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Old 02-07-2012, 05:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Vrooom View Post
For those who run stiffer spring in rear, soft in front. Do you run optional shock tower ??
I run the optional tower up front.

A lot of people seem to like it, it just makes the front of the car more positive.
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Old 02-07-2012, 11:39 PM
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I have had a set of new sweeps sitting around for about a week that I just put on. well that just slammed my car. Never checked the ride hight before but I was 6mm with the TC wheels and tires, like 4mm with the D60 and 2mm or so with the sweeps, and the rear is even lower.

well I am guessing thats no good. Have not opened up the shocks yet but I am guessing there are internal spacers because the a arms are tucked up way past nutral.

so where is a good starting point for ride hight...4-5mm? So its normal to have to open the shocks to change hight if you change tire size? Not that its a hard thing to do.
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Old 02-08-2012, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by dirtman71 View Post
I have had a set of new sweeps sitting around for about a week that I just put on. well that just slammed my car. Never checked the ride hight before but I was 6mm with the TC wheels and tires, like 4mm with the D60 and 2mm or so with the sweeps, and the rear is even lower.

well I am guessing thats no good. Have not opened up the shocks yet but I am guessing there are internal spacers because the a arms are tucked up way past nutral.

so where is a good starting point for ride hight...4-5mm? So its normal to have to open the shocks to change hight if you change tire size? Not that its a hard thing to do.
http://rc-mini.net/joomla/index.php?...=23&Itemid=148

cheers
a
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Old 02-08-2012, 01:44 AM
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Originally Posted by dirtman71 View Post
So its normal to have to open the shocks to change hight if you change tire size? Not that its a hard thing to do.
assuming you are using trf mini shocks, no it isnt normal, as if built per the instructions there would only be one oring on the shaft, under the piston. thus allowing the use of anything from 64mm touringcar wheels to 55mm mini size tyres; and adjusting the preload collar to get the desired height.

however if using the cva shocks then its possible to have built them incorrectly by adding to many spacers to make them shorter to match trf shaft length.

only other explanation for them to being so short would have been to get rid of droop.

also like Ado has linked above is an article i had written a while ago which should help with the heights a little better
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Old 02-08-2012, 03:26 AM
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Originally Posted by dirtman71 View Post
I have had a set of new sweeps sitting around for about a week that I just put on. well that just slammed my car. Never checked the ride hight before but I was 6mm with the TC wheels and tires, like 4mm with the D60 and 2mm or so with the sweeps, and the rear is even lower.

well I am guessing thats no good. Have not opened up the shocks yet but I am guessing there are internal spacers because the a arms are tucked up way past nutral.

so where is a good starting point for ride hight...4-5mm? So its normal to have to open the shocks to change hight if you change tire size? Not that its a hard thing to do.
We have a 3mm ride-height minimum in our local series (which is actually fine with no rubbing to speak of, the cars need less ride height than you might expect), and we also use Sweep tyres.

To get a ride height around 3.5mm at the front and 4mm at the rear plus a smidge of droop, you need to build the (Tamiya) shocks to a total length of 56.5mm.

The TRF shocks built with the o-ring come in at closer to 55.5mm, so the car will be too slammed unless you find a slightly thinner spacer to put inside or unscrew the shock bottom a couple of turns.

The CVA shocks build up about right with the 6mm spacer included in the pack, you could maybe use 5.5mm in them if you are too low. Don't unscrew the bottoms of the CVA shocks as they will come off unless tightened fully!
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Old 02-08-2012, 09:37 AM
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I didnt build these shocks, got the car used and I think he was running tc wheels cause it came with a brand new set. 6mm would probably work ok with the tc's

the shocks I am not sure what they are, black plastic oil filled. eyelet to eyelet 50mm. I will open the shocks and check the spacers and set it up for 4mm with the sweep's
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Old 02-08-2012, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by dirtman71 View Post
I didnt build these shocks, got the car used and I think he was running tc wheels cause it came with a brand new set. 6mm would probably work ok with the tc's

the shocks I am not sure what they are, black plastic oil filled. eyelet to eyelet 50mm. I will open the shocks and check the spacers and set it up for 4mm with the sweep's

from the top to bottom of rodend/ ball cups mine measure around 56mm, this is when they are new, if they are warn down, you will get different readings
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Old 02-08-2012, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Tim K View Post
For 55D tyres - Express Radials (I think they are now re-branded as Yeah Racing)
Ansmann radials (if you can find them)

I used Express radials front and rear and they worked well.

