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Old 03-19-2002, 01:54 AM   #181
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Originally posted by DHMOTORSPORTS
RobK, Looks good man, I did get to see the new T this past weekend. The car looks great and smooth. I seen the front end is still sloppy like the old car. Other than that ,which is an EASY fix,it looks good. I'm still wanting to get one but don't know if I can Aford to this late into the season...
It one of the Best R/C car man. You should have one.
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Old 03-21-2002, 11:52 AM   #182
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I ran the car with te lowered roll centers, everything was pretty good. The car got into the corner very well, but seemed held up in the middle. One of my buddies suggested lowering the front mount (I raised both 2 mm). I'm going to lower the front back down 1 mm, for an overall gain of 1mm. I suspected that the front should be a bit lower than the rear (you usually need a bit of rake in the relative heights of the front and rear RCs), but I wanted to just see what would happen. I gonna try some rubber tire stuff tonight, maybe I'll get some more results.
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Old 03-21-2002, 11:57 AM   #183
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RobK.Where you race at tonight on rubbers?? I'm trying to plan a date on when we are going back to AJ's..Hopefully pretty soon,like within 2 weeks or so..
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Old 03-21-2002, 03:51 PM   #184
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Hey DH
I am going to practice at a new place called JZ's in South Holland IL. It's close to 57, 80/94 and 294. It's a nice track, slightly larger than 80x40. Saturday I'm going to race at Venture, since I can't race Friday at JZ's. The biggest nights there are Friday and Sunday.
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Old 03-21-2002, 07:26 PM   #185
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Still cannot download the stepup in HK can any kind soul mail to me [email protected]
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Old 03-23-2002, 09:13 AM   #186
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Anyone ready to sell there YM-34 T yet??lol.. Just thought I'd ask. You know poor boy trying to save a few $$$..hehe
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Old 03-24-2002, 12:16 AM   #187
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Got back from racing with a really good tip. My car was pretty good but had a mid corner push that i really couldn't get rid of. A friend of mine said to try mounting the front camber link on the kingpin hole of the caster block.

As soon as he said this I remembered I had previously seen this on the RC lab website as a way to get more mid corner steering on their car. I managed to get it on the car just before my 3rd qualifier. I suddenly had enough steering to get thru a low speed chicane on the track way quicker.

I dropped .1 sec (11.3) off my best lap time (11.4). Before the main I had some time to get the front end really squared away, dropping the inside position down a hole. I went .2 sec (11.2) faster than before I made any changes, and did 11.3 multiple times. This was also with a battery that was not nearly as good as the one from the 3rd qual, a pack from a friend who drives for SMC.

Essentially, the car has more mid corner steering, and transitions better from on power to off power steering. It made the car easier to drive, and there was less to compromise in setting up the car.

Basically I used some traxxas captured ball ends, and did some dremeling. I'll post pictures tomorrow.
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Old 03-25-2002, 07:56 PM   #188
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still no pics??
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Old 03-25-2002, 09:19 PM   #189
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hey fellas, what a nice car. i've recently gained interest in the atlas car since the new lower cg design. so nice. i guess my point is...if anyone's looking to unload one...let me know at

[email protected]

sorry to interrupt your flow. maybe, though, it'll help someone. yeah, me!
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Old 03-25-2002, 09:46 PM   #190
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Hi all,

I just wonder how much did you guys pay for your YM34T?? Is the car only ava. through integy?

Was T just out this year? The more I look at the car, the more I want one... Geeze... just so pretty... and it looks very strong too.
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Old 03-26-2002, 12:24 AM   #191
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Ok here we go. Basically I bought a package of Traxxas captured ball ends. Due to tire clearance issues, I removed the "crown" from the top and bottom of the ball. You get a ball instead of a ball with ridges top and bottom. A small portion of the "tophat" sleeve for the kingpin screws protrudes from the upright, giving a bit of clearance so the link pivots.

I also removed some material from the edges of the plastic part of the ball end, so they would not interfere with the tire, just from the top side. The bottom side of the plastic has to have material removed to clear the uprights, sort of at an angle.

As for the up rights themselves, I remove the mounting area for the link so there is plenty of clearance for the link.

The top kingpin screw needs to be flattened with a dremel equipped with a cutoff wheel. To run the car with the steering hub in the lowered position, I used a buttonhead allen screw, and not only slightly flattened it, but removed much of the head of the screw. This only works with rubber tires, as the rim for foams is too wide and rubs on the screw. I think I have a fix for this, but i have to get some parts to test it before I let everybody know.

I ran the car on rubber the first night, and foams Sunday night. Sunday I tried the hub in the middle position, 1 spacer on top and bottom. I think positioning the hub this way makes the car lose some of its steering, since I had to slow down to get the car to roll thru the corner how I liked. It seemed more like it was with the link in the stock position. Unfortunatly, I couldn't fit foams on with the hub lowered due to the clearance issue mentioned above. I will let you know how things go when I get that fixed. I know with rubber tires i could turn under people like crazy especially out of the turn.
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Old 03-26-2002, 12:24 AM   #192
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more
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Old 03-26-2002, 12:29 AM   #193
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TRF- The car is $289 on www.integy.com if i remember right. A guy at my track who was looking at one also mentioned that Steve from www.speedtechrc.com said he could get the car since he deals w/integy. Contact him for a price.


Now, on with the pictures
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Old 03-26-2002, 12:31 AM   #194
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Old 03-26-2002, 03:24 PM   #195
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I solved my tire clearance dilemma. I JB welded the ball onto a long 3mm grub screw that comes with the kit. It's part of the swaybar set. I used it since you can use normal 4-40 hardware on the swaybars, and the 3mm scew will fit the steering hubs. All you do is put the screw on the ball with the hex head end at the top. Just roll a little jb weld onto the top of the screw and insert. Everything clears with foams, 24mm rubber rims should have plently of room.
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