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Old 10-22-2003, 12:20 AM   #1171
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Could these arm supports be the culprit?

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Old 10-22-2003, 02:51 AM   #1172
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Hi there,

I have contacted the factory and they are going to check out if there are any problem on the car. If the arm block was really defected, I'll see what can be work on it. I'll cointact you within few days.
Please sent me more photo like the bottom view after installed the arm blocks or else.
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Old 10-22-2003, 06:44 AM   #1173
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man that sucks. i've had a problem with my 6.0's front hingepins being toed out. actually just the right side. it may have been the chassis, and it wasn't to this magnitude. hopefully rclab can help you get the car race ready.

i've got some 6.0 rear combined bulkhead/hingepin mounts laying around. let me know if you need them so that you can race. i'll express them to you.
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Old 10-22-2003, 08:18 AM   #1174
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I can't believe what I am seeing here.

Firstly, my understanding is that the factory have rectified your problem already, so it would be good if you were to confirm this rather than just leave the thread hanging.

Secondly, and of more concern is the way you seem to be building your car?

The 7-7 hinge pin blocks (they are not the bulkheads) are attached to the chassis AFTER the main bulkheads have been installed. The bulkhead ensures that the hinge pin blocks sit square and are correctly aligned. Your picture shows that you have only got the hinge pin blocks installed! Why? Also you do not have the hinge pin links installed, which also ensure the hinge pins are correctly aligned????

If you have done as stated above then it can only be that you have a defective set of hinge pin blocks, which since they are moulded, I find very hard to accept since the moulds don't change like that.

In future, rather than making wild comments, why not ask for assistance, from the dealer you purchased it from in the first instance, and if they are unable to assist, then try one of the other distributors. You have not helped yourself by your approach, as you sent us (we did not supply the kit) an email and didn't actually state fully what you had done or provided any pictures only that you had a toe in problem at the rear and you had swapped parts around to try to correct it! I also seem to recall that you said you had switched castor blocks - to rectify rear toe? Most confusing!
I not only replied to your email, as best I could with the information provided, but I also copied your email with my response to the factory, which I have subsequently been informed that the problem had been resolved, unfortunately I was not told of what was done.

The rear toe-in is controlled by the rear hubs, the standard kit setting is 1.5deg, and the moulded hubs supplied are marked, as you correctly stated R1.5 and L1.5, which as you also correctly surmised means Left and Right. These hubs are used, as shown clearly in the manual, in both the front and the rear. When used in the rear, it is very important to place them correctly, left and right as marked. In the front it makes no difference as the mounting points used are different.

I would also point out that you are the first person I have ever heard of having a problem of this nature and can only assume that it is due in some way to your assembly technique, but if you still need help just email me and I will assist all I can as long as you provide enough detail for us to help you.
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Old 10-22-2003, 10:09 AM   #1175
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The reason why i only showed the blocks and arms on the car without bulkhead is because that's the EIGHTH time i took them apart to be reinstalled...I put the car together according to instructions six times (leaving the 2mm space between the blocks and chassis until rear bulkhead was installed). I also left all the other parts of the chassis loose until everything was finalized and then I went through and tightened motor mount and upper decks on a flat surface. The pics that I posted were only to show where the fault possibly was. Here's couple more pics of the car after I reinstalled everything for the Tenth time...I've built RC cars for 15 years but this ones got me...

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Old 10-22-2003, 10:10 AM   #1176
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another pic...examine closely and you will see that there is way too much toe in on right side of rear...

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Old 10-22-2003, 10:16 AM   #1177
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Note the extreme angle of the upper arms on the rear right...you can clearly see that the sweep is clearly different...I was questioning my building tactics but after rebuilding it ten times and going through instructions a million times, I know there is something wrong with a part. Don't get me wrong...I love RClab cars but if you spent money on a product, you want it to work!

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Old 10-22-2003, 10:20 AM   #1178
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Modeltech, I have contacted RClab in Hong Kong and they are looking into it too...I sent them some photos so hopefully they can help me out...I didn't mean to offend RClab or anything...I was just so frustrated because I wanted to race this weekend...Even with this, I'm still going to try to race RClab cars...just want to get on the track....
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Old 10-22-2003, 10:50 AM   #1179
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No offence taken I can assure you, just want to try and help you sort this out.

