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Old 12-28-2001, 11:02 PM   #106
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Well the old car 'might' be for sale if the new one works as good as it looks...which i must say it looks very, very nice...cant wait till monday!!!

kitracer- i cant find anything on the Atlas site about mods to the upper deck and steering links?? Can you give me a direct link to those pages?? Thanks.
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Old 12-28-2001, 11:49 PM   #107
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Gospeed - it looks like they put the steering links on the bottom of the knuckle ala TC3 and added a bump steer spacer. I think they also took material off of the upper deck to make it flex more. Sounds like the track was bumpy.
link-->
http://www.miwahobby.co.jp/atlasa/ja...gkong2001.html

You can translate it here-->
http://world.altavista.com/

if you can get the asian font setup from adobe.com for acrobat reader, you should be able to open the setup sheets at the atlas site. Or better yet, if someone here can put them up as html docs, that would be awesome.
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Old 12-28-2001, 11:56 PM   #108
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Quote:
Originally posted by gospeed
Well the old car 'might' be for sale if the new one works as good as it looks...which i must say it looks very, very nice...cant wait till monday!!!

kitracer- i cant find anything on the Atlas site about mods to the upper deck and steering links?? Can you give me a direct link to those pages?? Thanks.
try this

http://www.miwahobby.co.jp/atlasa/ja...gkong2001.html

you will like this car, use O ring & cut top plate will help tire wear and better steering response.

Car is strong but not flexible ( TC3 & losi claim this can't be done)

is good as the Yok Sp but Altas T is more user friendly

Valus for money I think is great, ( depends where you from)
I saw a Mission in shop yesterday and it comes with PLASTIC drive shaft!
Why would anyone let them get away by selling at such a high price these days. They need to look at some manufacutring cost cutting!!

anyway, buy the car if getting spare parts is no problem for you.
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Old 12-29-2001, 12:35 AM   #109
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Quote:
Originally posted by robk
Gospeed - it looks like they put the steering links on the bottom of the knuckle ala TC3 and added a bump steer spacer. I think they also took material off of the upper deck to make it flex more. Sounds like the track was bumpy.
link-->
http://www.miwahobby.co.jp/atlasa/ja...gkong2001.html

You can translate it here-->
http://world.altavista.com/

if you can get the asian font setup from adobe.com for acrobat reader, you should be able to open the setup sheets at the atlas site. Or better yet, if someone here can put them up as html docs, that would be awesome.
yes, the track was bumpy, good judgement

but the mod on the steering link is to make perfect arlckmen !!! ( can't spell) , Making both wheels turn at the same radius.
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Old 12-29-2001, 01:44 PM   #110
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Kitracer-when you say the car is strong but not flexible , do you mean as the stock kit? Is this why they cut the top deck and added o rings? Many american drivers prefer a very stiff chassis, since we often run on very high traction surfaces like carpet with foam tires.
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Old 12-29-2001, 07:33 PM   #111
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Quote:
Originally posted by robk
Gospeed - it looks like they put the steering links on the bottom of the knuckle ala TC3 and added a bump steer spacer. I think they also took material off of the upper deck to make it flex more. Sounds like the track was bumpy.
link-->
http://www.miwahobby.co.jp/atlasa/ja...gkong2001.html

You can translate it here-->
http://world.altavista.com/

if you can get the asian font setup from adobe.com for acrobat reader, you should be able to open the setup sheets at the atlas site. Or better yet, if someone here can put them up as html docs, that would be awesome.
yes that one is a bumpy and low traction track, I dont think you need to mod your steering and ackerman according to the set up information on Atlas site.
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Old 12-29-2001, 11:28 PM   #112
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Thanks alot for the info guys. i will let you know if i have any more questions on monday when i get the kit
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Old 12-30-2001, 12:23 AM   #113
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Kit racer - i just realized you meant the car wont break yet it's stiff. Sorry, just up too later or something.

gospeed or kansas racer- would you mind putting your carpet setups from the old car here. I'm going to get my rolling again after a bit of a break.
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Old 12-30-2001, 12:52 PM   #114
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One more thing- on the old car i figured the best way to set droop is to put the car on a flat surface w/ no tires, and measure the distance from the axle to the surface. The reason for this is that with variations in inner mount height and front knuckle hieght if you have the racing knuckles, meeasuring the arm may give bad readings or have bad results.
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Old 01-03-2002, 08:50 AM   #115
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robk- i will do that as soon as i find my set up sheets. Good point on measuring the droop...i never thought of that.

The Type T is together and it is very very nice. The fit and finish is superb and alot better than the previous car. The finished product is n othing short of beautiful....heck even if it doesnt work for me on the track...it sure will get lots of attention in the pits

Once again if anyone has any carpet tips let me know.

Is the set up sheet in the kit from the Yatabe arena a carpet set up??? I dont remember.
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Old 01-03-2002, 01:42 PM   #116
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hey gospeed i posted something last night but its gone. It was so late I might have goofed. Anyway i have been working on my car on carpet & 2 things come up: stand the shocks up and lower the front hub (2 spacers on top).

The shocks suck layed down, i tried it way too much roll. I emailed Arthur from integy about this he said you actually can get the new car's shocks even further out on the arm/tower, so that would prolly be even better. Even with the shocks stood up you will need the swaybars on to counter the roll. Also I found that the rear inner mount should have maybe 1 to 1.5 mm spacer under it. i had the mount like 4mm jacked up, and with the racing hubs lowered, it stunk period. The front end got too much grip. Now its way better. Some Schumacher sponsored guys i know confirmed this. Their cars can be changed in a similar way.

