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Old 02-12-2003, 01:56 PM   #361
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So I stayed up till 5am building my new T. Just waiting for the rec to show to finish it. Looks like my 28mm foams are gonna rub a little. And how much did you grind away on the battery slots? Never had to do that before.

I can't wait till Saturday to race it. Still have to figure out a bumper and body mounting stuff.
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Old 02-12-2003, 03:21 PM   #362
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claydoh - just an fyi - the home depot sells these mats that are used to stand on. they are 2ft x 2ft x 1/2 in and come in packages of four for about 15 - 20 dollars. grey or primary colors. when doubled up with ca glue as a bonding agent, they make awesome bumper material. super light and fairly stiff, and you'll never run out of it. just use a sharp blade to cut it and a dremel to dress the edges and you'll be set. also can be used as a car stand. just cut out the chassis shape and viola. really good stuff.
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Old 02-12-2003, 03:28 PM   #363
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Claydoh - Integy also do a purpose fit bumper for the car - YM8-182 - hard urethane bumper @ $5.99.

Just file the chassis or use a dremmel until the cells sit in a bit better, the angle you file the edges will form a \ / shape and stop the sharp chassis cutting up your cells.
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Old 02-12-2003, 04:09 PM   #364
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Got a HPI bumper on mine, fits perfectly, the body posts are HPI / Tamiya width.

A TA04/Evo bumper would also do the job but you might have to use wider based body posts, or wrap some tape around the base as the pre-drilled holes are larger than HPI.
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Old 02-12-2003, 04:38 PM   #365
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Got a HPI bumper on mine, fits perfectly, the body posts are HPI / Tamiya width.

A TA04/Evo bumper would also do the job but you might have to use wider based body posts, or wrap some tape around the base as the pre-drilled holes are larger than HPI.
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Old 02-13-2003, 08:25 AM   #366
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hey
I have some parts form my YM34T. I have a set of purlple alum hubs and a complete delrin diff. The diff actually has less slop than I remember having and is in good shape, it is still very smooth, it is also sealed. One of the hubs is stripped about 1/2 way up one of the king pin holes. Im looking for 30bux for everything shipped.





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Old 02-13-2003, 02:16 PM   #367
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seaball-- the rear mount should be 1/2 degree per side. Also, check your mail. Thanks
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Old 02-13-2003, 02:33 PM   #368
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synapse - that diff is tempting. how many runs did you say you put on it? i don't want the hubs though. i have a backup pair as it is.

all - what was the type t's creator thinking with the battery on one side...w/o offsetting the motor to account??? i see that's what happened on the si. hummm... wonder why? could it be that i have to mount my transponder outside the servo...AND add 35 grams of weight on the servo to balace the car? yup. i'm baffled. really this had concerned me from it's inception, but i just figured well, it'll work out... the battery is way in, and the servo is way out. fat chance! i've even shimmed the motor out .250" (as far as i can with a normal pinion). i've got a pic for you fellas to see. i'm very disheartened about running this weekend. yeah, i'll get it to work and be close to balanced, but with everything hanging off left, it ruins the aesthetics, and the idea of a kxone style, mimimal inertial moment car. dam!

now i've got to cut a new chassis where the batteries overlap the centerline of the chassis. this requires putting a tensioner just in front of the batteries to lift the belt over the cells, drop the drag link, and reverse the servo to put the bellcrank tab on the outside like a schumacher. wonderfull planning team atlas!

i just hope i'm speaking in haste, and i've forgot something of significant weight. maybe i could use my high school shot put just behind the servo! i think atlas actually released a chassis for that, complete with a 2" hole for it to sit in. and if i remember correctly it was only $179.00. just $10.00 more than the delrin outdrives!

anyway guys, prove me wrong! i want to like this car. the suspension is so nice, with wheelbase adjustment, and long arms, beefy arms, alum hubs...you get the picture. now look at mine.

