Atlas YM34 Thread
01-26-2003, 06:15 PM
#316
Atlas Springs
Does anybody know of another manufacturer's springs that will fit atlas shocks? Xray springs are the correct diameter but too long.
01-26-2003, 08:13 PM
#317
Registered User
johna; i use losi springs. the pink one is perfect for the rear.
it is less stiffer than the blue atlas.
it is less stiffer than the blue atlas.
01-26-2003, 11:32 PM
#318
overgear
Thanks for the info. I was looking for something stiffer than the atlas blues I'm sure Losi do some, I'll check it out.
Thanks for the info. I was looking for something stiffer than the atlas blues I'm sure Losi do some, I'll check it out.
01-27-2003, 01:36 AM
#319
trinity congos fit awesome and are stiff as he**. yoks fit as well and are very short. you'll have to go with the mr4gt springs as they are stiffer than the electric mr4 springs. kyoshos fit as well, but are fairly soft, even the hardest set.
01-30-2003, 06:02 PM
#320
Seaball, thanks for the info. Here's another question.
When the steering is at, or approaching full lock there is a lot of play on the inside wheel, so much so that you can see it moving when you corner hard. I read in an earlier thread that puting O rings in the outdrives would cure this but I've tried this and that isn't where the play is. Any ideas??
Other than that the car is great, really happy with it.
When the steering is at, or approaching full lock there is a lot of play on the inside wheel, so much so that you can see it moving when you corner hard. I read in an earlier thread that puting O rings in the outdrives would cure this but I've tried this and that isn't where the play is. Any ideas??
Other than that the car is great, really happy with it.
01-30-2003, 09:00 PM
#321
john - are you running the balls in the forward hole in the hub? this causes the steering to be quicker, but makes the angle that the tierod makes with the line through the ball and king pin very obtuse. the link is not controlling the hub because it is at nearly the same angle...wanting to fold in at any time. try going to the outer steering hole on the hub and make sure you are using the hole out front by itself on the bellcrank.
this should help. really i rarely need to go full lock to make the turns on my cars. i usually set my epa's and bring the dual rate down between 80 and 90 depending on car/track geometry. i noticed that it's usually pushing if i need to go 100% on throw. tends to scrub speed in turns if i need the wheels at that extreme of an angle. this means i have other problems in my setup.
alot of ackermann causes a car to push when turning form apex on out. this car has an adjustable ackermann effect. a way to maximize front end grip with this is to minimize the ackermann effect. set the drag link (middle) using the outer holes on the bellcrank. keep the bellcranks parallel when setup, but use the outer holes for the drag. that should get you closer to parallel steering. very popular these days. and you'll not need as much throw to get through.
hope these options help.
this should help. really i rarely need to go full lock to make the turns on my cars. i usually set my epa's and bring the dual rate down between 80 and 90 depending on car/track geometry. i noticed that it's usually pushing if i need to go 100% on throw. tends to scrub speed in turns if i need the wheels at that extreme of an angle. this means i have other problems in my setup.
alot of ackermann causes a car to push when turning form apex on out. this car has an adjustable ackermann effect. a way to maximize front end grip with this is to minimize the ackermann effect. set the drag link (middle) using the outer holes on the bellcrank. keep the bellcranks parallel when setup, but use the outer holes for the drag. that should get you closer to parallel steering. very popular these days. and you'll not need as much throw to get through.
hope these options help.
01-30-2003, 10:07 PM
#322
Seaball, Once again thanks for the tips I'll give this a try at the weekend. You sound like you know the car pretty well, I've only had mine a few weeks but so far don't have too many complaints.
Any other set-up tips you might have would be appreciated. I run outside on ashphalt, medium grip on quite a large track but with a tight infield.
Any other set-up tips you might have would be appreciated. I run outside on ashphalt, medium grip on quite a large track but with a tight infield.
01-30-2003, 11:47 PM
#323
i know the car well from scrutinizing pictures from all the times i came close to buying one. including integy's tempting ebay deal. finally, robk offered me his type t and his v3 at an unbeatable price. so here i am. believe it or not...i've never run it. i got it a few weeks back and it's in pieces.
the stuff i said applies to all cars. for your track, it sounds like you'll want to run as little toe in or out as possible to get the most out of the straights and high speed sweepers. and on tracks like that (and all tracks) cornerspeed is critical. if you gear high you'll not want to scrub valuable speed in the infield by driving a car that pushes. i'll be rebuilding the type t soon. i just finished up a corally c4.1 with some custom mods. infact, one of them was a steering mod that will give the car more parallel steering! i hope to run the type t in two weeks on our ozite track. my rclab is pretty dialed, so i'm now venturing into other vehicles. the plan was to run that atlas outdoors this summer, but seems like all the competition goes nitro outdoors.
some things that i've noticed about the type t.
- one complete steel diff weighs more than both of my rclab diffs.
get those delrin outdrives now!!! hehe just ca the rings to them and you'll not have a problem melting them. look for other manufactures though...integy is raping us at $25 a pop. i'll post any other compatabilities if and when i find them.
- layshaft/pullies are heavy as well.
i'm a big fan of plastic in the drivetrain. rotational weight is twice the problem that translational weight is. i don't have a solution here yet.
