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Tamiya mini cooper

Old 09-15-2011, 10:55 PM
  #15691  
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Thanks! Which Tamiya tires would be a good starting point?

I've got access to S-Grips, the stock M05 S-Spec ones, and the Tamiya slicks.

I picked up a few second hand Tamiya silver 540 motors from my LHS, I'll try them all and see which is the best.
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Old 09-16-2011, 03:17 AM
  #15692  
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i prefer the 55mm...i guess it does help me in steering response and punch out of corners. I'd say highly dependant on track size and layout. Cheers
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Old 09-16-2011, 03:27 AM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
Shimizu makes some decent 60D slicks. Might be worth looking at.
Yes the Shimizu are not bad.

But if you want the ultimate 60D tyres (great grip, turn in and last for absolute ever) you should try the Ride 60D tyre (the older style, not the new Inch up style)

But alas they are no longer made ... thankfully I have a good size supply
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Old 09-16-2011, 05:33 AM
  #15694  
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Just finishing up my first ever mini build, m05 Monte Carlo and I love it.

I noticed this was touched on a few pages back, but I just wanted to reiterate it a little...

Q: can my old hpi rs4 shocks fit the mini chassis? I realize that they might be too long and possibly need to be spaced correctly... But anything else? Use TC springs, or mini springs?

Just trying to cut some corners with spare parts that I have, instead of spending another $150 in upgrades.

Thanks!
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Old 09-16-2011, 05:38 AM
  #15695  
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Your old HPI springs are almost certainly too long. It's really not worth using anything other than the Tamiya short springs. I wouldn't even use the kit springs!

The HPI shocks themselves might fit with a lot of internal spacers. No harm in trying.
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Old 09-16-2011, 10:13 AM
  #15696  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
Shimizu makes some decent 60D slicks. Might be worth looking at.
Jim, the track surface at West Coast Raceway has an insane amount of grip. The tire we're looking for here is not one with the most "grip", but the one with a little less grip. So far, I've personally tried the Rides, Crosses, RPs, ABC, Spice, HPI X-patterns, Hpi radials, but have not tried the Shimizus or the Atomic tires. Most of those had too much grip and would traction roll. Frankly, it's been a frustrating process. The "tuning" window between going fast and traction rolling is really narrow.

The 60d tires all have a sidewall that's too tall and results if traction rolling. Yes, cyanoing the sidewalls helps, but too little and it still rolls and a bit too much and it pushes. Besides, the process itself is a real PITA and time consuming.

Will try the Shimizu tire cause I've tried damn near everything else. Thanx for the suggestion and Barry Baker also told me to try them also.
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Old 09-16-2011, 12:19 PM
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Hey Ya'll.... I am new to this Mini stuff, haven't run a brushed motor in 25 years...

I am not trying to start a Motor War here but....

I need to buy a new silver can motor for my used MO5 that I just bought.
From what I understand there are several kind available, right.?.?
What do you recomennd.?.?
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Old 09-16-2011, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Granpa
Jim, the track surface at West Coast Raceway has an insane amount of grip. The tire we're looking for here is not one with the most "grip", but the one with a little less grip. So far, I've personally tried the Rides, Crosses, RPs, ABC, Spice, HPI X-patterns, Hpi radials, but have not tried the Shimizus or the Atomic tires. Most of those had too much grip and would traction roll. Frankly, it's been a frustrating process. The "tuning" window between going fast and traction rolling is really narrow.

The 60d tires all have a sidewall that's too tall and results if traction rolling. Yes, cyanoing the sidewalls helps, but too little and it still rolls and a bit too much and it pushes. Besides, the process itself is a real PITA and time consuming.

Will try the Shimizu tire cause I've tried damn near everything else. Thanx for the suggestion and Barry Baker also told me to try them also.
Granpa, I just picked up a set of the ride mc38/sc36 low profile 60d tires and the taller rims that go with them. I'll try them out on Sunday and give some feedback on them. Sean at TQ said the guys running them over there are liking them. We'll see how well they work at west coast..
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Old 09-16-2011, 07:58 PM
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So, two questions.

Firstly, what do you guys do to minimize the amount of battery bulge you get?

And secondly, whats the exact process to CA tyres to prevent traction rolling?
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Old 09-16-2011, 08:43 PM
  #15700  
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Originally Posted by StarrRacing
Hey Ya'll.... I am new to this Mini stuff, haven't run a brushed motor in 25 years...

I am not trying to start a Motor War here but....

I need to buy a new silver can motor for my used MO5 that I just bought.
From what I understand there are several kind available, right.?.?
What do you recomennd.?.?
Tamiya #53689
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Old 09-16-2011, 10:25 PM
  #15701  
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Originally Posted by wollow86
What do you guys do to minimize the amount of battery bulge you get?
If you're talking about lipos bulging, the thing to do would be to get them out of the house and into a bucket of sand.
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Old 09-16-2011, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
If you're talking about lipos bulging, the thing to do would be to get them out of the house and into a bucket of sand.
Lol. No. I'm talking about the bulge that the wiring on the pack causes in the side of the bodyshell.
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Old 09-16-2011, 10:38 PM
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Oh...well, don't I feel silly...all I've ever done for that is used an elastic band or tape to get them out of the way as much as possible. You could get some batts with bullet plugs on the top, but they tend to cost a lot more for some reason.
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Old 09-16-2011, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by wollow86
Lol. No. I'm talking about the bulge that the wiring on the pack causes in the side of the bodyshell.
I use the IP 3800 / corally style plugs on top. Either use an alloy battery retainer , or dremel the stock plastic bits to suit.
This is the best way of reducing the bulge. ......
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Old 09-16-2011, 11:02 PM
  #15705  
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Originally Posted by monkeyracing
Oh...well, don't I feel silly...all I've ever done for that is used an elastic band or tape to get them out of the way as much as possible. You could get some batts with bullet plugs on the top, but they tend to cost a lot more for some reason.
The IP package cost around $50-60+ freight , which is around half the price if a decent capacity brick pack.
I zip tie the esc power wires to the chassis rollbar (05) to keep them all nice and snug......
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