight initially, but it was more consistent, so I ran with it for a few race meetings. I found that the tightness tapered off after 3 or 4 race meetings, but it was still a lot tighter than a standard TA03 diff. The downside was there was a lot more wheel chatter on full lock. This problem was solved by using the Yeah Racing double joint universals, which I've found to be the strongest out of the double joint universals for the mini, but after a few hard hits at a couple of race meetings the universals would break.
Also the wear on the tires was a lot worse with the tighter diff. I've now changed back to the standard TA03 diff with AW, and standard Tamiya universals.

I've tried the TA03 oneway in the mini, but back in the sport tuned motor days ... it was fun, until there was someone crashed in front of you, and you needed to stop ...

Brakes are the enemy of Speed.

Hello ,first post here. I am running a M05 on a tight technical carpet track with a savox 1251 servo. I have been thinking of upgrading my servo to something better ,possibly Futaba BLS451,9452, or even a S9452HV for serious speed and power. Has anyone tried these servos or any other hi-end servos in their mini's,and is there anything to gain by upgrading ?