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Old 01-08-2008, 01:22 PM   #16
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My first "team" speedo was a silver plated wiper arm on a reversed parma resistor, might even have been before your time Rick. My first delta protoype speedo was in around 83.
They have newer speedos than this? I guess I have been out of the loop.
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Old 01-08-2008, 01:23 PM   #17
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interesting concept, might kill the mild stuff though...
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Old 01-08-2008, 01:28 PM   #18
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This thread lacks focus

Let me help by saying..........rubber tires only
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Old 01-08-2008, 01:31 PM   #19
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This thread lacks focus

Let me help by saying..........rubber tires only
It does eliminate the big power.
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Old 01-08-2008, 01:42 PM   #20
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From what ive seen overgearing a brushless regardless of timing does not generate additional speed but just builds up temp........

My testing was done with 10.5 novak and 13.5 novak with sintered magnets.... I pretty much just started gearing up and when my lap times were no longer getting faster but just generated more heat I simply geared one tooth down. Maybe that was all my batts could pull and team packs would totally be a different story.....
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Old 01-08-2008, 01:47 PM   #21
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....The other revolutionary idea that I have proposed in the past is to eliminate motor motor classifications completely.

Let any one use any motor, but divide the classes by voltage. So you will have 3-cell (it will work), 4-cell, 5-cell, 7.4V LiPo Enduro, all using the same motors. With BL, we are all using the same motors anyway (specs, price, features), so why not?

Just a thought.
Very Interesting Concept...
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Old 01-08-2008, 01:51 PM   #22
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Myself, and quite a few other guys have found that brand new rotors run better.

One guy went thru 5 on the weekend.

Maybe handout rotors are the answer.
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Old 01-08-2008, 02:07 PM   #23
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Seems that me and the Novak guys have differing issues, our magnet runs better after it falls off, theirs seems better right away. We both had melting issues, and are looking for the foolproof answer. but I guess I have the same mentality as most racers, keep going up in gear as long as it goes faster, until something breaks that is.
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Old 01-08-2008, 02:09 PM   #24
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Seems that me and the Novak guys have differing issues, our magnet runs better after it falls off, theirs seems better right away. We both had melting issues, and are looking for the foolproof answer. but I guess I have the same mentality as most racers, keep going up in gear as long as it goes faster, until something breaks that is.

Just wondering if you were temping the motors and if you did what was the highest reading before melt down?
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Old 01-08-2008, 02:52 PM   #25
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With all these threads being thrown around concerning brushless and so on, I certainly hope that the general population is what is considered in the final/initial rulings. While we all strive to be professional drivers, the reality is that we all for the most part remain at the club level and may attend a handful of "major" races in our careers.

Personally, as a Sunday driver (aka Club Racer), I love the simplicity of Brushless/LIPO....
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Old 01-08-2008, 03:01 PM   #26
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Sounds like time for some cryogenic treated rotors and coils. Your going to like that even more. (serious)

I just can't get the picture of Dieter and Howart standing there in speedos, ooops I mean speed controls. LMAO (not serious, just couldn't resist)
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Old 01-08-2008, 03:12 PM   #27
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Jim,

Based on my own experience with 13.5's, and what I have gleaned from the comments made by others (with lower winds), it seems like the Feigao-based motors are down a bit on power when compared with equal winds against Novak and LRP. Do you find this to be true, and if so, do you have any guess as to why? From my own poking around, it seems like the stator stack is shorter, and the ID of the stator is larger, which is perhaps a contributing factor?

In mod, this doesn't seem to matter much, because you can grab a motor of a lower wind. And, we've seen Novak and LRP release motors that are intentionally less powerful, or at least powerful in a different way to improve the driving characteristics. For example, Novak's "Lite" series and the LRP 4.0. This is a nice bit of flexibility, but where does it leave us with spec motors like the 13.5 and 10.5? Are we going to find ourselves in a situation where raw power is the thing that matters most, and drivability will be sacrificed as a result? Will we see situations where a different stator is required for spec motors vs. mod, and will motor companies even be willing to do that? Presumably, there could be an increased cost for the tooling of such things.

I apologize for my speculation, and if I'm wrong about anything in this post. I'm trying to comprehend the many facets of brushless motor design and how it's applied to racing, but have reached the very end of my current level of understanding.
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Old 01-08-2008, 03:16 PM   #28
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Francis. Dumas ran 170 every time with no issues, so most. I had some over 200 that melted the wire into the plastic insulator, stunk but still ran. We had guys with the same gearing that were 30 degrees different, mostly due to car setup or driving style...Johnny, cryo..maybe, but me and Rick would be damn sexy in those.
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Old 01-08-2008, 03:20 PM   #29
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Rick is right. Voltage/power source is the only real way to make things equal. BL motors are a big step in the right direction timing adjustment is not something that will be accessible by regular racers and I am sure it wouldn't be too hard to make a simple apparatus that could be connected to the motor poles and tell someone at tech if the timing is in or out of spec.
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Old 01-08-2008, 03:21 PM   #30
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Syndrome, you're pretty much correct on every point. We seem to be able to gear high and still have bottom, but it hurt us with heat and we slowed toward the end. Wire sizes are different between them as well, but the air gap and magnet strength are also factors.
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