For 60D tyres - Tamiya S-Grip and M-Grip. I used M-Grip front and rear and they worked well.

If your rules allow it you can use Tamiya rally block tyres, or Ride Mini pin, the sort that you might find on an offroad RC-18.

Ty very much. I will try
Medium spring for front and hard spring for rear can good work? How much wt shock oil are you using for front & rear?

Last edited by Hidetaki; 02-11-2012 at 03:12 PM.
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Old 02-08-2012, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by sosidge View Post
We use the Sweep pre-mounts at the local carpet championship. No complaints for grip. Always 25s on the rear, usually 33s with glued sidewalls on the front now.

Ty very much. I will try
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Old 02-08-2012, 03:15 PM
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There was 9mm of spacers inside each shock. Removed 3mm on the front and needed 6mm removed on the rear. Now I have 5mm front and rear with the sweeps. And about 2-3mm of drop
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Old 02-08-2012, 07:32 PM
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Selling my M06. I'm getting into some faster classes and this has been sitting on my shelf being unused for too long. It is very fast and is set up very well for medium grip ozite carpet.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...5-shipped.html

Make me an offer!
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Old 02-10-2012, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 1101 View Post
Hi Guys.
Did any of the M03L kits come with bearings ??
I just bought a new M03L online & I just need to know weather to order bearing as well.

Cheers
Just an update...
My M03L kit DID come with OEM wheel bearings, but not gearbox bearings.
Go figure ....

Any idea's on how to keep those kit plastic wheel hex things on the axels when chaging tyres/doing maintaince. The slip off & the pin falls out

Local rules dont allow clamping hex's

Cheers
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Old 02-10-2012, 05:10 PM
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You could apply a little grease to the pin so it's more likely to stay put.
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Old 02-12-2012, 08:42 AM
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Hi All
I've been reading this thread for a long time but never had to ask anything as it was all there already.

Thanks to Ivan many more questions for me not to ask.
However.........

I have an M03M and the ball diff is as tight as it will go, but still feels loose when you hold one tire and spin the other.
My mini pushes hard in the corners which to me means the ball diff is tight.
I run S-grip- F, Slicks- R. I will be testing M grips all around as I recall M grip with hard front gives more grip than S-grips on carpet..

Some have said I don't have enough droop. This confuses me as I've read 5mm under piston and most seem to run .5mm - 1mm droop.
I have removed all rear spacers and left the front alone and will test again.
Shock length was 56mm now 59mm.

Also I did put o-rings on the shock mounting screws, but are the shocks suppose to be tight or move up/down on the mounting screws?

Oh and for the record, Ivan drives circles around me too, even with his supposedly unmaintained mini.
Maybe Jim needs some more rehab and another car to look at.

Thanks

Last edited by chongo; 02-12-2012 at 09:04 AM.
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by chongo View Post
Hi All
I've been reading this thread for a long time but never had to ask anything as it was all there already.

Thanks to Ivan many more questions for me not to ask.
However.........

I have an M03M and the ball diff is as tight as it will go, but still feels loose when you hold one tire and spin the other.
My mini pushes hard in the corners which to me means the ball diff is tight.
I run S-grip- F, Slicks- R. I will be testing M grips all around as I recall M grip with hard front gives more grip than S-grips on carpet..

Some have said I don't have enough droop. This confuses me as I've read 5mm under piston and most seem to run .5mm - 1mm droop.
I have removed all rear spacers and left the front alone and will test again.
Shock length was 56mm now 59mm.

Also I did put o-rings on the shock mounting screws, but are the shocks suppose to be tight or move up/down on the mounting screws?

Oh and for the record, Ivan drives circles around me too, even with his supposedly unmaintained mini.
Maybe Jim needs some more rehab and another car to look at.

Thanks
I would try different tires in the rear. A slicks if that's what you are using is Tamiya's softest ones. Best this to do is check what your fast guys at the track are using. I guess ask Ivan.
The reason some have suggested more rear droop is to give more weight transfer to the front off power coming into a turn.
I would try higher rear ride height than the front and see if that helps with you push.
On my shocks, (Al ones) the shockends can wiggle on the balls to avoid binding. Using step screws to mount the shocks, still should be loose enough to avoid binding. If there is a lot of up down slop then are the plastic end holes worn and now too big?
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