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Old 06-16-2003, 09:44 AM   #571
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Default Universal pin keeps coming loose. HELP!

Hi, quick question here for the YM34T drivers. I have the stock set up with the front 1 way and center 1 way. I have raced the car for 2 days and I have had the front CVD pin come loose 3 times. I am talking about the little pin that holds the dog bone together with the CV. Do you guys have that happen a lot? If so, what do you do to prevent that?

TIA,

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Old 06-16-2003, 05:50 PM   #572
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I had one come out once. I just loc-tite'd the sh*t out of it and it never did again. Make sure the threads are grease free wherever you apply the loc-tite
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Old 06-16-2003, 06:30 PM   #573
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Thanks! I'll give it a shot. I hate driving with 3 wheels.

Will the lock-tite permanently lock/glue the parts up? What if you want to replace/rebuild parts of the universal?
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Old 06-16-2003, 06:57 PM   #574
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There are two types of loctite:

Blue - same as the Tamiya threadlock, will allow for removal of screw later.

Red - pretty strong stuff, you could have trouble geting the screw out.
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Old 06-16-2003, 07:27 PM   #575
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I've found the Tamiya threadlock to be easier to remove than blue Loctite since its softer and peels off easier. Although the blue Loctite tends to resist vibrations better.
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Old 06-16-2003, 09:00 PM   #576
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Hey Itch, what you doing on the Atlas forum? Going to add an Atlas to your collection?
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Old 06-16-2003, 10:47 PM   #577
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Quote:
Originally posted by JohnA
Hey Itch, what you doing on the Atlas forum? Going to add an Atlas to your collection?
Oops sorry I lost my way going back to the 'cuda forums now
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Old 06-30-2003, 10:48 PM   #578
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I got a tip from one of the guys who runs our track. Seeing how I am too cheap to order a diff, he told me to put 5000wt diff oil in my front one-way. Wow, the best of both. It slows down well for the corners without any cornering speed loss. The effect is wearing off a little as the oil is getting ejected so I might try a light coat of 25,000wt and see if that lasts. A ghetto style trick but it works for me.

I would have won the A main sunday if I could have missed one stinkin' dot. Oh well, 2nd ain't bad. In practice I nailed a board and thought I broke but it was just the cvd pin popped out of the axle. Hehe, 6 months of racing my type T without a single broken part. Unbelievable. *knock wood*

And I read back awhile ago that losi xxxnt diff rings are the same size as the type T diff rings, right? Have those rings been working ok?

How's everybody's racing going BTW?
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Old 07-01-2003, 09:45 AM   #579
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Not bad. I have been out a few times and am placing top three. I can not quite get the top end of the TC3's at my track. They pull a couple of car lengths down the straight. I may buy a new motor and see if the problem is solved. Anybody have any ideas how to get more top end speed out of these things without gearing higher? Perhaps different bearings? I am running a 64pitch 120 tooth spur and a 40 tooth pinion. I went to a 42 tooth pinion but top speed seemed to actually decrease. I am running a Trinity Monster Horsepower stock motor but my buddies TC3 with a Green machine pulls me on the straight? I thought the Monster horsepower was the faster of the two motors in a straight line? Anyway I will try the oil in the one-way and see what happens.

Has anybody sanded out there battery slots to allow the battery to sit lower in the chassis? Any handling difference?

What hop-ups have been used in this forum on the Type-T and what makes a difference? Does the Alloy Bell Crank Set take any of the slop out of the steering? How about the U3 rear suspension mount? Does changing the front castor make the car quicker through the tight stuff?

I know, a lot of questions, but I am relatively new to RC and would love to smoke some TC3's with my Japanese "Knock off" as the guys at the track call it!

Later.
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Old 07-01-2003, 09:46 AM   #580
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Actually one more question. I just received my second car and it arrived missing the little black plastic stabilizer mounts. Would anybody have an extra set of these they would want to sell? I need two.

Thanks.
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Old 07-01-2003, 09:51 AM   #581
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clay - racin's been pretty bad here. our outdoor clubs are crap, and indoor is only once every third week. i'm still running the t, but i think i'm about done with it. i've heard about packing the oneway full of heavy grease for carpet applications. i've heard it works really well.

you're right that atlas will never break. i think mine will actually regenerate when i'm not racing.

speaking of which....atlas type t for sale with cyclone purple label and...

comes with atlas ym34-v3 as well in parts, with a few missing pins, and front cv's are trashed. i might be able to find some replacements from other cars.



175 and shipping.

[email protected]

lata.
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Old 07-01-2003, 10:45 AM   #582
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What kind of shape is the T in Seaball? Any wear on the chassis? Do you have spare stabilizer mounts with the YM34 I could use on my T?

Thanks.
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Old 07-02-2003, 07:09 AM   #583
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dragnet - it is in good shape. it does have some scratches on the bottom, and some small dremel marks. i think it still looks good though. the usual wear from smooth asphalt. i do have some spare stabilizer mounts, as well as some aluminum ones.

i thought i'd also mention that the t is fitted with aluminum screws through most of the upper locations and stainless everywhere else. also, the anodizing has been removed and all of the pieces have been polished to bright aluminum. (12 hrs worth of dremeling) the motor mount has been drilled some 15 times from the inside to remove unnecessary material. none of the holes go all the way through.

in addition to the cyclone and a spare v3 car i also have

- one extra set of front hubs (alum)
- both 1* and 2* alum rear hubs
- aluminum hingepin mounts for the v3 (option)
- tons of castor blocks
- tons of plastic front hubs
- extra rear arm (newer type t style)
- i think an extra set of belts (not including the v3 belts)
- diff rings


do check out my pics from a few months back. the car looks the same as i have run it mostly on carpet.

it's a great deal if you will be sticking with the atlas car for a while.
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Old 07-02-2003, 06:52 PM   #584
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Default ym34 troubles

hello all i have just been running the v3 because it is easier to se up. ie kick up and castor changes.i have been reading the thred alot andmany seem to have trouble with the T. i have two of them. it is hard to set the sucker up but when you do its's on point. it has to be set up real soft to get it to work only on asphalt.carpet harder i use two upper cecks glued together to work semi decent. v3 is the better of the two. i run high roll centers and 1 deg fornt kick up and 0 in rear.55wt all around.
I have had many good wins with the car and seems the car works best in mod and on asphalt with one ways.

i am selling a brand new never run built T with a v3 with tons of parts so you will nver have to buy parts ever. 225 shipped.
selling because 3 v3's too many and 2 t's to many.
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Old 07-02-2003, 07:15 PM   #585
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ya'know i was gonna set up the v3 for many reasons. weight balance, and roll centers being the main ones.

i actually had a detailed conversation with robk a few weeks back about the t. he was the previous owner. we came to the same conclusion. that the t roll center is ultra low in the rear, even with the raised inside blocks in use. the arms will hit the bearing carrier so they can't be mounted too terribly high. and raising the front will just kill the desired roll axis. so i personally think that that is the type t downfall. short of serious fabrication, the rollcenter remains undesireably low.

if i don't sell this stuff, i'll likely run the v3. i like saddles, and the drivetrain is so free on my t.

trouble is i'm infatuated with my rclab seven even 6.0 pro. say that 3 times fast.

we'll see.

also - i've sold my cyclone, so the rest of the deal goes for $135 shipped. c'mon now...12 hours of polishing's got to be worth something.
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