Basically you want the rear arms to have a slight upward angle from the chassis similar to a Yokomo.

Also if you flip the shock collars over you can use associaled springs. You will need to use AE or maybe HPI bottom shock collars though. I have been using purples and red but I might change as I keep working on the car. Hpi pistons and shafts are also nice since they fit perfect and you can have a good range of pistons to work with. Shafts are a bit longer too which can help with some shock locations. Cheap too.

One other thing i want to try is to cut the front bumper down so the front-front suspension mount can be on the chassis instead of the bumper. That way I could get no kickup or less than there is now (prolly 1.5-2mm worth). Otherwise you have to space the fron-rear mount up and this screws your roll center. I dont know how the new car is but maybe this would be something to check out.

Good luck
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Old 01-04-2002, 01:42 AM   #117
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Quote:
Originally posted by robk
hey gospeed i posted something last night but its gone. It was so late I might have goofed. Anyway i have been working on my car on carpet & 2 things come up: stand the shocks up and lower the front hub (2 spacers on top).

The shocks suck layed down, i tried it way too much roll. I emailed Arthur from integy about this he said you actually can get the new car's shocks even further out on the arm/tower, so that would prolly be even better. Even with the shocks stood up you will need the swaybars on to counter the roll. Also I found that the rear inner mount should have maybe 1 to 1.5 mm spacer under it. i had the mount like 4mm jacked up, and with the racing hubs lowered, it stunk period. The front end got too much grip. Now its way better. Some Schumacher sponsored guys i know confirmed this. Their cars can be changed in a similar way.

Basically you want the rear arms to have a slight upward angle from the chassis similar to a Yokomo.

Also if you flip the shock collars over you can use associaled springs. You will need to use AE or maybe HPI bottom shock collars though. I have been using purples and red but I might change as I keep working on the car. Hpi pistons and shafts are also nice since they fit perfect and you can have a good range of pistons to work with. Shafts are a bit longer too which can help with some shock locations. Cheap too.

One other thing i want to try is to cut the front bumper down so the front-front suspension mount can be on the chassis instead of the bumper. That way I could get no kickup or less than there is now (prolly 1.5-2mm worth). Otherwise you have to space the fron-rear mount up and this screws your roll center. I dont know how the new car is but maybe this would be something to check out.

Good luck
All basic tuning tips like those you've mentioned can be found at this
XRay set-up book.
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Old 01-07-2002, 09:53 PM   #118
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Wow the new car worked great last night. I ran it for the first time on a small carpet track with the box stock set-up and 60 weight oil. I ran Sorex 28 front, and Sorex 24 rears with great success.

robk- I will get you some set-ups soon...i have been too busy playing with the new car..its quite a looker
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Old 01-07-2002, 10:27 PM   #119
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Hey a few more things about the old car at least.

It seems to like the same spring front and back. I fooled around with other stuff but the best change was equalizing the springs. I had Associated blues on with swaybars front and rear. I'm not sure if it can use a heavier spring on the rear, or if i should go heavier all the way around yet but it has been ok.

Run lots of droop in the rear. I don't know if the new car has droop limiters, but I drilled some into the arms of my car. It felt way better when I added a significant amount of droop to the back. I remembered this from the summer, when i took some droop out of the rear and it got loose. The front however looks to be more tolerant of less.

I think you have to run some antisquat in the car. I don't know how much is right yet, but I had 2mm in the back of the car. It helps to get the thing to rotate a bit more going in. i also added some kick up in front as well. I did this before changing the spring so the car might be ok without it. We'll see how much stays in as the car was a bit tight in the middle & getting out of the corner. LESS anti squat helps there.

By the b main the car was ok but I drove like a dork, and blew second place.

Gospeed- What do you think the major difference is between the old & new cars? Better or about the same?

Diva- thanks
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Old 01-07-2002, 11:22 PM   #120
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Quote:
Originally posted by robk
Hey a few more things about the old car at least.

It seems to like the same spring front and back. I fooled around with other stuff but the best change was equalizing the springs. I had Associated blues on with swaybars front and rear. I'm not sure if it can use a heavier spring on the rear, or if i should go heavier all the way around yet but it has been ok.

Run lots of droop in the rear. I don't know if the new car has droop limiters, but I drilled some into the arms of my car. It felt way better when I added a significant amount of droop to the back. I remembered this from the summer, when i took some droop out of the rear and it got loose. The front however looks to be more tolerant of less.

I think you have to run some antisquat in the car. I don't know how much is right yet, but I had 2mm in the back of the car. It helps to get the thing to rotate a bit more going in. i also added some kick up in front as well. I did this before changing the spring so the car might be ok without it. We'll see how much stays in as the car was a bit tight in the middle & getting out of the corner. LESS anti squat helps there.

By the b main the car was ok but I drove like a dork, and blew second place.

Gospeed- What do you think the major difference is between the old & new cars? Better or about the same?

Diva- thanks
For the down travel, you should use as little as possible for high grip track in order to minimize the weight transfer. Furthermore, if you need more steering, try to use the closest steering rod position between the 2 steering posts. That would provide more aggressive ackerman angle.
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