SC8E

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys I just received a used TA06 and I just did a teardown of the car to see what's what.

Some of the ballcups are stiff on their balls, should I replace them with stock cups or is there some aftermarket I should look into?

Edit: the play on spur/pulley shaft: the shaft moves in and out of the gearbox by approx 2mm. Is this per spec or should I move to eliminate this?

VooDooPH

iTrader: (18)

if racing it, personally, i prefer the standard set-up. its easier to tune for me as i don't need to re-learn how to set-up the shock position. can't use the low-nose shells though (its ok with me since i don't really like how the low-nose shells handle).



ball cups are expendables and should be replaced regularly... since the kit came in 2nd hand, suggest you replace them. never heard of ballcups going tight though... maybe either the ball studs or the ball cups are wrong?

yes, you can shim the spur shaft in the gearbox to minimize side-to-side play. also check if the bearing holding the shaft is worn out... might need to be replaced too.

hths.

SC8E

iTrader: (1)

Good, thanks. I'm not sure why some are stiff either, but both parts are correct; blue aluminum 5mm connectors and the grey low friction 5mm ball ends.

addicted2blue

Today was the second belgian tamiyacup race of the season (still 8 races to do) and once again the car handled great and i (in the GT2 heat with a 16T sensorless brushless motor) was at the end of the final race 5 seconds slower then the fastest guy of the euro GT heat (GT1 with 12T sensorless brushless motor and carbon chassis type cars). They had a total of 38 laps in 7m05s and i had 38 laps in 7m10s.
Circuit was small, very narrow (only 2m width) and technical.

I love it when you can show with a less expensive chassis and slower motor to what this chassis is capable of.
Perhaps it could be a challenge to me to drive this configuration (chassis/motor) in a faster heat to compare it directly with the faster cars with carbon chassis/motor.

Velineon

is the Ta06 better than the ta05 in drifting?

zaraz

iTrader: (38)

How do you remove the battery in the vbc chassis, and what is the best motor fan to put on this kit that fits the stiffners perfectly, I just ordered a ta06pro and was looking at getting a carbon chassis, I like the exotek, but the vbc comes complete, but just wondering about the battery removel on it, also can some one point me in the correct direction as to where to find some aluminum spacers for the shocks in the ifs setup, the long spacers from the ballend to the spring retainer, I see them on some kits but cannot find them anywhere, thanks

Airflow

iTrader: (13)

Hi, I want to upgrade my TA06's suspension blocks to aluminum ones.

Someone please provide me with the part numbers and quantities.
My goal is to replicate stock suspension blocks using aluminum blocks.

Thanks

DavidNERODease

I'm in the process of applying the Exotek conversion for my TA06 but have run into a couple issues.

1) The chassis holes for the front bulkheads are off a bit, had to file them just to get the screws in - no way you could use this chassis if the front bulkheads were aluminum.

2) After installing the upper deck, the centre belt tension is way too tight - we're talking guitar string twang here.

Did I get a dud or is there some magical fix? I can't believe such a popular chassis conversion is this far off spec (read useless).

Johnn27

iTrader: (89)

I ran the ta06 with the exotek chassis and having to make the holes bigger is normal but the tension belt problem makes me think you did something wrong???
do you have the pastic bulkheads in the correct holes. This is a mistake I make originally it is easy to get them confused.

808TXT1

iTrader: (6)

after reading all these pages...makes me want to get a TA06 pro with the exotek or any other aftermarket company that makes graphite chassis kit for it.

I just purchased an OFNA GTP2E, but the last 1/10 scale car I built and raced was the Losi TYPE R..lol!!!

Very tempting..

DavidNERODease

It is assembled correctly (I was hoping it somehow wasn't) I think I'll have to send this one back to the manufacture based on the front bulkhead holes alone - you could never assemble the kit if the TA06 had aluminum bulks. I read another post from someone mentioning the same problem with the bulkhead holes being off so it's not just my kit. The belt tensoin being the way it is just not raceable - the motor will overheat with that much increase in drag unless the FDR is sacrificed. The stock chassis produced a super smooth and free drivetrain. This is a major bummer because the overall design of the Exotek conversion is excellent.

redzone

iTrader: (4)

The tb03 ones are the correct upgrade parts

zaraz

iTrader: (38)

anyone have experiance with the tech racing type r chassis conversion, if so how is the battery held in, thanks

Airflow

iTrader: (13)

Hi, can I use ceramic grease or AE black grease as silicone-oil-substitute in my gear diffs?

If so, how much quantity do I put? Fully packed? Or just enough to coat the bevel gears?

Next question is will I have consistent diff action for a long time?

TIA

DavidNERODease

Just an update to the belt tension issue on the Exotek conversion... I decided to order a couple of longer belts from beltfrog.com. The stock belt is 151 teeth (453mm) and I assume 3mm pitch S3M. So I orderd Kevlar reinforced Neoprene S3M belts (153 and 156teeth). 6mm width was the narrowest width so I will have to split them but this should solve the problem.