- too much aluminum
i will bore out the rear bulkhead/motor mount with a drill press before i assemble it. there's a ton of material that doesn't need to be there. maybe lose some of the standoffs that tie both sides together as well. take a look at a corally or xray rear. it's like a web of minimal material. true beauty.
most of my issues are wieght related. that's been my thing lately. here for carpet our minimum is 50oz or 1420g. almost nobody gets that low. but that won't stop me from trying. and rotational weight is the essence of accelleration.
well, i guess i've said my peace. sorry i won't have any comments on the setup until i assemble mine and put it to the test. heck, even then i won't know what to do.
later,
chris.
the stuff i said applies to all cars. for your track, it sounds like you'll want to run as little toe in or out as possible to get the most out of the straights and high speed sweepers. and on tracks like that (and all tracks) cornerspeed is critical. if you gear high you'll not want to scrub valuable speed in the infield by driving a car that pushes. i'll be rebuilding the type t soon. i just finished up a corally c4.1 with some custom mods. infact, one of them was a steering mod that will give the car more parallel steering! i hope to run the type t in two weeks on our ozite track. my rclab is pretty dialed, so i'm now venturing into other vehicles. the plan was to run that atlas outdoors this summer, but seems like all the competition goes nitro outdoors.
some things that i've noticed about the type t.
- one complete steel diff weighs more than both of my rclab diffs.
get those delrin outdrives now!!! hehe just ca the rings to them and you'll not have a problem melting them. look for other manufactures though...integy is raping us at $25 a pop. i'll post any other compatabilities if and when i find them.
- layshaft/pullies are heavy as well.
i'm a big fan of plastic in the drivetrain. rotational weight is twice the problem that translational weight is. i don't have a solution here yet.
- too much aluminum
i will bore out the rear bulkhead/motor mount with a drill press before i assemble it. there's a ton of material that doesn't need to be there. maybe lose some of the standoffs that tie both sides together as well. take a look at a corally or xray rear. it's like a web of minimal material. true beauty.
most of my issues are wieght related. that's been my thing lately. here for carpet our minimum is 50oz or 1420g. almost nobody gets that low. but that won't stop me from trying. and rotational weight is the essence of accelleration.
well, i guess i've said my peace. sorry i won't have any comments on the setup until i assemble mine and put it to the test. heck, even then i won't know what to do.
later,
chris.
01-31-2003, 04:41 PM
#325
Tech Adept
Not too recently i switched to a 34T from a 414m2, and so far i have found it to be a faster chassis. Im running it stock on a medium sized ozite track.
I do somewhat miss being able to adjust the height and angle of the arms, but i have found the atlas suspension geometry to very comprehensive.
I have also found the drivetrain to be quite a bit more free than the 414. I think this is due to the alum hubs and the perfect size belt.
As far as weight. The running weight with a transponder is 53oz or 3.58lbs and with only TI tierods it is 3.60lbs which is very good. I have been going through it with some TI screws. I also have the oneway diff with the OS 6mm outdrives, and I do not have the delrin diff installed.
I like to have the suspension setup with a stiff rear end and soft front end for maximum on power steering, and the chassis seems to respond very well to this.
Ive owned large number of different chassis, and I so far like this one the best.
I do somewhat miss being able to adjust the height and angle of the arms, but i have found the atlas suspension geometry to very comprehensive.
I have also found the drivetrain to be quite a bit more free than the 414. I think this is due to the alum hubs and the perfect size belt.
As far as weight. The running weight with a transponder is 53oz or 3.58lbs and with only TI tierods it is 3.60lbs which is very good. I have been going through it with some TI screws. I also have the oneway diff with the OS 6mm outdrives, and I do not have the delrin diff installed.
I like to have the suspension setup with a stiff rear end and soft front end for maximum on power steering, and the chassis seems to respond very well to this.
Ive owned large number of different chassis, and I so far like this one the best.
01-31-2003, 05:42 PM
#326
Tech Adept
i recently put in a pretty good sized order to integy. I was able to get some basic replacement parts, but was unable to get some new trick parts like alum dogbones or alum swaybar holders.
I did get a custom cut transponder holder.
Does anybody know if the Team low friction belts are different than what comes stock?
Something else i would like to try are the alum steering bellcranks.
I did get a custom cut transponder holder.
Does anybody know if the Team low friction belts are different than what comes stock?
Something else i would like to try are the alum steering bellcranks.
02-01-2003, 11:36 AM
#327
Tech Adept
do you cut the losi springs?
they're too long...
they're too long...
02-01-2003, 01:15 PM
#328
Delrin outdrives
Just tried some TA04 delrin outdrives and they fit perfectly if you use the Atlas diff rings. The tamiya outdrives have hard plastic mouldings to fit the diff rings to so no superglue is required.
02-01-2003, 02:46 PM
#329
Tech Adept
the atlas delrin outdrives are really nice. The outdrive halfs are connected together on the outer edge so there is no need for alum rings.
02-01-2003, 02:47 PM
#330
Tech Adept
are the TA04 outdrives the two piece design?
those can be troublesome, those of us with 414s would know...
those can be troublesome, those of us with 414s would know...