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Old 02-18-2003, 05:36 PM   #406
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yes. from what i understand it is normal. desirable? no. but the thin c/f used for the top deck and battery brace flexes alot, and the brace really needs two posts at the front if it were designed correctly. i had to use tape in addition to the brace around the front cells. i was not happy about that, but i'll deal.

sounds like keithander's put some nice items on that spares list. i'm jealous.

and yeah, 50 oz is very difficult to achieve w/o killing the bumper. rubber tires typically only account for about 1 -1.5 oz over foams. so that still leaves 1.5-2 oz to shave on the car itself. that's around 40 - 55g.
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Old 02-18-2003, 05:58 PM   #407
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For those of you having problems with the batteries moving side to side there is an option part available in Japan. I have never seen it available at Integy. What it is, is two small bars that bolt onto the chassis on each side of the battery slots. If you notice there are two hols on each side. I thought I had a picture of it on my car but I didn't have it on when took the picture. You might ask synapse79 if he could snap a picture of it. Even though I misplaced one I think I included one of them with the car when I sold it to him.
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Old 02-18-2003, 06:05 PM   #408
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Yeah, there is one purple alum brace about two inches long on the outside of the battery slot. I was somewhat afraid of the battery shorting out on it, but it has not been a problem so far. The cells dont seem to be able to shimmy to the inside, and the brace deffinitely keeps them from moving to the outside. My cells slots are rather deep also, the cells really sit down into them. A few of my packs had single cell wrap which had to be removed to get the pack to fit between the purple stand offs and the alum brace.

I really like the stock bumper. Until i had a XXXS i have never run a foam bumper. I dont see any reason to have very large one, maybe there are other problems that need to be sorted if so.
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Old 02-18-2003, 08:27 PM   #409
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hey synapse,
yeah i just drive better if i know i can clip a corner w/o damaging anything. my foam is standard, but i made a polycarbonate lower plate that's about 150 mm wide. it let's me be more aggressive, and i learn faster that way. at our track it's 90 % tc3's. and they never break. how is that i wondered. it's the wimpiest touring car ever as far as arms go. but the brp or rpm bumpers are like 170mm and that keeps these guys running strong all day. it made me jealous, so i've been trying to duplicate it. my rclab was always strong with the factory bumper. i dunno, i guess i just hate breaking. it's always being off an inch or two that does it. just missing the bumper enough to catch the inside wheel.

by the way, how did your body not flap around from aero drag and road nuissances w/o the foam to rest against? i've run w/o foam as well, but it looked ugly.
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Old 02-18-2003, 08:55 PM   #410
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I have always run indoor carpet stock, so air drag causing the body to flap was never really a big problem. I raced 12thscale for a few years before HPI came out with the RS4. I dont believe 12thscales run foam bumpers today, i could be wrong though, its been a while. I think HPI came out with a foam bumper after the release of the pro and a few guys had them. I had a pro2 an express and an SST.. and a kawada and never ran a foam bumper on them, if you give me a minute i could probably think of a few more sedans I have raced.

Does the atlas foam bumper even contact the front of the body, im not sure if it does.

Around here there are some novice guys and some guys that have been racing at the same novice level for years, and they break a good bit of TC3 parts. They run a 2nd bumper with a huge foam bumper i refer to as "cow plow".

I have reluctantly tested the durability of the atlas on a few occasions, and it has proven to very tough. The arms are fairly thick. If you actually hit something hard enough to break something it could be pretty ugly...

Its best to slow down in hairy situations, because moving slow is better than not moving at all, such as getting stuck or breaking something. If it is impossible to keep from smacking something, its best to get off the throttle as quickly as possible to keep from putting a large load on the motor and battery, which is going to cause heat and loss of punch, not to mention the risk of breaking something.
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Old 02-18-2003, 09:06 PM   #411
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word. i'm usually to blame for braking stuff. just missing a turn. usually a tight 90 off of a straight or something similar. maybe i'll get some guts and run skimpy up front, but definitely not until i can get the car to do what i intend it to. in time!

man, it's nice to be part of a chassis thread that isn't dead. actually until integy cleared them out, this thread was like a once a month post. we'll see what happens. later.
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Old 02-19-2003, 08:04 PM   #412
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I'd like to vouch for the type T's strength. Last night at a local meeting I was tearing up the straight at full throttle, hit a bump near the end of the straight which lifted the front wheels off the ground. By the time they came back down the end of the straight was a foot away and marked out with a concrete curb

Other than a dented shell there wasn't a mark on the car, UJ's and hinge pins are still as straight as the day I got it.

On another note, has anyone tried putting droop screws in the arms? There looks like enough material there to do it.

It is good that the thread is getting a good few posts, lets keep it up!
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Old 02-19-2003, 08:27 PM   #413
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thats why i have been trying to stick with atlas springs, they seem to be short enough to run about 5mm.

So far that has been working for me personally. If you cant get the right spring rate with atlas springs, or you are looking to limit corner lean, then you might have a prob.
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Old 02-19-2003, 08:37 PM   #414
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yeah, robk drilled out the arms for droop screws for me. there's plenty of material for a 4-40 or 3mm screw. i prefer the latter as it's thread is finer. i dunno if it shows in any of the pics.
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Old 02-19-2003, 08:39 PM   #415
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yup, it does.
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Old 02-19-2003, 09:50 PM   #416
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At first I did have a bit of problem with the car rolling too much into the corners, I made some sway bars out of music wire that turned out pretty good. That has helped a lot but I would like to play with droop a bit without the hassle of using inner spacers. I'll give Seaball's mod a try.

Thanks all.
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Old 02-21-2003, 11:20 PM   #417
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Thumbs up ym-34 type...carpet?

hey all. i wish i could take credit for the droops, but i can't. regardless, i may soon have something that i can take credit for. a new chassis, and top plate. i have yet to lay it out, but i soon will. here is the premise.

weight is not an issue for rubber tire events, but on foams it is a task to come in under weight. this would be the narrowest upper/lower deck tc chassis that i know of that still accepts sidexside packs. all of the hole positions would remain unchanged. just moving the batteries for balance and stiffening the top deck. and most of all, it would not require any additional weight to be balanced. only moving the motor out/in to account for gp's or whatever the future brings. f/r weight distribution would essentially remain unchanged.

materials:

MAIN CHASSIS
- 2.5mm thick carbon fibre lower chassis
- around 12mm narrower than kit chassis
- sharing all the same holes for essential mounting
- batteries moved about 12mm toward centerline
* dimensions subject to change based on testing

TOP DECK
- 2.5mm carbon fiber top deck thick with stiffer design

ACCESSORIES
- new longer front belt
- tensioner for front belt (to lift over cells at front)
- 1-1/4" x .072 aluminum washers to shim motor depending on what cells you are using.

i'm wondering this. what kind of interest would all of you have in purchasing the above items in a kit that would use all other existing type t parts? i'd like to make myself one, but i may as well stack the plates when cutting or drilling and turn out a few. my pricing would be only to cover materials and tool wear... and any other personal injuries incurred durring the process.

let me know your interest. heck, with the money you've saved on ebay!...jk
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Old 02-22-2003, 12:30 AM   #418
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Default My cracked chassis

This is what not to do to your Atlas like i did and was forced to run a losi at Hoppers Crossing.

My car also has some droop screws in the arms that work well, i'll get some pics of that this friday.
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Old 02-22-2003, 12:31 AM   #419
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A close up of the damage
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Old 02-22-2003, 08:07 AM   #420
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wow, that must of been a hard hit...
the atlas chassis is quite a bit thicker than the chassis on my ol 414m2
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