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Old 03-03-2003, 05:19 PM   #436
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Good to see a new Type-T poster on the thread.

If by wheel wobble you mean the play on the inside wheel when the steering is locked, Seaball helped me with this one. It's all to do with the angle the steering links are at.

For minimum wobble avoid an extreme angle so keep the suspension mounts in the standard position and use the outside holes on the hubs. I'll have a browse through your folder when I'm not at work.
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Old 03-03-2003, 07:12 PM   #437
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welcome freqetag,
sounds like you got a great deal. about the front suspension mount. i didn't look back, but i bet it was robk that posted about that. the idea behind that mod is two fold. first, it will take about 4* of overall castor away from the front. the blocks are about 2 and the carriers are 7. so you go from around 9 down to 5. that is the main reason for the mod, as atlas doesn't have any reduced castor hub carriers. secondly the front kickup of 2* is reversed to 2* of front antidive. this reduces the amount of forward chassis pitch under decelleration. this mod is an attempt to maximize the initial turn in response. the large original castor angle makes for a sluggish turn in on ozite. i'm going to reverse the blocks for the next time i have it out. hope that helps. for both you and the atlas!

later.
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Old 03-03-2003, 07:42 PM   #438
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Arrow Thx for the welcome!

Thx for the help guys~

Seaball, do you have a pic of the droop screw installed? I need to do this first I think.

Also real quick, what shock oil and spring to start with??

Thx again!
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Old 03-04-2003, 12:00 AM   #439
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had a much better weekend then last. There was a tc3 that managed to post the fastest lap, but I proved to be the more consistant driver in the main. The track setup had two 180degree corners, i think the oneways were hurting me coming into those, too much speed. The delrin diff deffinitely makes acceleration a little more snappy. I was a little bit worried about the handling characteristics being upset taking that much weight from the rear, but i had to add a 1/4oz back by the motor and corner felt as good as ever. That is an intresting idea moving the camber block around. I just had that apart the other day. I run on ozite and have mad turn in, so im not too worried about tearing the front apart any time soon.

I snapped a pic for you guys, somebody mentioned the battery brace. There will be 16 more TI screws in it by this time next week.

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Old 03-04-2003, 12:13 AM   #440
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i was running that atlas motor, and it runs great, but it arks too much. This is a problem i havent had in years. It arks so bad it was causing me to glitch and i was forced to put my best monster motor in for the last heat and main. The atlas motor felt like it was turning more Rs down the straight at the same gearing, which was apparent on the dyno as well. Atlas had brushes that had one side shaved down to increase the effect of timing, and they were serated. I put in some fullface silver promatch brushes hoping to eliminate the arks, but it was not enough, i turned the comm at the same time. Im also running one cap from '+' to '-'. Ive been thinking about adding two more, + to ground and - to ground. Let me know if you guys got any ideas.

Its the V10R pro that i have, i was looking on integys site. The overall build of the motor looks a little better than a trinity motor, especially the quality of the arm. I also have a V10 wich never made it past the dyno. The arm wasnt ballanced and its performance was very poor. i would recommend trying the v10r, the single motor i have runs great on the dyno and track. Its fun to run a chassis and a motor made by the same company. It also adds to the purple theme...

Last edited by synapse79; 03-04-2003 at 12:15 AM.
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Old 03-04-2003, 11:31 AM   #441
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Any ideas as to where to get those cool aluminum battery braces? I know someone said they were in the kit? I never saw any in mine.

Also, anyone, shock oil- 60wt or 40wt?

Off to the track tonite for the second go, Back to original kit setup, moved steering link to rear of hub carrier, hopefully less wobble! 40wt, blue springs, Sorex 24 (frt) 20 (r) with HPI Red inserts. Sound like a good place to start?

Thx!
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Old 03-04-2003, 01:44 PM   #442
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are you using inch up wheels?
If not, you should use the HPI rounded inserts with standard diamater wheels, the tires wear more evenly with rounded inserts.

When i got the car i rebuilt the shox with 60wt all the way around and have left it that way. It is a little rear end happy, but it can be controlled by being smooth, and its good for squaring off corners if i need to. Im also currently running the stock springs. Im waiting on a set of blue/purple springs from integy which should be a slight bit stiffer than the stock springs. Ive noticed the chassis is so stiff that the suspension needs to be somewhat softer than a chassis with even a little flex.

For the battery brace, try integy or jethobby. If they cant help you, you should be able to get one directly from atlas, but you may want to explain to them that you have already tried to distributors.
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Old 03-04-2003, 11:20 PM   #443
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Talking Race Night Horrors and Surprises!

Jeez, tonite couldn't have started off any worse.. First, I had a ton of trouble with the front universals, wobble, pins coming out, etc. (nightmare) I honestly think this a weak point in the car.

Second I kept losing batteries out the side with the slightest biff on my part.

Here's how I solved the front end problem:

HPI RS4 front hubs, MIP CVD's for the RS4, and the correct bearings (inner and outer) I had to remove a small amount of material from the top and bottom of the hubs to fit but it is PERFECT. The MIP CVD's are SUPER smooth, no wobble, NONE, even at full lock!!! The hub is now centered in the carrier which for the strangest reason produces LESS roll in the corners AND faster turn-in. The car rocks now. Guys I know I'm new here but I gotta tell ya, this the only way to fly. (One note: I did use the TOP aluminum hubs for the RS4 and the older MIP CVD's that have the flanged axle<larger inner bearing>)

Just thought I'd share this.

Lastly I taped in my batteries, problem solved.

Let me if others want any more info on this.
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Old 03-04-2003, 11:27 PM   #444
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i really like the atlas cvd and axle...
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Old 03-04-2003, 11:35 PM   #445
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Default Must be me I guess

Both my kits had this bizarre axle thing. Hit the gas with the wheels turned, clickity click, and the wheel wobbled. Very strange.

I guess either way its good to know that RS4 stuff is practically identical.

Thx again for the advice
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Old 03-05-2003, 02:13 AM   #446
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yer i run the type T and i get wheel wobble at full wheel lock

i've just rebuilt my car with a new chassis, since my old one snapped.

Do any of you run titanium screws in your cars ??

I put all Ti screws into mine, but at $1.50 AUD a screw it wasn't cheap

but anyway i've yet to have a really good run of the car but it looks like i'll have to wait until 2 weeks after the melbourne GP for out next race meeting.

Where abouts did you guys place lead weights on your cars? i had to add about 40 grams to mine, i placed 15grams infront of servo, 10 behind, 10 in centre of chassis and 5 at the back.
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Old 03-05-2003, 02:17 AM   #447
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synapse are those body post mounts an atlas option part or a different brand ?? could you please tell me they look fucking nuts !
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Old 03-05-2003, 08:06 AM   #448
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you can get the posts through integy.

I only put lead towards the back left side by the motor, because the chassis is already frontend heavy compared to most sedans. I was also trying to keep the handling characteristics the same with delrin diff inplace of the steel diff.
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Old 03-05-2003, 04:14 PM   #449
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Quote:
Originally posted by j0n0
synapse are those body post mounts an atlas option part or a different brand ?? could you please tell me they look fucking nuts !
Watch the language Jono, there's kids using this forum.

As for your wobble at full lock, use the outer holes on the hubs instead of the inner ones and that will improve things.
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Old 03-05-2003, 07:30 PM   #450
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doesnt the inner hole proved for a more natural steering acrimen...
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