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Old 11-02-2003, 02:30 PM   #1201
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Cheack again if you have assembly the diff right.. and check if the diff will loose when you spin the wheel of one side. If so, check the trust bearing, apply more grease on it.
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Old 11-02-2003, 03:15 PM   #1202
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tao3 let us know how it works for you. Interested to see how it compares to the other cars out on the market.
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Old 11-03-2003, 07:10 AM   #1203
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Iíve run all of the diff outdrives that rclab has produced, and none of them have seen much loostening. The early designs just used a plastic washer for adjusting the compression, and they were very sensitive to adjust, and hold their setting as the rings wore in. Now, with the type b design, itís not so much a problem as this design uses a spring to compress the assembly. With this the assembly will hold itís setting much easier as the compression is spread out over about two turns of the diff screw versus <1/4 turn of the old.

For the aluminum outdrives, make sure you are using the shorter screw in the backside of the assembly to lock down on the longer screw. You can use threadlock for added protection

For the older plastic (xpress style) outdrives donít need anything. The screw is tight enough in the plastic that it wonít move. If the threads are worn enough, you may want to use ca, but you wonít get too many more uses out of them as the ca will gunk up the threads and just reem out the hole when you try to remove the screw the next time you rebuild.

And for the new type b outdrives use a locknut. As long as the locknut is fresh, you shouldnít have a problem. Again, you can use threadlock for added protection. I have broken the rather small 2mm screw though.

Hope this helps. Of course, all of this assumes that you have properly installed the thrust assembly.

Lata
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Old 11-10-2003, 02:26 PM   #1204
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Hi All,

any of you guys can tell me why I should trade in my Assassin for an RClab 7-7 ??
cannot get the corally really right, and I seem not to be the only one, so I was thinking about trading it in for a HPI Pro4, untill the RClab7-7 suggestion came up.

any ideas or comparison known about this ?
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Old 11-11-2003, 06:52 AM   #1205
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Unhappy Getting Out!

I have decided to move on and am selling my fleet of RCLab sedans and all my parts. Check the For Sale area for more info.
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Old 11-11-2003, 07:24 AM   #1206
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Arrow lab car

my likes:

it is one of the pretiest cars around, but so is the assasin. the seven is very durable if you use the right combinations. rclab is continually producing revisions to the chassis and parts every few months, which is not very common to other manufacturers. also, johnny at rclabhk is a very nice guy and he is doing what it takes to make a competitive car. and that is getting feedback from his test drivers. unfortunately, most of these drivers are asphalt racers, so i think the car must still see some new developements if it is to hang with the xrays, tc3's, and losi's indoors.

from a performance view:

well, to give you a good opinion, i would like to know what application are using the assasin for. carpet?? asphalt. i have used this car on ozite with foams only. while the car has been ok in the past, i am, after a year or so, noticing it's deficiencies. i am still in the process of determining whether or not i can tune around them to get a car that will be very consistent. i am skeptical that this will happen as my preliminary thoughts are leaning toward the weight distrubution as a result of the unorthodox layout. but don't take this for fact. it's just a hypothesis at this point.

i too am curious about the pro4 as hpi typically builds cars that will hold up against the boards. (who touches the boards?) but right now there is only one car with five shafts that seems to consistently rip on the rug. yes, they are plentiful, but in an effort to better analyze the inadequacies of my lab car, i have picked up the associated car. despite it's aggressiveness, i drive more consistently, and much quicker.

our track has seen evoIII's, yok sd's, and a baracuda. and none of them have showed any more promise on the rug than the top belt cars. some worse. will the pro4 have the missing link?

i love to see anyone pickup a lab car. i like the car. it's quality, it's fairly original, it's rare almost anywhere you go, and parts are cheap. but judging by lap times, it's one among many. i am still thinking that the car could use some design input from carpet drivers. like me!

good luck. the lab car is tons of fun, and it's always nice keeping the little guys afloat.

let us know how it turns out. i know i'll give you all the help i can, even if only from a theory standpoint.
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Old 11-11-2003, 07:55 AM   #1207
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Default rclab or assassin

thx a lot for yr opinion !

being the owner of 2 Assassins (1 for my son), it is quite frustrating being not able to get a good setup for carpet on rubber tyres, with one belt = direct drive, stock.
Just bought it at the end of the summer, I had only 1 change to get it on an asphalt track, which resulted in 3rd A finals. quite good, much better even compared with my old C4.1 corally. but now in wintertime i'm getting a bit down.
So all kinds of thoughts cross my mind, I suppose best way is not to jump into conclusions and getting good info everywhere, as on this forum.
Also, the Assassins are very expensive (also the parts), and difficult to sell second-hand. They are also still developing new parts , the input/support from the factory itself is not really outstanding, though.
Shortly, I will have the change to test an RClab7-6 all day on a carpet track, and I will surely do this to get the feeling of it.
I will keep you posted
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Old 11-11-2003, 08:05 AM   #1208
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Default RCLab for carpet with rubber tires

I've only ever run my RCLab indoors on a carpet track with rubber tires. Here is my setup that I use to place in my club's A-main all the time in stock sedan.

