Hey Rob, want to go up to Venture Monday for practice? Let me know I will check the thread in the morning.-Dave Arnold

Hey RobK, Does the new T still come with the front oneway diff? All these guys are trying to talk me into the X-RAY but I'm leaning towards the new T. And are the front knuckles aluminum or plastic like the stock V3? What about kick up? Do you still put the washers under the arm mounts? One last question...I think....Rear toe, looks like the rear toe is only set with the rear hubs now right? So nomore fine tuning that part..
Hey do you guys ever race at AJ's in Dekalb? we go the once in a while. I'm pretty sure we are going back this coming sunday. :D

DH-
Both the oneway diff and layshaft pulley are in the box.
Front knuckles and rear hubs are aluminum. The front hub is the "racing" type, you can space it up or down to change grip/rollcenter. This part made the old car way better. The kick up is built in at the front mounts. There is antisquat and 1/2 degree per side toe built into the rear mounts. The rear hubs are 2 deg. per side.

As far as the Xray it's not a bad car at all. However, I know some team drivers and yes they have several new parts on their cars to change suspension geometry. I know some of the parts are available, some may not be because they are so new. Just remember that you may need more stuff than what comes in the box for your application. The only extra stuff I needed for this car (type t) was springs. Oh and I put Xpress caster rods on my car just to make me feel better about front end stiffness, whether it needed it or not :D And put it this way, so far, this car has felt every bit as good as my TC3 felt at its best. And i was very pleased with that car.

I haven't raced at Aj's for a long time. How many guys do they get up there? Sunday racing is getting scarce around here as Leisure has gone dirt.

AJ said usually 35 cars average. But the 2 weekends we have been there it was kinda few and far between.. The NOVAK race was going on and then the Tamiya race this past weekend. So we will see how many are there the next time we go. I'm really thinking bout trying some foams on the car this weekend. That race in Indy is lookin real good. If I can talk someone from home to go with me. I really don't want to go and look stupid all alone you know..

Yeah- I'm trying to get Rob to go since it will be an inexpensive race to go to for us by the standards of what we normally spend to go. I may have to call up Rick Worth or talk to Kevin Kane if Rob won't go so that I have a place to bunk. Come on Rob, you gotta go. You KNOW you want to run that new car in a race...Robk,Robk,Robk, hehehe.-Dave

Oh BTW, I would love to see AJ and Venture hook up in a series race with 12th mod/stock at 8min and TC Foam mod/stock at 5min and TC Rubber for those poor saps that want to run it. hehehe I think each race would have close to 100 people. If you see/talk to AJ would you please ask him about doing it, tell Dave Arnold was just wondering if we could get this going starting in Sept. Thanks

Dave dave dave Mr off topic :D We'll see ya Thursday.

DH-35 cars is pretty good. Are you going up there for sure?
One thing I will say about the old car, it can be really fast when it's right. If you're on rubber tires definitely try springs 18 lbs and down. I was at AE blue when I got the new car, but I think silver (16lb?) or green(13 lb?) would have been better. Needs swaybars though. Props to you if you can make a good one for the front end though. My biggest problem was probably the fact that i spaced out the front end for some deluded reason. The car didn't turn in. Wider front end=less turn in, it's stated in the Xray book. Duh. Kept playing with the car to get more turn in, but didn't remove the wheel spacers. Oh well.

Oh by the way, I got the Japanese driver's setup sheets from the Miwahobby site. I also translated some of the comments/tips from the drivers. If anyone wants them I can send em out email style. just pesonal message me.

Here's a motor/gear chart someone was lookin for:

I talked to rick w last night we are funna hook up in bloominton sunday to race. I'm still kicken it around for Indy. I know if I don't go get my A$$ kicked I'll go watch the mains on sunday. As far as a place to stay I got a friend that hangs out in ALL the KEWL NUDIE bars that lives overthere..lol My Setups for foams are scarce man, I need all the foam time I can get between now an Indy if I'm gonna go.
As for AJ's the run on rubber. PITS is what they like I personally Like Sorex. Third in the A at AJ's isnt too bad considering 2 plow discs,shiney side DOWN..twice...hehe..

Sometime I'd like to finger that new ATLAS too see what it looks like in person if we can carch up too each other..

But for now its time to go KICK some ASSociated ...Laters.

Foam:
4WD, Rear shocks as far out on arm & tower as you can get , fronts posibly 1-2 holes in on tower. If you have the racing front knuckle, all the way down (spacers on top) . Front camber link on the bulkhead, rear up and in. 7* caster. AE yellow, Purple congo or Integy green from c22 set, fr and rear. (just try to find a 35lb spring ) 1* camber, f and r. 60 - 70 wt oil f and r, possibly 10 wt lighter front. The suspension mount spacers i 'm not sure on, but run the rear about 1mm higher than front. You might want to run the suspension blocks on the chassis to start, this would be like the new car. My type t is dial on foams, but I do know the losi car is supposed to be better on foam with a high roll center (or raised suspension mounts). You may want to minimize kickup, as it will help the car to be smoother going into the corner. Foams give so much steering, you can give up some steering going in. Kickup in the rear helps the car rotate, add to taste. You can also cut out the front bumper so the ff block will lay flat. Let me know if you have ???s

Other than the track condition( VERY RUFF,BUMPY). The car felt good. I tried 80 wt oil all around with the green fnt, yellow rear. Towoards the end of the run the car wanted to bicycle on the 180 turns. Like it had too much traction.I had the roll center pretty high on the car. From what I gather your saying run it low.I had the Knuckle in the middle, shims on each side of it. I was thinking mabe some 90 or 100 wt oil in front to help get rid of some traction. The bad thing is I dont have nowhere to go test now before INDY. Are you going to Indy RobK? I'm Trying to talk a friend into going but he can't get friday off so we would miss the first round. So who know we will see what happens I guess..