the car is balanced on two pinpoints with the bubble in the center on my level sitting on the upper deck. this isn't even with gp's either! note my .250 shims on the motor. each nickel weighs 5g and i approximated the cyclone with 40g and the xxl with 15 according to specs. wires, will be fairly symetrical (or even more on the battery side). i dunno. please comment.
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Old 02-13-2003, 02:35 PM   #369
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better view of motor offset.
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Old 02-13-2003, 02:50 PM   #370
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btw - i just checked the rear block. approximate #'s are as follows:

hingepin length = 1.600
separation at front = .890
separation at rear = .950

arcsin(.060/1.600) = 2* (closer to 2.15* but whose counting)
so i'm thinking 1* per side. which is exactly what it looks like. i have the 1* hubs backwards and my rear toe is precisely 0*.
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Old 02-13-2003, 05:22 PM   #371
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Seaball

You have me worried!

I have noticed that the balance was a bit off but haven't had the car on any scales yet. I'm at a big meeting on Saturday so planned to get the car up to minimum weight ( if it isn't already) and at the same time balance the car up. I don't really think a few grammes over will make too much of a difference, and the car to me still shows a lot of promise so don't give up on it.

On another note, how did you get rid of the purple anodizing?
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Old 02-13-2003, 05:28 PM   #372
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Yeah, I just finished getting my wired and set for this weekend and now I am worried about balance. And my 28mm foams are grinding bad on the rear. Well, this is just a shake out weekend anyway.

I think the silver looks better than purple but that looks like too much work to polish it like that
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Old 02-13-2003, 11:07 PM   #373
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hey fellas,
don't fret. we'll get this worked out. this is actually a shakedown for me as well. i just wasn't too pleased with the prelims. hehe.

the anodizing comes off easily in a solution of lye (the drain opener stuff) and water. with a concentrated mix, the purple will vanish in seconds. of course this was followed with about 10 hours of hand polishing with the dremel. in spurts of course. but the purple makes me so sick, and that's what got me through the polishing phase.

also spoke with robk tonight (previous owner of my type t) and i've this to say. what a cool dude. thanks rob. anyway he shed some light on the t.

- first use strapping tape for the cells across the front and rear. the brace fits loosely with umh or smaller cells and flexes alot. there are two slots near the the 2 and 5 cells for this purpose. this should also shed about 15 grams if you remove the posts as well.

- second if you are finding balance not too your liking, shim the motor out .250. this was my idea, and i should have some big aluminum heatsink/rings available in the coming weeks for this purpose.

- mount transponder off of the servo. the wider the better.

- try double diff setup if you're running carpet and have the materials. almost nobody runs oneways on carpet here. maybe center.

- there's a link in the miwa hobby home page with some of the mods that the quys in the orient are running. i couldn't find it, but there's supposedly some cool stuff in there. maybe give it a try. seems like those guys are weighting the left side heavily as well.

i'm interested to see how you guys do with the atlas. post your findings. i really want to get this car to work. time to go into the "lab" and ponder.

see ya.
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Old 02-14-2003, 12:11 PM   #374
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I think they were trying to get the battery as centered as possible. It cant be dead center because of the belt. The electronics should help to offset the battery not being perfectly centered.
The centered motor with a mostly centered inline battery deffinitely works good. It seemed to corner better than my 414m2 right away. I love the suspension gemotry, it seems alot of testing went into it. Basically I love the car, i can really get it to do whatever i want, as far as passing or sliding the ass around to square off a tight corner...
But, i dont need two delrin diffs... This one was setup to run outside with the diff seals, which work really good. It would be fine to run indoors also, as it keeps the diff smooth alot longer. It really helps with out of the hole acceleration, as it dramitcally reduces rotating mass. SO who needs one??

later
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Old 02-14-2003, 02:18 PM   #375
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first off: http://www.miwahobby.co.jp/atlasa/ja...gkong2001.html

check that out for the mods on the car. Altavista bablefish does an adequate job of translating http://world.altavista.com/

Also on the stapping tape-- I used to use the brace andd then strap that down with tape. (foam is brutal but fun!)

You prolly could just go the length of the pack if you wanted to too.
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