Front:
-Sorex 24R rubber with medium inserts
-40wt shock oil / green springs
-Stock carriers and C-hubs with Active Camber Action
-Camber links moved to bolt on the front bulkhead where upper deck attaches
-5mm ground clearance

Rear:
-Sorex 24R rubber with soft or medium/soft inserts
-30wt oil / pink springs
-Blue 3 degree aluminum carriers
-Camber links moved to bolt on rear bulkhead where upper deck attaches
5mm ground clearance
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Old 11-11-2003, 12:17 PM   #1209
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SteveM, that's quite a drastic change... what are you moving on to?
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Old 11-11-2003, 12:56 PM   #1210
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I'm not quite sure.
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Old 11-11-2003, 01:11 PM   #1211
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steve,

post the rest of your setup if it's not too much trouble.

who's oil?
what pistons?
who's springs?
roll center options (hub pin mounting)?
camber?
all your mounting positions?
droop?
diff tension/compression?
one way??? on carpet?

let us know. i'm trying to make generalizations about working setups with this car.

any chicanes in the track? high castor kills my car in the switchbacks. yours?
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Old 11-11-2003, 01:31 PM   #1212
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-Losi oil in all shocks
-Kit pistons (special type with tapered holes)
-RCLab springs
-Blue rear option hubs with the pin in lowest bottom hole and upper camber link in middle position.
-Front C-bubs have pin in lower holes.
-Droop screws as per the instructions (not sure where that puts the droop settings)
-rear shocks in middle position on bottom arms / second hole inward from body post on rear shock towers
-front shocks in middle hole on bottom arms / middle hole on front shock tower
-front one-way (I went faster than with dual diffs)
-rear diff is the white plastic type part#7S-500 set loose enough to spin wheels. Like you'd use on a pan car
-optional belts and pulleys with an additional front belt tensioner
-128/42 gearing using 64P gears
-P2K motor with 767 brushes, red & green springs
-only ever run on ozite type carpet
-track is relatively small with lots of 180 switchback type turns
-low castor makes the car twitchy but faster if you can control it


Quote:
Originally posted by seaball
steve,

post the rest of your setup if it's not too much trouble.

who's oil?
what pistons?
who's springs?
roll center options (hub pin mounting)?
camber?
all your mounting positions?
droop?
diff tension/compression?
one way??? on carpet?

let us know. i'm trying to make generalizations about working setups with this car.

any chicanes in the track? high castor kills my car in the switchbacks. yours?
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Old 11-11-2003, 04:50 PM   #1213
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Finally got car setup...been busy with work...this car is HOOKED! Its got soo much steering too! I'm currently running stock springs, 2 hole piston, 50w up front, and 40w in rear. Sorex 24R all around on carpet track. 5mm clearance all around...this thing is too cool! I would suggest everyone race these things! They totally rock! I won't be racing until next week but I'll keep you posted on my first outing. I did test it out and broke the stock stick pack holder (I'm going to be racing in the 23T Supersport class and stock class this year-have to use stick pack for super sport class). Seems the material for the stick pack holder is more brittle than I would have liked but other than that, this car is HOOKED! I'm going to be replacing my battery holder with one from a Tamiya TA04. Tamiya plastics are very durable so I should be okay though. I will post pics soon of my car!
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Old 11-11-2003, 05:01 PM   #1214
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Hello to all,

wow..SteveM,what are you looking at now?
Seaball....you should be getting my little package soon.It's on route.

Here's just a few of the most recent pics I got from the last race.It's the Beta Gt3 Chassis.Ran the car on foams for the Big Chill race.





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Old 11-11-2003, 09:10 PM   #1215
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Nice pics. I think the car would do better if they had a US distributor, a fairly big name driver, or some more advertising. Touring car market is a tough market with all the new cars coming out every few weeks.
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