Unfortunately i have a paint job lined up for W Th F so it looks like i wont be going.

As far as the car goes, with the knuckle in the middle, it is the same as stock. Definitely lower it.

the one thing is to remember that you can get the car so stiff it wants to "hinge" over on the wheels. This is where the roll center some into play, as well as CG. You're kinda stuck on CG, and i think that is what really helps the Type T, the weight is way lower.
But you do have a lot of room with the roll center. Basically, the higher the inner mount the more mid corner traction. That sounds great, but the higher roll center causes the car to "jack itself up", accentuating any tendecy to flip. If the roll center is too high, you can think of it as the force moving at like a 45* angle upwards across the chassis. Now, that is not really true, but it more vivdly illustrates what i am saying. where if you have the lower roll center, its like a force moving horizontally across the chassis, making it slide. Once again, not totally true, but It gets you thinking how the forces act.

That being said, i do know the Losi guys run their cars in the "high" roll center (stock) positions for foam. Even if that is the case, the long length of the Atlas' arms may affect how you have to set the car. I'm not sure how high you have your mounts but I think much beyond 2mm would be a lot. i know Arthur was recommending like 5mm in the rear for the old car (ym34v3) but that was with the stock front hub. I think things work better with the racing hub spaced down (spacers on top), and the rear mounts with minimal spacers underneath. If anything I would say run the camber links as long and as high up as you can. Foams like minimal camber change. Then try to tune the spacers under the mounts to get the roll center, with the rear being slightly higher than the front. You can tune rollcenter with the links but since you have the option go with the mounts.

Also, do you have droop screws drilled into the arms? The excessive traction from foam make it important to keep the car from having excessive down travel. This can also be part of your problem. i think having like 1-2mm droop in front and like 2-3 in back is a good place to start.

The easiest way to measure is to set the car at ride, lift it until the tires are about to lift off the ground, and then stick a ride height guage in there. The reading you get, minus ride height is droop. Ex. 7mm - 4mm ride ht. = 3mm droop. You could then take an AE gauge once you found the right droop to see how it corresponds, to make it easier next time. Like 4 on the AE thing = 3mm droop or whatever the case.

Basically, if you don't have a lot of practice, just run the rear blocks with like 1mm spacer under them, the fronts flat on the chassis, stand the rear shock up and as far out on the arm as you can. Run the front in the outer or 2nd hole in. Get whatever swaybars you can on the car.

If you have a more complete setup from you car that might help me help you more.

Please excuse the ridiculous length of this post

here's a setup from 2tired2race for the v3, its old but it's something to go on.

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Member posted 01-30-2001 06:52 PM
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I have taken my setup and have incorporated some of RobK's and Arthurs and have come up with a setup that delivers!
Not only does it work but I broke the track record in my first qualifier than broke my own again in the second qulifier and the third I was on a faster pace than the two previous only to have lap traffic take me out! In the main I took 2nd place, thats against an entire club full of TC3's!!
Thanks to guys like Robk and Arthur who are willing to take the time to post there setups! I wanted to wait untill I had something that worked before giving bad advise!
Heres my setup:
FRONT REAR

OIL- 60 60
PISTONS- HPI #2 HPI #2
SHAFTS- MIP HPI RS4 GOLDS MIP HPI RS4 GOLDS
SPRINGS- C22 YELLOW C22 ORANGE
LENGTH- 64.5mm 66.5mm
SHOCK
POSITION-TOWER-OUTER ARM-OUTER TOWER-OUTER ARM-MIDDLE RIDE HIGHT- 3.5mm 3.5mm
CASTER- 7* N/A
CAMBER
LOCATION-TOWER-LOWER OUTER TOWER-LOWER INNER HUB-OUTER
CAMBER- .5* 1.5*
TOE-IN- 0* 1.6*
KICKUP/
ANTI-SQUAT-FF-2mm added FR-STOCK RF-3mm added RR-STOCK
SWAYBAR- N/A .062
4WD/ONEWAY- 4WD 4WD
TIRES-24mm JACO PURPLE-ORANGE TRUED 56mm 24mm JACO PURPLES TRUED 56mm
MOTOR- MATRIX 7.5 PRO STOCK
GEAR- 120/46
BATTERIES- INTEGY 2400'S
BODY- PROLINE VAUXHAUL

I feel that I might use C22 Yellows on all four corners, still a little bodyroll in the rear! The car turns in hard and fast and exits straight and like a bullet!

free play in the car
 

due to upper front arm support is not strong, there is a lot of vibration during turning. Is there anyway to solve this problem?

AO
If you're talking about the front caster blocks, you can get a set of Xpress caster rods. They run from the camber link to the upper deck. I ran mine to the holes where you can mount the antenna on the upper deck. The steering post holes are also an option. Works great.