Tamiya Ta06
#2146
If you're running mod/open class I'm thinking ~417.
If you want something straight forward to build with plenty of other people running the same car for setups etc then I'm thinking ~417.
Otherwise if you don't mind the small challenge of a plastic kit plus carbon chassis conversion then I'd recommend the TA06+Exotek chassis for sure.
The main reason: the central battery/motor and hence perfect lateral balance every time you hit the track
#2147
I'm really starting to like my TA06. I'm running the standard stand up shock. I can't seem to get my IFS setup right. Is changing spring rate the only way to stiffen or soften the suspension on IFS? I just can't seem to make the IFS handle like my standard stand up shock. How many mm are you guys spacing the inside camber link? The stock shims seems to give too much camber gain.
To adjust this you can of course go stiffer spring (I've gravitated towards HPI White instead of ~Pink).
But also you can adjust the shim spacers on the bell-crank.
-->If you remove shims from the push rod side and add shims to the shock side this will make a stiffer action - similar concept to standing-up or moving arm pivot point outwards for a 'normal' shock layout.
You might be able to see my setup in the pics I posted if they are clear enough, basically 0mm spacer on pushrod side of bell-crank and 3mm on the shock side. To make it stiffer.
Would also be keen to learn what others have tried/found works?
#2148
The IFS results in a softer spring rate at the front.
To adjust this you can of course go stiffer spring (I've gravitated towards HPI White instead of ~Pink).
But also you can adjust the shim spacers on the bell-crank.
-->If you remove shims from the push rod side and add shims to the shock side this will make a stiffer action - similar concept to standing-up or moving arm pivot point outwards for a 'normal' shock layout.
You might be able to see my setup in the pics I posted if they are clear enough, basically 0mm spacer on pushrod side of bell-crank and 3mm on the shock side. To make it stiffer.
Would also be keen to learn what others have tried/found works?
To adjust this you can of course go stiffer spring (I've gravitated towards HPI White instead of ~Pink).
But also you can adjust the shim spacers on the bell-crank.
-->If you remove shims from the push rod side and add shims to the shock side this will make a stiffer action - similar concept to standing-up or moving arm pivot point outwards for a 'normal' shock layout.
You might be able to see my setup in the pics I posted if they are clear enough, basically 0mm spacer on pushrod side of bell-crank and 3mm on the shock side. To make it stiffer.
Would also be keen to learn what others have tried/found works?
#2149
cookie, how is the exotek chassis for the ta06, for my tao5 ver 11 some of the holes were not really lined up and were tight, what about your kit, thanks
#2150
Tech Master
iTrader: (38)
If you're running mod/open class I'm thinking ~417.
If you want something straight forward to build with plenty of other people running the same car for setups etc then I'm thinking ~417.
Otherwise if you don't mind the small challenge of a plastic kit plus carbon chassis conversion then I'd recommend the TA06+Exotek chassis for sure.
The main reason: the central battery/motor and hence perfect lateral balance every time you hit the track
If you want something straight forward to build with plenty of other people running the same car for setups etc then I'm thinking ~417.
Otherwise if you don't mind the small challenge of a plastic kit plus carbon chassis conversion then I'd recommend the TA06+Exotek chassis for sure.
The main reason: the central battery/motor and hence perfect lateral balance every time you hit the track
and of course I need some of that awesome mesh wire!
#2151
#2152
Cookie how come you don't run the main drive belt tensioner?
I've nearly finished my servo/esc swap knocked off 90g just by shortening wires and losing the servo mounting plate. Just trying to figure out how to route the transponder and motor fan wires. Doing a wire mesh job too, will post a pic when it's done.
Also I'm only running 21.5 blinky, I run medium stabiliser arms and HPI silver springs all round. Whats the benefit of having stiffer springs? I though softing would equal more grip.
One more thing, I've running the fixed front axle, was originally running the diff but read that a locked one was quicker. Noticed you're running the front diff, should I switch back?
I've nearly finished my servo/esc swap knocked off 90g just by shortening wires and losing the servo mounting plate. Just trying to figure out how to route the transponder and motor fan wires. Doing a wire mesh job too, will post a pic when it's done.
Also I'm only running 21.5 blinky, I run medium stabiliser arms and HPI silver springs all round. Whats the benefit of having stiffer springs? I though softing would equal more grip.
One more thing, I've running the fixed front axle, was originally running the diff but read that a locked one was quicker. Noticed you're running the front diff, should I switch back?
#2154
...actually one little thing that wasn't perfect was the round blue alloy cups for the steering bell crank post bearings fit into the actual chassis and the small top brace. They were not a tight fit so I just stuck some sticky tap on them and pressed them into the chassis and brace and cut away the excess tape!!!
#2155
Cookie how come you don't run the main drive belt tensioner?
I've nearly finished my servo/esc swap knocked off 90g just by shortening wires and losing the servo mounting plate. Just trying to figure out how to route the transponder and motor fan wires. Doing a wire mesh job too, will post a pic when it's done.
Also I'm only running 21.5 blinky, I run medium stabiliser arms and HPI silver springs all round. Whats the benefit of having stiffer springs? I though softing would equal more grip.
One more thing, I've running the fixed front axle, was originally running the diff but read that a locked one was quicker. Noticed you're running the front diff, should I switch back?
I've nearly finished my servo/esc swap knocked off 90g just by shortening wires and losing the servo mounting plate. Just trying to figure out how to route the transponder and motor fan wires. Doing a wire mesh job too, will post a pic when it's done.
Also I'm only running 21.5 blinky, I run medium stabiliser arms and HPI silver springs all round. Whats the benefit of having stiffer springs? I though softing would equal more grip.
One more thing, I've running the fixed front axle, was originally running the diff but read that a locked one was quicker. Noticed you're running the front diff, should I switch back?
Initially it was laziness, getting ready the night before a titles event! But I realised the belt was tight enough without it, so left it off! An older belt may need it but I usually change the belt if that's the case.
My understanding (anyone please correct me!) is that the softer spring will allow more weight transfer and hence allow the car to generate more grip on the chassis corner/end of the softer spring. But if the track is already providing good grip then stiffening the spring rates will result in better corner speed overall.
So what I do is increase spring rate until the car just doesn't have enough grip to be stable and drivable, and then go back one rate.
Also harder springs will be less forgiving on bumps
Most people these days run a spool as it's light, low maintenance, allows hard breaking and accelerates well off a corner.
Why I run a gear diff is for the smoothness and predictability (and it came with the kit!) I've never liked the feel of the spool, so I like the gear diff, which is a good compromise between spool and ball diff in terms of maintenance, braking, accelerating and smooth cornering
Worth trying it, if you still have one, then decide which you like better.
Last edited by Cookie; 02-03-2013 at 12:37 AM.
#2156
#2157
Man mine looks awful compared to that You're racing at TFTR next weekend yeah? I'll have to steal you for 5mins so you can give me some tips on how to sort out my messy servo/transponder/motor fan cables!
#2158
Haha!
Yeah I'll be there, for sure no worries anytime...
Yeah I'll be there, for sure no worries anytime...
#2159
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Hey I just created this spreadsheet of all Tamiya Factory upgrades according to their RC Support system. I figured other could use it as well: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/4964635/TA06...0-%20Copy.xlsx
#2160
what is better for this car, running it in ifs setup ot standard setup, I am looking into purchasing one of these needed some info