nexxus

iTrader: (315)

So essentially it's a couple of turnbuckles being used to stiffen up the front, but how does that affect belt tension?

fastbynature

iTrader: (21)

it doesn't.

it prevents the chassis moving around, thus reducing the amount of belt skipping

gashuffer

iTrader: (48)

So where do you mount the shocks? Leaving them off Well that's not a good idea...

fastbynature

iTrader: (21)

obviously conventional front suspension, kit comes with all parts to do this too.

gashuffer

iTrader: (48)

Well then that makes sense....

inpuressa

iTrader: (10)

it does. just a fraction of a turn, and the belt tension changes. you can adjust it to the point just where it stops belt skipping. this will have to do until the cf reinforced or aftermarket chassis comes out.

Johnn27

iTrader: (89)

what size turnbuckles are u using and what is the overall length in millimeters with the tie rod ends?

inpuressa

iTrader: (10)

i used the extra 42mm alum turnbuckle leftover from using the ti one. the ball ends are from the db-01/501x.

tamiya, please just release the cf reinforced parts already.

rc_square24

iTrader: (9)

I know, it's just seemingly so easy for them to do.

DA_cookie_monst

iTrader: (1)

Good idea, but surely they are there to make the chassis rigid and not for tensioning the belt, as soon as you to that, you will alter the front suspension geometry by either lifting the front up or pushing it down..... Lock it in position, flat, with the turnbuckles (had to do that with the 3Racing chassis on the TA05) and then adjust belt tension accordingly!

cherry2blost

iTrader: (1)

Having been the proud owner of numerous HPI Pro 3's over the years, including one of the first into the UK, I always found the chassis to have to much longitudinal flex, basically with the graphite battery bar the belts were to tight and there was no way to relieve it. We constructed a bracing bar to run from front to rear with 4mm (2mm thickness) carbon fibre Rod with liquid metal in the end capturing some threaded rod to which we attached plastic ball cups (the open type. This allowed us to adjust very slightly the tension on the belts, but another unforeseen benefit was the complete lack of longitudinal flex. The Pro 3 was designed to flex and the sideways flex was always useful on cold asphalt tracks, by using a single rod you cut out the longitudinal flex but keep the lateral flex that is designed into the car.

Step forward 12 years or so and I now have the TA06, took one look at the way the font box section was flexing when giving minimal pressure to the belt and have decided to do the same again.

take a look at the pic and you will notice that I have used the front Shock mount stay to attach a ball end, and have drilled the read shock tower to accept another ball end, once the rod turns up from the place I have ordered it from will repeat the Pro 3 trick and do away with the longitudinal flex while keeping the lateral flex built into the car. Using ball ends allows a tiny bit of 'give' so that the chassis is not rigid in an accident also the rod seems to transfer a lot of crash energy to the rear shock stay so it may even protect the chassis somewhat.

Will post a pic of the completed job once it's finished, but I have one question, could someone post up the build /modification for the placement of the servo on the Right hand side of the chassis, I have placed the servo to the rear of the car on the right to check clearances etc. and intend to use a long Pro 3 steering linkage for the task as this shallows down the angle for the servo.

amateur888

driftmission.com/tech-racing-ta-06-carbon-chassis-set/ (copy paste, i'm not allowed to post links yet)

this is one option (soon)

grinta

Just measured widths at 182 MM,with 0 offset wheels and 4 mm thick hexes.

To achieve 190 mm, I surely should change for 6 mm hexes, but which toe blocks do I have to buy ???

Any help appreciated here !

nexxus

iTrader: (315)

Tried my TA06 out for the first time yesterday, and I nearly threw it at a wall!

Warm up: Outer Pulley from large belt came off, spent 15 mins combing the track to find it.

1st Qual: Rear Hub carrier top 'bolt on part' came off.

2nd Qual: Inner Pulley on small belt to front diff came off, unable to locate parts on track, so rest of the day was 2wding it. The 2.5mm E-Clips are a joke, will change to 2mm E Clips but seriously, can't we have a Pulley Unit integrated or something?

1st Main: Car was a bloody handful on 2wd, And then the other Rear Hub Carrier top bit came off. FFS. Going to have to glue these! Put back together and found this 'high torque' steering servo slips, A LOT! Servo is a Futaba S9551

...........gave up and went home, a 2wd TA06 is near on undriveable. Wish I'd bought the trusty TA05 along just in case.

Anyone else have probs similar to the above?

Hurricane Sonic

sorry to hear that but that all seems to be problems on building up...

mine using a 5.5T and ran for 2 days, only need to replace rear gear diff...

try shimming and remove space on the pulley holder(front 18T)