Can you measure the wheelbase left and right please.
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Old 10-22-2003, 07:10 PM   #1180
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I'm currently at work but I will post measurements as soon as I get home...
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Old 10-22-2003, 09:31 PM   #1181
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MODELTECH! your suggestion shows that one side has a longer wheelbase than the other! I measured it today and the right side is at 256mm while the left side is 260mm (I measured middle of rear hub to the middle of the front hub)...hmm..wow do I rectify the problem though?...RClab in Hong Kong has not contacted me since I've sent photos...hope they can help me...here's another real clear pic of my problem..

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Old 10-23-2003, 12:12 AM   #1182
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Well...to conclude this ordeal, RCLab in Hong Kong has decided to send me a new chassis. I really hope this solves my problem though. I measured the chassis holes myself and they all seemed pretty close but I guess a shop ruler is no guarantee. A chassis hole that is a milimeter off could throw the whole suspension alignment out of whack. I just wanted to give RClab a GREAT ROUND OF APPLAUSE and PRAISE for such wonderful and courteous customer service (thank you Debby NG). Now I know they are a company I can count on! Kudos to Modeltech for the follow up too! Again people...BUY RCLAB! You won't regret it! Awesome cars and Awesome people too!
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Old 10-23-2003, 12:20 AM   #1183
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Anyone know why speedtechrc.com isn't going to carry labtech anymore?
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Old 10-23-2003, 01:13 AM   #1184
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TAO3..glad to see this problem is resolved.I had built this car so many times from bone stk plastic to the full blown decked out Lap and not run into this problem of yours.I did switched the suspension pivot blocks by mistake and had the whole back end pretty messed up. but it's all good when we figure it out at the end.By now you are an expert in building this car after so many trys.. good luck racing.Show us some pics of your ride at the track.

AWOLsoldier....it's a tough question to answer,as I may be wrong and not the fella to answer..I figure that they didn't get where they wanted it to go and dropped the line.I wished that they didn't as it's so central for North America to get the products.
I admired Modeltech,they put in lots of hard work into the car and promote it,see where they are now..success!!!.. 3 cheers to Mike.

Another Co.hard at work is My RCLAB in Malaysia.They too are trying to follow the success.In time I have no doubt that they can be as good as anyone.It's all abt hard work...
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Last edited by chrisman; 10-23-2003 at 02:14 PM.
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Old 10-23-2003, 02:25 AM   #1185
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Default rclab is different!

Hi People Who loves the labrats,

First and foremost :

The Golden Rules of Set-up!

Always, always, always! Run your car in the exact kit set-up to start with.

This is a proven set-up, that will work on all surfaces with all tyres in all conditions. It will not be the fastest, but it will work and the car will be easy to drive. If you run this configuration and you car is not totally balanced and without vices then there is something wrong with your build!

You need to check your shocks are correctly set-up, and have the exact same lengths side to side. That your ride height it set-up correctly with at least 0.5mm higher at the rear. That your droop screws are correctly adjusted. And finally that all your suspension and steering parts turn and move freely under their own weight.
If not, then correct them and you will find that the car handles perfectly (and better than most if not all) in this kit_ mode.
After a couple of runs to get used to the car you can then start dialling in the car to your personal driving requirements, the track, the tyres and the surface. Only make one change at a time as this car will respond to adjustments and you will notice the difference. If you get lost in your adjustments - go back to kit as the proven starting point. ~ by rclab UK

From the experienced labrat runners:

- be prepared not to let the knowledge of your former 4WD Rear Motor Mount Car interfere with your new rclab
- many drivers have to relearn the whole 4WD chassis because of rclab Mid Mount Motor Design
- Open your minds and accept new technology
- rclab dares to lead and doesn't follow the trends
- there are a reason why it's Mid Mount Motor

Last edited by coolikeice; 10-23-2003 at 06:56 AM.
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