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Old 09-09-2003, 03:06 PM   #1126
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I don't know why the "orange" shown on the lab's web like gold... I've seen some proto type on the orange anodize.. it is a pinion gear.... really orange... I'll see if some photo of the gear left...
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Old 09-21-2003, 08:29 PM   #1127
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Default rclab

how much for that alumn. differential for Rclab?
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Old 09-22-2003, 10:19 PM   #1128
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Kreator,

How's it goes....??.. My racing scene is totally different from the days when I was there.hee!!hee!!...got any new pics?...I loved MY RCLAb Site .Awesome design from Coolikeice...I think thats how it's spelt..haa!!haa!!..

As for the pricing on what you want..you should contact Coolikeice.It be closer for you to get the part...makes more sense.Unless it's a killer deal off the net... Anyways,keep on racing.We be going indoors pretty soon as weather here is getting cooler and wet.Fall is here unlike you guys there have nice hot days.Missed the old days.... CYa.
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Old 09-22-2003, 10:37 PM   #1129
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Default rclab race day

hey chrisman, you can view some lovely racing pictures from last week at http://forum.rclabmodify.com . its was great, everyone had fun.

For the pricing? im just curious about the alumn. diff. for RClab.
Do Rclab have alumn diff ? Ha ha becoz of the heat , all diff melted front and rear. hahahaha!!!!!

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Old 09-22-2003, 11:48 PM   #1130
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Default Alum Diff.

The RClad did have the alum. diff. check my post on 8-9-2003, with 3 photo. The last one taking the back view of the GT3, the diff was made by alum.... and light weight CVD as well...
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Old 09-23-2003, 04:54 AM   #1131
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Default alum diff

is this all alum diff,>?
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Old 09-23-2003, 06:50 AM   #1132
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yeah, that's it. they are nice, but i find that the plastic is quieter and will actually wear less. just like in the pic, it's a good idea to use the blades with the aluminum outdrives as a metal to metal buffer. the best part about the aluminum drives is how true they run. my acetal outdrives are not aligned and this causes vibration and a bit of friction. but they are light and quiet.

by the way, i will sell you two complete new diffs assembled and machined out for the blades if you are interested. they will be cheap as well. i had some extra for when i ran them, but now i use the acetal outdrives, so i haven't a use for them right now.

lmk.

chrisman,

good to hear you're moving onto the rug. any chance you'll make the trip in to run the cleveland at the end of november? we ran our first weekend of the winter season yesterday. the car is awesome right now. it's dead on at 50 oz with gp's and the plastic cell cushions! now i can give greater focus to driving for the coming weeks or months. i've got a few 10ths to make up before the cleveland and i'll be ecstatic.

lata fellas.


good to see some action here.
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Old 09-23-2003, 07:01 AM   #1133
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Default alumn diff

seaball, kinda interseted with ur alumn diff. Is it for the Rclab?
Can i seee them. and how much plus shipping .
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Old 09-23-2003, 07:46 AM   #1134
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yeah, they're for the lab car. they are exactly like in the picture. i lost my digi camera a while back, so i can't snap pics of them. there isn't much to them. i actually have four sets, but i want to keep two just in case i fell the need to go back. the point is this. i've decided to sell you my used sets instead. three are perfect, but one has some marks on the outside from the cvd that fell out in a crash and it took ten or twenty feet on the track for me to recognize that something was amiss. it just cosmetic, and you could likely file it off or turn it in a lathe and dress it up.

it think you'll be happy with them.

i'm asking 30 shipped, but someone pm'd me minutes after i posted, and were dealing now. i'll let you know whattup.
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Old 09-23-2003, 07:56 AM   #1135
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by the way, these were machined on a mill, not a dremel deal or anything else that would scare you off. i ran them for a while, and then switched to delrin for weight, wear, and backlash issues. now i run ae cvd's (plastic) and they are longer and protrude so far into the outdrive, that i can't fit blades anyway. no worries, that's why i have delrin!

lata.

man, i'f only the delrin/acetal were machined true instead of moulded. can you hear me rclab hong kong.
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Old 09-23-2003, 09:42 AM   #1136
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If the acetal outdrive have to be machine true... the price will be skyhigh.... as high as you'll never think about buying a RClab option again....
but the lab seems haven't ever produce derlin outdrive....
anyway, after alot of test, the allum outdrive is the best preformance for race....
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Old 09-23-2003, 10:41 AM   #1137
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i do believe delrin is a tradename for the acetyl poylmer, or some isotope/isomer of it. i use the terms rather interchangeably as i've seen that done in other industries.

i wont' disagree that the aluminum is better, but i personally prefer the acetyl because it won't wear as quickly, is quieter, is lighter, and has a better frictional properties. the huge tradeoff right now is lack of precision. i would likely pay for the machined delrin, as the aluminum ones are machined, and the cost differential couldn't be too bad considering the small amount of material involved.

uh oh, i see i can get delrin rods from mcmaster-carr. watch out local machinists!

later guys. keep this thread moving. the seven is a great car and rclab is always developing ways to help us go faster. can't say that about many of the competitors out there.
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Old 09-23-2003, 11:40 AM   #1138
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The aluminum alloy diff joints are very nice but they do wear unless you use the blades on the CVD's. The problem with using the blades is you need to machine the aluminum diff joints to accept the blades and for me that is a problem.

My solution was to install the white plastic diff joints, part #7S-500. I had to order mine from the UK, but they work very well, are super light and don't show wear like the alloy ones.

I did notice that the RCLab uses the same size main bearing as my Yokomo did and just eye balling things, it looks like a diff from my Yokomo would drop into place on my RCLab. In fact, I have used the diff bolt and the tension spring from my Yok in the RCLab without any problems.

The diff rings for the alloy as well as the white plastic diff joints I use are identical to the Associated RC10 type as used in their pan cars. These are available everywhere and are inexpensive.

The new Type B diff joints are black and there is a notice on the UK web pages about some issues with them. I don't have any of these types so have no opinion to offer.

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Old 09-23-2003, 11:43 AM   #1139
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One more thing.....the white diff joints (#7S-500) look to be identical to the ones that were used on my Mike Swauger Xpress Pro sedan. It's a dead ringer for the Xpress part and probably is the same piece.

Not that this helps any as there is zero support for Xpress here.
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Old 09-23-2003, 11:47 AM   #1140
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That white diff joint are not be able to find in the lab anymore, that was something stopped production. The black diff joint are made by plastic, light weight but the diff will not as smooth as the allum joint. We use C blade for the allum joint, and we made some modify by hand. Since the C blade comes later then the allum joint, so the diff joint was not campatible with the c blade. but I think the GT3 comes later will have a diff joint that can be compatible witht hte c blade...
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